Its all good.You arent rambling,you are giving me good info for my build.I accept all info that you are willing to share.Thanks.
Built engine time.
- Thread starter 2011 gtcs
- Start date
Unfortunately I haven't, it's sitting in my spare room waiting for paint. I've been so focused on getting the car dialed in I kinda forgot about it. But it should be getting painted soon.
Well at least you found out before anything bad happened. If I was building the engine I would for sure get a proper fuel system. Even though its a another 2 grand or so its still way cheaper than paying for another built motor. Had a fore on my previous GT. Top notch fuel system
It was inevitable and glad you’re doing it right as expected.
Buy once cry once buddy buy the Fore triple might be overkill.
2 of those ‘Hellcat’ Walbro 295s will actually be fine for 1000rwhp and you can upgrade to a 3rd pump easily.
Good luck
-J
Buy once cry once buddy buy the Fore triple might be overkill.
2 of those ‘Hellcat’ Walbro 295s will actually be fine for 1000rwhp and you can upgrade to a 3rd pump easily.
Good luck
-J
Agreed, Lund saw my fuel rail pressure falling off over 5,800rpms. I was still hoping my stock pumps would hold up for a little while.
So I went with triple TI Auto 285 pumps, They flow 470lph, they're the best pump fore offers for E85. I did the FC3 controller and 128mm Microglass SSD filter and -10 feed with -8 return, the 3rd pump will be on boost pressure switch. But overall the system should support everything I can throw at it, especially with the ID1300s. I just hope the installation goes smooth.
Looks good.
Make sure to test the fuel level sender.
If it gets tweaked during install your fuel gauge won’t be accurate. (One time we had the pumps out my tank was completely dry and gauge was 1/4)
-J
Make sure to test the fuel level sender.
If it gets tweaked during install your fuel gauge won’t be accurate. (One time we had the pumps out my tank was completely dry and gauge was 1/4)
-J
Thanks J, I think it should be ok, when I pulled the stock pumps out it had just under 1/2 a tank and when I put everything back together it read about the same. But definitely something I'll keep a eye on.
Crazy it's been a year since I pulled the engine out, the engine is still doing great and I have just over 1k miles on it. I did have to quieter her up a little, but I think it still sounds good. For the foreseeable future my Shelby is finished and I'm happy
you didn't sleeve the block correct? what did JDM recommend when to sleeve?
Sleeving and billet crank over 1200hp the best rule to remember.
-J
Thanks Jay, what do you think the stock block with rods are good for number wise at the wheels?
Hey man, yeah when I built the engine I told JDM my goal was 900 to 1000whp, I'm obviously not trying to be the fastest GT500 in the country lol. But JDM told me my engine would be more than safe and live a long life at my desired power level with there Manley rods and piston kit
@biminiLX is spot on with anything over 1,100 to 1200whp you'll want to sleeve the block and do a billet crank. But I can tell you a 900whp GT500 is a lot on the street
ok so perfect. I know what my goals will be once i decide to buy the same kit. I would probably just drive my motor to them lol
No more than 800- 850 max whp and keep those revs under 5800.
You didnt sleeve your block when you did the rebuild @2011 gtcs? If not, did JDM say that you didnt need to?
I don’t want to answer for Steve but my experience is that a USED 5.8 block must be checked very carefully if you’re going to rebuild.
I used a new 5.8 bought thru JDM as the basis of my JDM 5.8 short block. Mine is stil going strong after 4yrs, currently at 1110rwhp SAE. I check an oil analysis twice a year with the last in November ‘21 and still good.
My tuner built my used block for his personal vehicle after checking the cylinder bore spec (not ‘out of round’) and coating thickness. His survived lots of street abuse finally at 1000rwhp and close to 1100rwhp on spray. Car was sold and still going strong from what we know.
A local friend rebuilt his used 5.8 block after being told it was good without sleeving and had failure during break in ultimately requiring a second rebuild hook with sleeving. Now a badass sleeved and ported longblock that’s going to make big power.
My point would be unless you’re starting with new block or committed to sleeving, you won’t know if you can get away without sleeving until you inspect and measure.
-J
I used a new 5.8 bought thru JDM as the basis of my JDM 5.8 short block. Mine is stil going strong after 4yrs, currently at 1110rwhp SAE. I check an oil analysis twice a year with the last in November ‘21 and still good.
My tuner built my used block for his personal vehicle after checking the cylinder bore spec (not ‘out of round’) and coating thickness. His survived lots of street abuse finally at 1000rwhp and close to 1100rwhp on spray. Car was sold and still going strong from what we know.
A local friend rebuilt his used 5.8 block after being told it was good without sleeving and had failure during break in ultimately requiring a second rebuild hook with sleeving. Now a badass sleeved and ported longblock that’s going to make big power.
My point would be unless you’re starting with new block or committed to sleeving, you won’t know if you can get away without sleeving until you inspect and measure.
-J
How close are you to them? I can tell it was stupid expensive to ship my engine from AZ to NJ. Whenever you're getting ready to do your build I'd call and pay for your engine parts before pulling your engine, it took them almost 5 months to get my cams.
Correct, my engine only had 12k when I pulled it out and everything was in perfect condition. JDM said for my power goal (900 to 1000whp) it wasn't necessary to sleeve the block. They have pushed the aluminum 5.4/5.8s to 1,100whp and revved them to 8k rpms with the factory plasma coating with no issues. It's still trippy reving my engine to 7k now lol.
Side note, I'm curious what Shelby American does when they build the Shelby1000 engine, I'd imagine they sleeve the block.
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