Built or BOUGHT??..

[ram150]

This may be a dumb question BUT I’m gonna ask it anyway. hahaha. What is the difference/ what is better/ ?? . Or cheaper? Buying rods and pistons and anything else needed for my motor OR just buying a built short block?? Really just ranting/ thinking out loud. Obviously short block I just add everything leftover from my engine minus what the short block is built with.

On the other hand just buy pistons, rods, and put them in my engine.. really conflicted I guess, probably when the time comes I shouldn’t skimp out and just get a built short block. Anybody’s experiences, thoughts?? @biminiLX ?

 

[PaxtonShelby]

You’d have less downtime if you sold the running motor out of your car...and dropped a built motor in. Buyer could have a chance to see the motor run before buying. You shell out more $$ up front for a complete built motor, but in the end the $$ might be close.

 

[ram150]

Wasn’t even thinking about selling the engine when I wrote this haha. That makes sense though. What is the going rate for one ?

 

[PaxtonShelby]

Wasn’t even thinking about selling the engine when I wrote this haha. That makes sense though. What is the going rate for one ?

I have no idea

I’m sure J will be able to help.

 

[bosscj]

You’d have less downtime if you sold the running motor out of your car...and dropped a built motor in. Buyer could have a chance to see the motor run before buying. You shell out more $$ up front for a complete built motor, but in the end the $$ might be close.

This is solid advice. Pretty much what I was gonna say

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[tones_RS3]

This may be a dumb question BUT I’m gonna ask it anyway. hahaha. What is the difference/ what is better/ ?? . Or cheaper? Buying rods and pistons and anything else needed for my motor OR just buying a built short block?? Really just ranting/ thinking out loud. Obviously short block I just add everything leftover from my engine minus what the short block is built with.
On the other hand just buy pistons, rods, and put them in my engine.. really conflicted I guess, probably when the time comes I shouldn’t skimp out and just get a built short block. Anybody’s experiences, thoughts?? @biminiLX ?

Awesome post @ram150!
I'm constantly thinking of doing this with my car as well. (While I was working out today, actually.)
Buying all new and stronger rods/pistons/etc, and just go nuts with the build, or just buy a new shortblock. The thing that bothers me is that the current block will hold up, not the internals. (Unless, of course you go close to/over 4 digits in HP/TQ. The cylinder walls would be the downfall.)

 

[ram150]

Awesome post @ram150!
I'm constantly thinking of doing this with my car as well. (While I was working out today, actually.)
Buying all new and stronger rods/pistons/etc, and just go nuts with the build, or just buy a new shortblock. The thing that bothers me is that the current block will hold up, not the internals. (Unless, of course you go close to/over 4 digits in HP/TQ. The cylinder walls would be the downfall.)

Haha that’s awesome! Well I figured I would ask because I’m constantly thinking about it and while I don’t plan on breaking 4 digits, I do plan on doing cams, lower pulley and eventually... E-85 haha. I say E-85 sarcastically because there’s rumors of it coming to my town hahaha. I’m sure that will never happen, but gotta be prepared. Obviously updating the fuel system as well.

 

[tones_RS3]

Haha that’s awesome! Well I figured I would ask because I’m constantly thinking about it and while I don’t plan on breaking 4 digits, I do plan on doing cams, lower pulley and eventually... E-85 haha. I say E-85 sarcastically because there’s rumors of it coming to my town hahaha. I’m sure that will never happen, but gotta be prepared. Obviously updating the fuel system as well.

That's awesome man. I'm always thinking about doing this. No E85 out here either which sucks.
I'm thinking it would cost about the same between a new good built shortblock and updating the current block with new rods/pistons and all the labor. Both engines have to come out and be put together and tested either way.
Waiting to hear some more educated posts though.

 

[ram150]

[QUOTE="tones_RS3, post: 15864288, member: 177712"

Waiting to hear some more educated posts though.[/QUOTE]

Hahahaha same here.

 

[RBB]

I just got done with a build....ended up buying a built 5.8 short block from JDM Engineering and keeping my stocker as a spare. Can’t say enough good things about them, so if you do decide to go that route put them on your short list.

As others have said, it’s a little more expensive to buy a built block rather than build your existing block. Less so for you since you’ve got an iron block and selling your stock block will make the difference negligible. So really it’s just a matter of would you rather save a few bucks, or have less down time? The quality of the engine should be exactly the same either way assuming you’re going with a reputable shop.

Also, keep in mind that you’re going to have quite a bit of down time either way you go. Even if you buy a preassembled short block you’re still down for the engine pull, tear down, reassembling your long block with your heads and timing components, and reinstalling the engine.

Last thing I’ll say is either way you decide to go take the opportunity to beef up some of your stock timing components and OPGs even if you don’t go with aftermarket cams. Billet crankshaft sprocket, billet secondary sprockets and HD chains, upgraded passenger side tensioner, and billet OPGs are a must.

 

[ram150]

Thanks for the good info @RBB . I’ve actually checked out JDM engineering a few times haha. I will most likely go with them and upgrade everything, then add aftermarket cams.

 

[Recon]

I’m in a slightly similar boat, I purchased a NOS 3V Aluminator block with a Roush P-51 rotating assembly, it’s actually a P-51 shortblock. Anyway my approach will certainly not be the cheapest method but it is one you may consider. I enjoy my little 427R a great deal and while I’m building another engine for it I can still drive the car. Once my built engine is complete and ready to be swapped; that can happen in a short amount of time. So the car is down for a few days then it’s time for data logging and adjusting the tune for it.
Another thing to consider is what other mods will need to be done to accommodate the power you want? Clutch, Suspension, Brakes, Cooling, etc.


Pick your poison.

 

[RBB]

Thanks for the good info @RBB . I’ve actually checked out JDM engineering a few times haha. I will most likely go with them and upgrade everything, then add aftermarket cams.

Good choice. Might as well go with their cams too. They make a lot of power and sound great as well. Give Jim @ JDM a call, he’s very knowledgeable and will get you headed down the right path based on your goals.

 

[RedVenom48]

Iron block Id build. Easy for a machine shop to hone your cylinders and set your ring end gap on the new rings. If youre building an aluminum block its a different animal because of the PTWA liners.

 

[biminiLX]

This may be a dumb question BUT I’m gonna ask it anyway. hahaha. What is the difference/ what is better/ ?? . Or cheaper? Buying rods and pistons and anything else needed for my motor OR just buying a built short block?? Really just ranting/ thinking out loud. Obviously short block I just add everything leftover from my engine minus what the short block is built with.

On the other hand just buy pistons, rods, and put them in my engine.. really conflicted I guess, probably when the time comes I shouldn’t skimp out and just get a built short block. Anybody’s experiences, thoughts?? @biminiLX ?

Well, I appreciate the shout out, and my situation was unique, but I'd say it really depends on your goals.
In your case, you have an iron block, and buying a shortblock can allow an aluminum block upgrade.
Still, if not shooting for 1000hp, you may be surprised how durable the shock shortblock can be if you respect the RPM and octane.
A big part is if you have a solid running engine, your complete shortblock is worth some money, which can offset the build while allowing less downtime.
Do you have the car put away for the winter?
Would you do any assembly yourself?
Both can be factors in the choice.
-J

 

[biminiLX]

Iron block Id build. Easy for a machine shop to hone your cylinders and set your ring end gap on the new rings. If your building an aluminum block its a different animal because of the PTWA liners.

Agreed.
A good running iron block engine can be much easier.
If you have E85 or can run decent fuel, a slight bump in compression helps power, especially off boost and with the cams.
-J

 

[Catmonkey]

Unless you have experience putting together other engines, this not one to start with. There's a bit more to the assembly process than your typical pushrod-based V-8. This is not an engine you want to get a rebuild kit and take it apart and put it back together again. Setting the ring gaps on a boosted engine, is a critical step. You might get hold of the OEM service manual and look at the procedure necessary to put the short block together. If you decide to rebuild yourself, scout for a top notch machine shop. Let them mic the crank and cylinders to see if it needs machine work. Talk to hard core racers in your area, they'll know who does quality machine work. While you're at it get a quote to have them to do the assembly.

 

[ram150]

Thanks everyone! ALL GREAT information! I’ll be using this thread once I start the process, I would like to see how far the stock block can handle with e-85 and unless I’m at the track I don’t usually rev it out past 4500 rpm, guess I been babying it hahaha.

 

[RedVenom48]

New rods and pistons youre fine to hit 7K. Id only go that high at the strip, but for strip use its fine.

Short of detonation or mechanical failure smoking a rod or piston, the factory iron blocks are stout. The alum blocks with the PTWA liners are good to about 1200, and beyond that require sleeving.

Factory cranks (produced by Kellogg)are pretty healthy to about 1200, some have hit 1500 from what I have seen. You will definitely want to add a Kinetik Crank saver stud kit if youre going with a bigger blower or plan on a 2 step.