Ok, i tried searching, but no one seems to have this problem. When my car is to the floor, after about 4800 rpms, it seems like the rpms climb REALLY slow. I changed the plugs, cleaned the MAF, and changed the fuel filter prior to me noticing this problem, so I've ruled those out. I don't know what it could be, I've gotten beat by a near stock 95 gt, and I've g-teched at 14.9, and i know both of those aren't supposed to happen. Any ideas on what to change or work on next? :shrug:
Bullitt seems like its dead up top...
- Thread starter mg02bullitt
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my car falls on its ass at about 6000 so something is wrong. Did you have the car tuned? I would bring it in and have it dyno tuned to check everything
My mods are an x pipe, catback, lowered, and short throw, so those arent it. I have never had it tuned because i didnt see a reason. i was thinking it was something minor like the mass air sensor, coils, fuel pump, or something like that maybe?
well that really doesnt need a dyno tune for those. This has me puzzled but im going to keep an eye on this thread since id like to find out what it is myself
Just a few questions?
Did you do anything prior to the downed power?
Did you reset the EEC- unplug it for 30-45 minutes?
Check the wiring to the TPS / Voltage?
What plugs did you use to replace the old ones, Bosch plugs have some issues?
Check all of your coil on plugs for cracks / spark?
It kinda sounds like you have a spark / fuel problem, could be either. I've had a similar problem when one of my coils went out, higher RPMs got me less spark, hence reduced power. I also fell for the +4 Bosch scam...my car stumbled slightly on upper RPM's, loss of power. Usually if it's a fuel problem, the CEL will immediately go on, with electrical (missing) it takes alot to go on. On any electronic ignition, the spark is reduced in the upper RPMs, with a problem, it's even worse.
Just my .02 cents
Did you do anything prior to the downed power?
Did you reset the EEC- unplug it for 30-45 minutes?
Check the wiring to the TPS / Voltage?
What plugs did you use to replace the old ones, Bosch plugs have some issues?
Check all of your coil on plugs for cracks / spark?
It kinda sounds like you have a spark / fuel problem, could be either. I've had a similar problem when one of my coils went out, higher RPMs got me less spark, hence reduced power. I also fell for the +4 Bosch scam...my car stumbled slightly on upper RPM's, loss of power. Usually if it's a fuel problem, the CEL will immediately go on, with electrical (missing) it takes alot to go on. On any electronic ignition, the spark is reduced in the upper RPMs, with a problem, it's even worse.
Just my .02 cents
I didn't do anything before this. I have never reset the EEC (might try that), how do you check the voltage to the TPS? (I'm new at this) and i did use Bosch plugs when i changed them. What would be the most likely cause? Or could it be anything?
I'll tell you about the plugs first. For some reason, Bosch plugs do not like Ford products...why, I don't know and Bosch does not know why either. A while back, I fell for the +4 concept (techy crap I guess) and my car ran like total crap. The easiest way to tell without equipment is to rev to 1500-2000 rpms + and listen / feel for misfires (it is harder to tell above that rpm range). Some are gonna say, ah it wasn't the plugs it was you...not quite, do a search of the internet and you'll see Bosch plugs are a gamble with Ford products. Some have had good results and ALOT have had bad results with Bosch. Anyhow, a quick change to Iridium plugs made the engine purr like a cat, even got rid of that Mustang idle misfire.
As far as TPS, the EEC will usually throw a code if there is something wrong. I have seen a TPS go bad and not read / send the correct voltage on acceleration and not throw a code.
Any how, heres an article for you look at FYI:http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=30
Don't forget to inspect the whole ignition system for cracks/defects...coil on plug, wires, connectors...etc...
As far as TPS, the EEC will usually throw a code if there is something wrong. I have seen a TPS go bad and not read / send the correct voltage on acceleration and not throw a code.
Any how, heres an article for you look at FYI:http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=30
Don't forget to inspect the whole ignition system for cracks/defects...coil on plug, wires, connectors...etc...
very true about plugs, for some reason my car runs like crap really on any plugs besides NGK and factory
Well, i had a slight miss at about 3000 rpms, which is why i changed the plugs, and they fixed that, so i thought they were good. My CEL is on, but i think thats because i dont have MILs. Would it be worth it to change the TPS? the engine had 115,000 on it, so i would think there could be something going bad somewhere.
I would'nt go replacing just anything until you know what's causing your problem. There are so many things that could be causing the dead spot, even a simple vacuum leak. I would still pull the CEL codes just see what other codes are lurking on top of not having 02 sensors. You can test the TPS yourself, see link above...I mentioned the TPS as voltage readings during full rotation can be off...it needs to be tested before you replace it. Pull the codes...
Maybe it is retarding timing since your CEL is on.
i would go to a garage and have them throw it on a snap on tool and see what the fuel pressure is. i had the same problem and my fuel pumps where bad.
That sounds like there is an air leak between the MAF and TB. Unmetered air=lean.
Oh crap, you're in Iowa! How far are you from the DSM area?
An air leak could cause that? Huh, i'll have to check on that. Anyway, I'm about an hour drive north of Sioux City, if that helps. And how exactly do you check the TPS voltage?
LS1PUSSOUT
Banned
you sure the gas pedal is going all the way to WOT?
Even if it wasnt going fully WOT, the power delivery would still be somewhat linear.
I'm positive the pedal is to the floor, because its fine up until that rpm range. So as of right now im going to try and reset the eec, check the tps voltage, check the coils for cracks, check the fuel pressure, have the cel codes checked, and check for air leaks. Anything else to look for?
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