Cam swapped folks, can I use these valvetrain parts with my cams?

[Bootbox]

Can I run this valve spring kit from LFP:

http://www.lightningforceperformance.com/lfp-valve-spring-component-kit-ford-54l-sohc-p-484.html

Details
Engineered Component Kit
16 High Pressure spring, 16 Titanium retainers.
32 Locks, 16 Seals & 16 Bases
Spring pressure: seat: 1.680'@ 95lbs
nose: 1.050@205lbs
coil bind: 1.050' @ 630 Lift
no machine work required.


...with my Crower stage II cams

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRO-62802-2&autoview=sku

Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,500-6,500 RPM
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 216
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 216
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 216 int./216 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 276
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 276
Advertised Duration: 276 int./276 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.581 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.581 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.581 int./0.581 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in.

 

[Bootbox]

little help?

 

[lightninmike]

Are these going in your stock heads? Are you haveing a shop install these parts or are you?

 

[Fade 2 Black]

Yes you can use them.

 

[Bootbox]

Are these going in your stock heads? Are you haveing a shop install these parts or are you?

Yeah stock heads and I think my friend and I are going to tackle it, but we're going to pull the heads rather than mess with the magnum powers spring tool.

Yes you can use them.

Cool, thanks Bob. The numbers looked like they worked but I wanted to run it by the more experienced guys to make sure.

 

[bonehead]

those spring are the same ones i used. work great! you should always upgrade spring when you do a cam that has more lift or else you risk coil bind.

 

[Fade 2 Black]

They're similar to Manley Nexteks but they have more lift rating with the same install hieght and seat pressure.

I know to each their own but damn, you'll only be a couple of hours from swapping the entire engine out at that point and if it were me I'd at least install some ported heads instead of stabbing the stockers right back on there. You may want to try replacing a spring set or two just to see how bad it is before you dive all the way in.

Either way good luck with it and let us know if you need any help. :thumbsup:

 

[bonehead]

i have a set of fully ported and polished heads with cams, springs, roller rockers, and cool misc stuff that i just took off my motor. going to 4v setup. i made 862RWHP with these heads, power wont be a problem. they flow a ton. pm me if youre interested.

 

[Bootbox]

I know to each their own but damn, you'll only be a couple of hours from swapping the entire engine out at that point and if it were me I'd at least install some ported heads instead of stabbing the stockers right back on there. You may want to try replacing a spring set or two just to see how bad it is before you dive all the way in.

Either way good luck with it and let us know if you need any help. :thumbsup:

I'm honestly very torn about the whole thing Bob. Heads are pretty much out due to lack of funds. Between the 4 link kit from ScottsElle, the coilovers and extra springs for it from Summit, the impending drag radial purchase, and the recent impulse steering stabilizer purchase, my mod fund is tapped out for a loonnnng time. I'm barely going to pull together the money for whatever special tools I need, the cam degree kit, and flywheel lockup tool.

I keep going back and forth on how to get the cams in there too.

Say hypothetically I leave the heads in while changing the springs and cams. I know that special tool from Magnum Powers will help you swap out springs with the cams still in place, but is it needed or beneficial if the heads are left on but you're doing a cam swap at the same time?

Option two (the one I'm considering most at this point) is I take the heads out and swap the valvetrain parts and cams on a bench. I won't have to worry about the valves falling or any special spring swap tools (right?) but I will have the added cost of a head swap kit (gaskets, bolts etc...) Won't this method make the installation of the valvetrain parts a breeze?

My friend (ASE mechanic) and I have a ton of experience with valve component swapping and adjusting on the Focus engine, multiple cam swaps on them over the years, tedious tappet clearance measurment and adjustment etc... I know it's not directly related to the 5.4 platform but we have some experience inside heads and access to a full range of air tools etc... I figure we can bang it out in a weekend however we wind up doing it.

Assuming ported heads are out of the question, what's the best way for me to get my new cams/springs in there? One of the two choices above? Some other combination of tools/methods I didn't think of?

 

[bonehead]

I'm honestly very torn about the whole thing Bob. Heads are pretty much out due to lack of funds. Between the 4 link kit from ScottsElle, the coilovers and extra springs for it from Summit, the impending drag radial purchase, and the recent impulse steering stabilizer purchase, my mod fund is tapped out for a loonnnng time. I'm barely going to pull together the money for whatever special tools I need, the cam degree kit, and flywheel lockup tool.

I keep going back and forth on how to get the cams in there too.

Say hypothetically I leave the heads in while changing the springs and cams. I know that special tool from Magnum Powers will help you swap out springs with the cams still in place, but is it needed or beneficial if the heads are left on but you're doing a cam swap at the same time?

Option two (the one I'm considering most at this point) is I take the heads out and swap the valvetrain parts and cams on a bench. I won't have to worry about the valves falling or any special spring swap tools (right?) but I will have the added cost of a head swap kit (gaskets, bolts etc...) Won't this method make the installation of the valvetrain parts a breeze?

My friend (ASE mechanic) and I have a ton of experience with valve component swapping and adjusting on the Focus engine, multiple cam swaps on them over the years, tedious tappet clearance measurment and adjustment etc... I know it's not directly related to the 5.4 platform but we have some experience inside heads and access to a full range of air tools etc... I figure we can bang it out in a weekend however we wind up doing it.

Assuming ported heads are out of the question, what's the best way for me to get my new cams/springs in there? One of the two choices above? Some other combination of tools/methods I didn't think of?

you can do it with the heads on the truck..... i would give yourself some more time than a weekend. as long as you do one cylinder at a time. they make a tool that threads into the spark plug hole with an airchuck on the end so you can pressurize the cylinder and keep the valve seated to the head. one of the advantages of jerking the heads out is you can put head studs in while youre at it.

 

[bda1855]

Yes you can use them.

I got my springs from Bob so im guessing if he says Coo then they are Coo... LOL

Thanks again for those Mod Max Springs Bob! 6K miles and no issues yet!

Gotta degree the cams this weekend cause with the properly working tranny something is off with the cam timing...

 

[Fade 2 Black]

Easiest? Pulling the heads. Most efficient/cost effective? Swapping cams/springs in situ. As stated do one at a time, with the proper tools and a magnet to catch the keepers, some patience and plenty of allotted time it will most likely go better than you think.

IDK what the stock replacement bolts run but if you're interested I still have a set of head studs to sell. They have 5K on them, nothing wrong at all, $160 shipped and they're all yours.

In all actuality you'd come out much easier taking the cab off, you could swap the springs out in no time that way, what dreams may come.

 

[lightninmike]

Oh shit if you know the Focus valvetrain this should be a peice of cake for you. What is gona suck is being bent over the fenders all friggin day. I understand about the added cost of pulling them off with new head bolts/studs and head gaskets but i think it would be a lot easier and you could look into the cylinder and see how things are going in there