I purchased a Canton oil pan and windage tray for my terminator. The install is proving to be a pain in the you-know-where. I am having trouble removing the stock pan due to clearance issues. I even tried unbolting the motor mounts and raising the engine in a vain attempt to get the pan off. So far no dice. Is there a way to do this pan swap without removing the K-member or transmission and clutch? :bash: Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Canton Oil Pan and Windage Tray
- Thread starter Cobra Charlie
- Start date
Not to worry. Job done.
Well, Maybe The Job It Not So Done
First, for reference, I resorted to removing the K-member to get the pan off. It wasn't really to bad, plus it gave me an oportunity to inspect and clean. I used the online Maximum Motorsports instructions for replacing the K-member as a guide.
Second, after hoping I was done with the install, I started thinking about how the pick up tube was resting solidly against the windage tray. With the possible relative motion of parts against parts being what they are, I became concerned that I might eventually wear a hole in the tube and lose oil pressure. I took the pan off again and marked the windage tray, with a black felt tip, everywhere the pick up tube touched. I took the tray to a guy who moved (welded) two of the little cross braces so that they will not touch the tube any more. I'll probably reinstall the tray on Friday night.
Third, I plan on using two pan gaskets instead of siliconing the tray to the block. When I removed the tray to take it to be modified, I found that some of the silicon had spread itself pretty thin, especially at the front and back of the engine. I am concerned that using silicon in this application would be a leak waiting to happen.
Fourth, using a suggestion from another thread, I will use some modeling clay to determine the clearance of the end of the pick up tube from the bottom of the pan. Then, as necessary, use a longer bolt and washers, spacers, etc to adjust the distance to about 1/4 inch.
This is mod is very time consuming. If anyone is considering installing a new pan or windage tray, my recommendation is to wait until you have a reason to pull or lift the engine for any other work that you might be doing.
First, for reference, I resorted to removing the K-member to get the pan off. It wasn't really to bad, plus it gave me an oportunity to inspect and clean. I used the online Maximum Motorsports instructions for replacing the K-member as a guide.
Second, after hoping I was done with the install, I started thinking about how the pick up tube was resting solidly against the windage tray. With the possible relative motion of parts against parts being what they are, I became concerned that I might eventually wear a hole in the tube and lose oil pressure. I took the pan off again and marked the windage tray, with a black felt tip, everywhere the pick up tube touched. I took the tray to a guy who moved (welded) two of the little cross braces so that they will not touch the tube any more. I'll probably reinstall the tray on Friday night.
Third, I plan on using two pan gaskets instead of siliconing the tray to the block. When I removed the tray to take it to be modified, I found that some of the silicon had spread itself pretty thin, especially at the front and back of the engine. I am concerned that using silicon in this application would be a leak waiting to happen.
Fourth, using a suggestion from another thread, I will use some modeling clay to determine the clearance of the end of the pick up tube from the bottom of the pan. Then, as necessary, use a longer bolt and washers, spacers, etc to adjust the distance to about 1/4 inch.
This is mod is very time consuming. If anyone is considering installing a new pan or windage tray, my recommendation is to wait until you have a reason to pull or lift the engine for any other work that you might be doing.
Nice write up! I always wondered about the install issues for the Canton oil pan. Thanks.
I like those pans a lot, but would only consider doing one if I had the motor out of the car.
Modified Windage Tray
Picked up the modified windage tray at lunch. I'll take some pics when I get home.
Picked up the modified windage tray at lunch. I'll take some pics when I get home.
I wanna see some pics, im gonna be doing a Canton pan and tray pretty soon on my Cobra
Chrome98Cobra said:
+1
I had the same problems as you when installing my Canton pan and windage tray. I called Canton and they told me to just bend the bracket down that was touching the pickup tube a bit and that seemed to take care of the problem. Using two gaskets in my case was only going to cause me to bend the bracket further so I just used silicone between the windage tray and block just like Canton recommends. My engine builder however told me to use two gaskets so it made me a little nervous doing so but I have no leaks so far. Dont forget to put some gasket sealer on the plug on the side of the pan as well, that thing made a mess on my garage floor. I myself am not that impressed with Canton's products but it seems to be about the only option for this mod that I know of.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=329073
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=329073
OK, here are the pics from my install. Sorry, I took so long to get them posted. First two are the modified windage tray. I had the mid brace moved down to clear the pick-up tube. If you look closely at the front brace, you can see I had one end of it rewelded to the crank side of the tray. On install I still had an interference problem and ended up remedying the problem with a few gentle taps of a ball peen hammer. If I had both end welded to the crank side, I'm thinking that there would have been no problem.
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Next two pics. The first shows how I adjusted the clearance from the bottom of the pick-up to the floor of the pan. I used a longer 8 mm bolt and two nuts as shims. The thickness of the nuts together is 1/2 inch and gave me just a shade under 1/4 inch clearance. The second pic is the completed install.
Additional comments:
1. If you remove the K-member, be sure to put the right side rack bolt in place before raising the K-member. It installs from the back side so that the threads stick out the front where the rack bolts on. I found this out to late and had to put the bolt back in from the front.
2. Here are some suggestions for other mods that will be very easy to do with the k-member removed:
a. Solid steering shaft install.
b. Header install.
c. Motor mount upgrade.
d. If you have the steering rack clunk, this is a good time to shorten the mount tubes that the rack bushings fit over. I used a cut off wheel on my trusty Dremel and shortened them about 1/4 inch.
e. The starter is also very accessible.
f. Mid pipe upgrade.
Additional comments:
1. If you remove the K-member, be sure to put the right side rack bolt in place before raising the K-member. It installs from the back side so that the threads stick out the front where the rack bolts on. I found this out to late and had to put the bolt back in from the front.
2. Here are some suggestions for other mods that will be very easy to do with the k-member removed:
a. Solid steering shaft install.
b. Header install.
c. Motor mount upgrade.
d. If you have the steering rack clunk, this is a good time to shorten the mount tubes that the rack bushings fit over. I used a cut off wheel on my trusty Dremel and shortened them about 1/4 inch.
e. The starter is also very accessible.
f. Mid pipe upgrade.
No need to modify the windage tray as your are supposed to cut the scraper from the stock oil pickup tube. That takes care of everything regarding clearance. Looks as though your method worked just as well. Removing the scraper saves a lot of time and headache, though.
Yeah thats how I did it as well...WDW MKR said:
Dont forget the poly engine mounts...
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