Car occasionally bucks hard after TVS install. Help!

[TheFleshRocket]

I've re-clocked to the 11 o'clock position. 10 o'clock seems like it would be too far over towards the fender, with the MAF itself possibly contacting the fender.

The wife is near the end of her rope with me spending money on this project, so $500 for a dyno tune (or whatever it costs) is out of the question, especially when I've already paid for a remote tune that's still getting ironed out.

 

[procharger]

Maybe clock it upside down, JLT high flow setup has the MAF upside down, it would be worth a shot. I would think your MAF housing is 95mm, as most aftermarket kits are at, stock is 90mm. I have a C&L 95mm, but change to JLT kit.

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[BoostedSVT03]

Also let your tuner know the clock position when you set it and mark it if you ever tear it apart. Once the tune is dialed in this is where you want to put it every time

 

[TheFleshRocket]

Clocking the MAF at 11:00 seemed to help and clocking it at 10:00 seemed to help even more. I'm going to make a different thread for discussing how MAF clocking affects readings.

 

[MethCobra]

Sounds very similar to what I've been experiencing. A heavy lean spot at low accel then back to stoich. I've been told by my tuner it's not the tune doing it but rather mechanical on my end. I've so far replaced Alternator and Battery and found a bad ground so I upgraded all wires and that cured battery voltage issues but the lean spike was still there. I happened to check my fuses on my fuel return pumps and one kept burning out that had dropped my pressure from about 43 to 36psi. I dropped the tank and one pump has bad ground internally that burnt up the pump. I now know the sensitivity our cars have to voltage changes and it's direct effect on our AFR. These electrical issues can have the remote tuner scratching there head wondering many things but I've went through everything to find my cars issues. I've even had a front screen installed of MAF of my high boost. That allows my car to idle super smooth at 720rpm. Anyway check your grounds charging system and fuel pumps.

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[cj428mach]

Clocking the MAF at 11:00 seemed to help and clocking it at 10:00 seemed to help even more. I'm going to make a different thread for discussing how MAF clocking affects readings.

Just put a screen on it and be done. Its all about air flow across the sensor, so putting a screen on the maf makes it the most consistent and accurate. $2 worth of bug screen from the hardware store and you're done.

I have a screen on all my cars.

 

[TheFleshRocket]

Just put a screen on it and be done. Its all about air flow across the sensor, so putting a screen on the maf makes it the most consistent and accurate. $2 worth of bug screen from the hardware store and you're done.
I have a screen on all my cars.

I'm not having any luck finding any detail about what kind of screen to use or how to install it. (Plenty of threads talking about removing the screen on older Mustangs, or debating whether or not it should be used, but none that I've found that talk about adding it to a Terminator.)

Obviously it goes before the MAF, but what density should it be (I assume there are different densities of screen), and how do I make it stay in place?

 

[cj428mach]

I'm not having any luck finding any detail about what kind of screen to use or how to install it. (Plenty of threads talking about removing the screen on older Mustangs, or debating whether or not it should be used, but none that I've found that talk about adding it to a Terminator.)

Obviously it goes before the MAF, but what density should it be (I assume there are different densities of screen), and how do I make it stay in place?

https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/jlt-highboost-with-a-separate-maf-housing.1111992/

Check out post #17

Its really not that complicated, just get you some nice bug screen from the hardware store. You can cut the screen with scissors, and then use the coupler to push over the screen and hold it like Malcolm did.

 

[TheFleshRocket]

Followup to this thread: I got my PPRV delete install finished last night and the hesitation is gone. I can shift gears as quickly or slowly as I want at whatever throttle opening I choose, and the car "just goes". Whew!