CG Fabrication turbo build

[static74]

Got it back from the dyno today!

No exhaust leaks what so ever, didn't even need tightening. The cutout sounds amazing as well, video doesn't do it justice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6_qgOxKn_Y

The car made 680rwhp, but unfortunately ran out of injector at 19psi using e85. I have 80# and I'm thinking about going to 1600cc injectors.

I would recommend this hotside to anyone, it has 120% better than on3, and it hasn't even needed any adjustment.

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[iggster]

whats the coldside consist off?

 

[static74]

It's 3" aluminum pipe custom made, CX racing intercooler, synapse synchronic bov, vmp hpx slot style maf.

 

[KingKiller]

I ditched the on3 kit because it wouldn't seal, I had nothing but exhaust leaks left and right. On3 also advertises(advertised) that all factory equipment fits. Yes I bitched about the ABS bracket, but that wasn't my big complaint. What good is a turbo kit that leaks?

I purchased a "race" kit from CG, with the preface that not all factory equipment fits.

Thanks for the post.

Just curious, which on3 kit did you have, the forward facing kit or the original one? I hear ya about the ABS bracket. Even with the ABS delete block I did it's close to the compressor outlet on my turbo. Granted, I'm using a Precision 7675 which I imagine is a bit bigger than the 70 that comes standard with their kit. The oil/coolant adapter coming off the block is the biggest gripe though. We wound up modifying the ford racing piece I had to come out at a better angle to avoid the header.

Fresh pics. I ended up going under the kmember with 4" oval.

The exhaust starts 4" from the turbo, 4" oval under the k, then back to 4" round with a cutout. Clearance isn't bad at all.

I also posted a finished product picture. I have some minor cleanup but for the most part its ready to go down the road.

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Did you wind up reusing the on3 pipe that goes to the throttle-body? I found that it doesn't seem to want to fit just right with having the angle at the throttle-body coupler being considerably off.

 

[static74]

Just curious, which on3 kit did you have, the forward facing kit or the original one? I hear ya about the ABS bracket. Even with the ABS delete block I did it's close to the compressor outlet on my turbo. Granted, I'm using a Precision 7675 which I imagine is a bit bigger than the 70 that comes standard with their kit. The oil/coolant adapter coming off the block is the biggest gripe though. We wound up modifying the ford racing piece I had to come out at a better angle to avoid the header.

I had the gen 2 4v forward facing kit. It's comical, some have 0 issues and some have all the issues I had.

Did you wind up reusing the on3 pipe that goes to the throttle-body? I found that it doesn't seem to want to fit just right with having the angle at the throttle-body coupler being considerably off.

I did end up reusing the cold side from the on3 kit. I will say that it's actually worked out nicely for me, but getting it fitted right takes considerable finesse. I have caught myself trying to put it on backwards, which will make it almost line up, but be off in angle.

 

[static74]

Thought I would offer a small update to where the car is.

The used precision turbo I bought from a member here shit the bed over the summer. It began spewing oil out of the turbine side of the turbo. After sending it to precision, I learned that the previous owner had ran some sort of stop leak through the oil system :nono:

Meanwhile, I decided to powder coat my valve covers. This job was difficult, it required partial removal of the hydroboost system, brake pedal assembly, and the upper intake. I went with the closest thing I could find to a "Ford blue".

This was also the opportune time to upgrade my fuel injectors to Bosch 160# white tops. Last year I maxed the SD 80#'s out on the dyno and experienced some odd fueling issues ever since. I'm also dumping my A1000 for a Magnafuel 4703, I will show that in a later post.

Pictures don't do justice to how massive these things are.

 

[fastmach01]

I like it. Hopefully start my Cg fab twin turbo install soon

 

[stangbanger856]

Any other updates on this, selling off my Vortech to go turbo and picking up these headers this week an running a Precision 7675 billet wheel turbo.

 

[Mystic03]

nice build! have any pics of the lines and hotside by driver side?

 

[cyclegrip]

Updates!?

 

[townaj]

Any updates on how the ceramic coating is holding up? I was thinking of doing the same thing to save some money

 

[fangs99]

was that 680rwhp with the converter unlocked or locked?

 

[SLPCobra]

Updates?

 

[static74]

So I've ran this setup now for two seasons and discovered a lot of things that I want to change. I've also developed some serious oil leaks that I need to address.

On the table for this year

• Powder coating
• Re-seal the engine
• New AN line and fitting
• MM 6 point roll bar
• Racing seats and harnesses
• Wire tuck and delete

So I got to work. This weekend I pulled the motor. You'll see the awful powder coating fail on the valve covers from a local shop that is getting re-done.

I believe most of my oil leaks developed from the timing cover and passenger valve cover. My power steering pump also seems to have formed a leak due to the sway bar pressing on the high pressure fitting.

Here is the engine ready to be removed, I've taken off the engine wiring harness and disconnected line, fitting, and removed the majority of the hot side with the exception of the headers. Thanks to CG's awesome kit, I can pull this thing out without removing the headers.

The 4R70W dowels held on tight and required some persuasion from a friend with a pry bar. Fluids drained for the most part, always that last splash of coolant to piss on the floor.

As you can see below, I've got a lot of cleaning to do in the bay. I'd like to pick up a set of Scott Rod's fender panels and tuck most of the wiring away.

Got the motor on the stand, thing is heavy!

Going to start removing the accessories, valve covers, oil pan, and intake next weekend.

 

[lilmarauder]

Where did you bolt the chains when you picked the engine?

 

[static74]

Bolt holes in the head. You can see the front one I used that holds part of the power steering bracket.

 

[lilmarauder]

Bolt holes in the head. You can see the front one I used that holds part of the power steering bracket.

I was scared to go into the aluminum. I'll try that when it goes in.

 

[MTBSully]

Can't remember. Did this kit allow you to retain AC and the swaybar?

 

[1raresnake]

I am also getting ready to pull my engine for a reseal. Glad I'm not the only one fighting leaks.

So I've ran this setup now for two seasons and discovered a lot of things that I want to change. I've also developed some serious oil leaks that I need to address.

On the table for this year

• Powder coating
• Re-seal the engine
• New AN line and fitting
• MM 6 point roll bar
• Racing seats and harnesses
• Wire tuck and delete

So I got to work. This weekend I pulled the motor. You'll see the awful powder coating fail on the valve covers from a local shop that is getting re-done.

I believe most of my oil leaks developed from the timing cover and passenger valve cover. My power steering pump also seems to have formed a leak due to the sway bar pressing on the high pressure fitting.

Here is the engine ready to be removed, I've taken off the engine wiring harness and disconnected line, fitting, and removed the majority of the hot side with the exception of the headers. Thanks to CG's awesome kit, I can pull this thing out without removing the headers.

The 4R70W dowels held on tight and required some persuasion from a friend with a pry bar. Fluids drained for the most part, always that last splash of coolant to piss on the floor.

As you can see below, I've got a lot of cleaning to do in the bay. I'd like to pick up a set of Scott Rod's fender panels and tuck most of the wiring away.

Got the motor on the stand, thing is heavy!

Going to start removing the accessories, valve covers, oil pan, and intake next weekend.

 

[static74]

Some updates.

Upon taking the oil pan off I spotted trouble. I had some debris in the oil pickup screen, so I decided to take the pump out for inspection. What I found was some scoring in the pump pocket under the gears, one particularly deep scratch enough to catch your fingernail.

After finding this I decided to check bearings for any issues. I found containerization and scoring in the bearings, likely from dirty oil galleys from when the motor was assembled. I should add that I didn't build this motor, it was purchased from a builder. These will need replaced.

It was decided to inspect bore and piston for wear. I found significant side load on the piston skirt resulting in a lot of wear and some scoring in the cylinder. The cylinder showed no signs of previous honing, so either the marks had worn off or it was never done.

At this point all bets were off and the block is going to the machine shop for a crank polish and honing. I will also be re-ringing the pistons.