changing the brakes

[Cobrakai04]

I got a new set of front and rear rotors along with pads and SS brake lines. I also got a set of speed bleeders. Other than that what else do I need to change my brakes? I was looking at getting some Amsoil brake fluid. I have never done brakes on a Cobra before so just looking for a little advice or tips.

Thanks!

 

[mu22stang]

Here are some good threads on the subject...

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/436874-front-brakes.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/420425-rear-brakes-how-write-up.html

I use Motul 600 brake fluid. If you don't open track, autocross, or competitively race, plain Jane DOT 3 or equal will be much cheaper.

 

[silverserpant]

just get the proper tool for the rear calipers so you dont wreck the boot. And dont loose the locking clip for the front caliper pin. pretty straight forward past that?

 

[Cobrakai04]

ok, thanks for the tips and link guys. Done lots of brakes before on mustangs, just didnt know how different it was working on these. Seems pretty straight forward!

 

[prs97]

just don't let the master cylinder empty out when you change the lines or open the system.

Bleeding all the air out is a pain in the asre. Ask me how I know. lol

 

[SnakeBit]

Here is a write up on flushing the brake fluid. When I wrote it, I was using speedbleeders. Now I have a Motive Power Bleeder. Maybe this will help you keep air out of your system. Good luck.

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I took an old jar, large enough to hold at least one can of brake fluid. It's best to start with an empty can of fluid (or one which has been previously opened and sat on the shelf with old fluid). Fill the can with water and dump it into the jar (or you can use a measuring cup to start with the same ounces of water as the brake fluid can contains). Now mark the fluid level. Throw out the water and connect your bleeder hose to bleeder screw (I used to use speedbleeders, but now I use a MityVac. Both work well. Some prefer the 2-man system, so use whatever is best for you).

Take a full can of brake fluid, wipe off the top good so there is no dirt that can get into the system and clean your thumb as well, then carefully invert it onto your master cylinder (be careful you don't spill it on the paint! I use my thumb over the opening until the bottle is inverted). Now duct tape it in place so it doesn't tip over. At this point, it looks like an inverted water bottle sitting on top of the water cooler.

Now go bleed your brakes. Watch the fluid level in the jar, cause when it's close to the line you marked, then the brake fluid can on the Master Cylinder is nearly empty. If you're still bleeding, then empty the jar and put another can on the M/C and hold it in place with duct tape.

I keep bleeding until the fluid comes out clean, then move on to the next wheel.

Another tip. Brake fluid WILL absorb water, so don't bother storing an open can. If you need to add just a little bit of fluid, might as well do a little flushing and use up the entire can. It's cheaper than replacing calipers because of internal corrosion. Pull your stock bleeder valve all the way out and you'll see what I mean.

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Here are some good instructions.
To season the rotors.
http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=4
To Bed the Pads
http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=5

 

[03cobra#694]

Good tips above,the tool for screwing in the rears is a important tip and the only other thing that I can think of is to make sure you remove the little rubber bushing in the anti-rattle clips from your old front pads and re-use them on the new pads.