Check Engine Light

[MidNight Snake]

So yesterday while on the highway I notice this smell almost like a faint oil burning smell. From all my years driving my 5.0 I now instictively jump up to check all my gauges. Well this time my check engine light is on. It was one of those days, I had a splitting head ache and a nice hang over, plus a had a nice soda spill seeping through my jeans. I pull over next exit check my oil and loose hoses just to be sure, everything is ok. I just went to auto zone to get it scanned. It came up with a P1132, Air Metering code. Anyone know where I can look up codes of this nature?

 

[MidNight Snake]

P1132 Lack Of HO2S11 Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich

 

[green99_svt]

could be a faulty o2 or it may actually be running rich check your fuel presure. see if its high.

 

[MidNight Snake]

I think its running rich. I am having a ignition related miss at idle. Im going to order the screaming deamon coil packs and plug wire kit. I tried today but they were closed for the holiday. I'll work from there,

 

[sLOWDOHC]

I think its running rich. I am having a ignition related miss at idle. Im going to order the screaming deamon coil packs and plug wire kit. I tried today but they were closed for the holiday. I'll work from there,

I understand having the miss...but throwing parts at it isnt cost effective, and really kills ones spirit. Trust me. :cuss:

Just a little food for thought.

 

[BlackGT]

DTC P1132 bank 1 (Cylinder 1) says that the fuel/air ratio is correcting lean for an overly rich condition.

 

[BlackGT]

Fuel system:

Excessive fuel pressure.
Leaking fuel injector(s).
Leaking fuel pressure regulator.
Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel.
Contaminated fuel injector(s)
Vapor recovery system

 

[BlackGT]

Induction system:

Air leaks after the MAF.
Vacuum leaks (vacuum lines and gaskets).
Restricted air inlet.
PCV system.
Improperly seated engine oil dipstick.

 

[BlackGT]

EGR System:

Leaking gasket.
Stuck open EGR valve.
Leaking diaphragm

 

[BlackGT]

Base engine:

Oil overfill.
Cam timing.
Cylinder compression.
Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2Ss.
Check intake air system for leaks, obstructions and damage.
Check air cleaner element, air cleaner housing for blockage.
Verify integrity of the PCV system.
Check for vacuum leaks.

 

[BlackGT]

just some things to check its a lot i know, but start with the most reasonable cause.

 

[MidNight Snake]

I understand having the miss...but throwing parts at it isnt cost effective, and really kills ones spirit. Trust me. :cuss:

Just a little food for thought.

Its something I wanted to do anyway as an upgrade, and I know I at the very least nead new plug wires, not from the check engine code either.

 

[MidNight Snake]

DTC P1132 bank 1 (Cylinder 1) says that the fuel/air ratio is correcting lean for an overly rich condition.

I read all of your things. Very helpful. Here is what I am know has to be done anyway. Fuel filter, which would create low fuel pressure as u stated. I already have one, I have just been lazy getting over to auto zone to get the disconect tool. I also am pretty sure I need a new PCV valve, since it look like theres a small oil spill around the valve.On a side note as I am typing this I take a sip of my red bull, only to find it is not the one I bought earlier this evening but the one I bought a few weeks ago and have been extinguishing my cigaretts in. It tastes as good as it sounds

 

[DropTopFord 5 0]

So yesterday while on the highway I notice this smell almost like a faint oil burning smell. From all my years driving my 5.0 I now instictively jump up to check all my gauges. Well this time my check engine light is on. It was one of those days, I had a splitting head ache and a nice hang over, plus a had a nice soda spill seeping through my jeans. I pull over next exit check my oil and loose hoses just to be sure, everything is ok. I just went to auto zone to get it scanned. It came up with a P1132, Air Metering code. Anyone know where I can look up codes of this nature?

i think i might know exactly what it is
, i didnt read all of the posts, just skipped to the end so story if this is a repost... i have a 94 5.0 and had the same problem, i thought i smelled oil burning, so id always pull over and look under the hood, but nothing... there was never any oil smoke coming from the exhaust so i was all thrown off, after a while of just dealing with this since i have no money, i ran into the problem of the check engine light tripping when i got on the throttle, then after a little light driving it would go away... this went on for some time and going through the winter i was able to drive around without beating on it too much, so the chech engine light was not bothering me too much... then a couple of weeks ago, i was on the highway and realized that smoke smell... so took it to the shop and they ran some tests which threw the same code as you told me the rich signal...they told me that( though this seems like just the opposite) the engine wasnt getting enough fuel, and they traced it to the Mass airflow sensor... yes i have an aftermarket air cleaner so i decided to just take some electronic contact spray (you can find it at any auto parts store) and sprayed the wire(s) in the center of the MAF... works like magic and no more oil smell... i dont know how these things were related, but sure enough... we're good as new, so before you get all scared, just clean the MAF... come to think of it, if anyone knows more of why this was related, please let me know!, good luck!

 

[DropTopFord 5 0]

wow, after having read what your going through, i feel your pain, i have had the same thoughts and problems and possible fix suggestions you are getting now, i just hope you at least give this a try before you go replacing coils and fuel filters... its probably really worth a shot so let me know how it goes

-Dale M Quote "If the sensor is dirty just take some alcohol (not whisky Scoriox) and some Q-tips and clean the wires off. Oil based filters have been the culprtit of many a SES. Also if you removed the position of the MAF and rotated the MAF it has been known to cause a lean condition, this may not be too bad if it's not knocking and to be safe just bump up to the next higher octane fuel."

i just personally dont want to touch the sensative wires so i opted for the touchless spray

-scoriox quote "supposed to clean it with electrical contact cleaner. its a spray so you dont really "touch it"

if you have an oiled air filter, its a must.

 

[MidNight Snake]

That was one of the things I was planning on doing. I still think the miss is due to plug wires or coil packs, but the MAF was deffinately one of my thoughts. You just motivated me to go out and get some electrical contact cleaner. This is my first MAF car, so pardon me for worrying about this. So I just get some of that cleaner, spray it on then what. Let it air dry? Blow it off? What. Can I mess anything up if I get to agressive? Help???

BTW thanks for the concern. Theres a bunch of good guys on this site.

 

[DropTopFord 5 0]

That was one of the things I was planning on doing. I still think the miss is due to plug wires or coil packs, but the MAF was deffinately one of my thoughts. You just motivated me to go out and get some electrical contact cleaner. This is my first MAF car, so pardon me for worrying about this. So I just get some of that cleaner, spray it on then what. Let it air dry? Blow it off? What. Can I mess anything up if I get to agressive? Help???

BTW thanks for the concern. Theres a bunch of good guys on this site.

if you just spray off the element in the MAF, you'll be fine, ive drenched mine, and i think its mostly alcohol... so it evaporates without any residue... ive heard of guys using q tips and rubbing alcohol...but that scares me too because i know the wires are very sensative and can be messed up easily... i never had to touch mine and would be nervous to do so my self, just make sure you obviously sont have it electronically connected because i know its a heated element... good luck, also make sure that when you reconnect it, it is not crooked (sodeays ) because i have heard of this causing a lean condition also, as for the miss, it might have to do with whether or not you have ever changed plugs, wires, in my case cap and rotor, but yo dont have that... i have heard that the coil packs will not cause a miss, it will run crappy, but if it is bad enough to cause a miss, it probably will hardly run...this is just what ive heard, not out of the bible... but ya def try cleaning the MAF, then plug wires, then hopefully you wont have to buy a coil pack... good luck

 

[MidNight Snake]

So, let me catch everybody up on my progress. I cleaned the MAF, but the CEL came on again. Yesterday, I installed the screamin deamon coil packs and plug wires. I didn't gap the plugs like they said they to. I had to make happy hour. I replaced the PCV and fuel filter. The filter was fun. The spilled gas mixed with all the tar and undercarige paint or whatever it is and bonded to my hand like super glue accompanied by a nice burning sensation. I felt like I was in the seen in fight club where they poor that chemical stuff on his hand. It took a good 15 mins of scrubing my hands with terpintine to get it off. Anyway, my car feels no better, and while I havent triped the CEL again yet I am sure I will. My idle sucks and there is still a miss. Any sugestions??? Maybe O2 sensors, what would clogged cats feel like. Do they make something that I can plug into the service port to monitor what the hell is going on.

 

[MidNight Snake]

I don't mind that I payed for the coil packs. It is still an upgrade so it doesn't feel like a waste.