Choosing used 2010 vs 2011 GT500

Fuerig

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BigDan -

It was my understanding that the under aeros were part of the SVTPP. Is this true or was it standard for all 2011's?
 

BigDan

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BigDan -

It was my understanding that the under aeros were part of the SVTPP. Is this true or was it standard for all 2011's?

I made that list over 3 years ago and was pretty thorough with my research but I have been known to be wrong from time to time.
 

Flight_83

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Holds true for someone who is going to stay stock but it isn't worth the extra money if you're going to replace the majority of this list with aftermarket parts anyway. Everyone is different though. To me the only substantial change was the block though. Everything else would be upgraded anyways.

I think the 2011 is worth it.

Ford gave 2011 owner's over $10k in upgrades over the 2010 model and that's even without the SVT PP. Here is a list I made for members who wanted to know the difference between a 2010 and 2011 non-PP.

*Aluminum block
*Electric steering
*Silver finish on SC
*Blue power coat valve covers
*Improved exhaust manifolds
*Larger exhaust diameter
*H pipe vs 2010 X pipe
*Painted rear end
*Finned aluminum diff cover
*Improved brake cooling
*Auto start ignition
*40% larger inter cooler
*HID's standard
*No gas guzzler tax
*Flip up/ down rear headrests
* Improved under body aero dynamics
*Orange antifreeze
*Bigger faster more complex computer
*Wideband o2's?
*New colors
*Improved suspension, fixed the 2010's wheel hop.
*10 horsepower more but seems to make more like 20whp
*Factory "Boost a pump" for the fuel pump
*"My key" for limiting speed and TC for certain keys
*Different tuning due to the 2011-12 making peak whp at redline
*Optional glass roof
*Blind spot side view mirrors.
*extra sound deadening material

+ everything that's in the SVT PP like

19 and 20" light weight forged wheels
Goodyear G2 tires that pull 1.0g same tires as Z06
Lowered suspension
Larger sway bars
Improved shocks/ struts
3.73 rear end
White shift knob
Lemans stripes

I recommend you take a 2010 and a 2011(PP) out for a thorough test drive and maybe you wont need or miss all the 2011 upgrades.

Most reviewers could immediately feel the weight difference. My 2011 weighed only 3,660lbs with just Racestars. I could of got it into the 3,5xxlb range with a one piece drive shaft and aftermarket exhaust which is crazy light for a GT500.

2010 Exhaust stock 2.5" X pipe
[youtube_browser]8ajEhzFKSgU[/youtube_browser]

2011 Exhaust stock 2.75" H pipe
[youtube_browser]uKDg1xmdNKY[/youtube_browser]
 

BigDan

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Holds true for someone who is going to stay stock but it isn't worth the extra money if you're going to replace the majority of this list with aftermarket parts anyway. Everyone is different though. To me the only substantial change was the block though. Everything else would be upgraded anyways.

I wouldn't say everything except the block. You cant mod the ECU and its dual knock sensors which adjust the timing vs using IAT tables on pre 11's which give the the tuner much more freedom when tuning, the parts and tuning which allow it to make peak power at its 6,250 rpm red line, the electric steering, auto start ignition, factory HID's which cost an arm and a leg if you dont have them, glass roof and a few other things that pre 11 owners dont usually add like the extra sound denoting, blue wrinkle coat valve covers, silver supercharger, blind spot mirrors, etc.

For me I would spend the extra $2-3K for a 2011-12 over a 2010 without blinking an eye and maybe a little bit more is its a PP with glass roof. To me a 2010 feels like a tank behind the wheel by comparison. Sure the 2010 can be modded to to make big power but its never going to be able to over come its 120lb weight disadvantage most of which lies over the front tires.

[youtube_browser]aR7PIZhFUdc[/youtube_browser]

Good stuff with Jamal Hameedi (SVT Chief Engineer) starts at 12:55
[youtube_browser]8l4UXKNRiQA[/youtube_browser]
 
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96slowbra

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wide band o2 is the big thing i wish i had. i also like the idea of aluminum block, and no power steering pump. but you see plenty of fast 2010 cars....
 

Flight_83

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K member, A arms, radiator support, and light weight battery will reduce the front end weight significantly. I'm with you about the computer but things like the electric steering (don't trust), auto start ignition, factory HID's, glass roof, extra sound denoting (which adds weight), blue wrinkle coat valve covers, silver supercharger (does nothing), and blind spot mirrors are all non performing non performance items. You can drop an easy 150+ lbs off a 2010 just replacing parts that most change out on 10-14's. Like I said though theres no right or wrong choice and depends on what you're doing with it. I love them all 07-14.
:beer::beer:

I wouldn't say everything except the block. You cant mod the ECU and its dual knock sensors which adjust the timing vs using IAT tables on pre 11's which give the the tuner much more freedom when tuning, the parts and tuning which allow it to make peak power at its 6,250 rpm red line, the electric steering, auto start ignition, factory HID's which cost an arm and a leg if you dont have them, glass roof and a few other things that pre 11 owners dont usually add like the extra sound denoting, blue wrinkle coat valve covers, silver supercharger, blind spot mirrors, etc.

For me I would spend the extra $2-3K for a 2011-12 over a 2010 without blinking an eye and maybe a little bit more is its a PP with glass roof. To me a 2010 feels like a tank behind the wheel by comparison. Sure the 2010 can be modded to to make big power but its never going to be able to over come its 120lb weight disadvantage most of which lies over the front tires.

[youtube_browser]aR7PIZhFUdc[/youtube_browser]

Good stuff with Jamal Hameedi (SVT Chief Engineer) starts at 12:55
[youtube_browser]8l4UXKNRiQA[/youtube_browser]
 

ponyboy96

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Can't go wrong with either IMO. I got the 10 new and could have gotten an 11. At the time no one knew for sure how the 11 block would hold up. I've raced 11-12s in my car stock and with similar mods. I've never lost. It really all comes down to the driver.
 

65sohc

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3.73 are no good once your power gets astronomical which is very easy with these cars.

I plan on doing a full Griggs setup so SVTPP was useless for me. It matters more what your end goal is than what you start with.

I did a full Griggs suspension on my '09 Shelby which is why I'm driving a Boss today.
 

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