Choosing used 2010 vs 2011 GT500

[AustinM]

Hi Everyone - I have been looking at GT500s for the last few months and I am close to pulling the trigger. One thing I cannot decide on is whether the 2011 is worth the additional money. Most 2010s are in the 35 range and 2011s are 41 range. I know there is a small performance difference but trying to figure out if it is worth the 5-7k difference. Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[Colleton]

JMO, but the '11s are worth the extra money.

Aluminum block with PTWA, EPAS (one of my fav things about my old '11), SVTPP, etc... Not trying to upset anyone, but the '11s and '12s are just better cars.

 

[SuperFly03]

The question is not which is better now but, given what set of mods, which is better?

SVTPP and stuff easily because moot if you are going to mod the suspension. The block is valid but I like my iron one. I refuse to own an electronic power steering sports car. Hate the feedback.

When I made the call it was a $20k difference. So when I looked at what I knew I would do with the car the math didn't get me to 2011.

 

[fastashell]

I prefer the iron block also, so I would buy the 10

 

[BLK93GT]

You can get 2011 for well under 40k right now. I went with the 2011 due to a few things, I liked the engine bay appearance better, lighter motor, better handling, 3.73 gears (svtpp), wheels (svtpp), and a few other things. But I knew I would not have the $$ to mod so I went with the car that was closer to what I wanted to start. I would have gotten a 2010 though if there was one for much less than my car. At the time I got mine 2011 for the same price as a 2010. If there is a huge price difference at cars you are looking at just got with the 2010.

 

[IronTerp]

Both are great cars. Some folks disagree, but I'm partial to the aluminum block in the 11's. That and the one year better technology would make it a slam dunk for me.

 

[brian98svtsnake]

Color was my most important factor when I purchased my 08. If you buy a car just for its year and slightly better performance you may regret not getting the color you want.

 

[NightRide]

If your going to mod it anyways get the 10, keeping it stockish go for the 11. Just as easy as deciding between an 11/12 or a 13 although the performance gap is much bigger. All of these cars make similar power when modded.

 

[rotor_powerd]

Depends on what you want to do with the car.

I'd rather have an iron block and hate electric steering so the 11/12 would be out of the picture for me. That aluminum block is a nice paper weight should you ever mess up the cylinder walls, save for putting in a set of sleeves which will probably run you a couple thousand dollars. Can always bore/hone an iron block just like anything else. The BPS guys have more than proven that the extra weight of an iron block isn't much of a hindrance when getting things moving down the drag strip.

 

[Ninjak]

The 11's are more than just the blocks. Fuel delivery is better on the 11. You can mod without the use of the boost-a-pump to a degree. The exhaust is better on the 11. Its bigger from factory. The h/e though still small, is still bigger on the 11. The UCA is bigger on the 11. You get the point. There are a myriad of other things that the 11 has, but I am sure you can find a thread on it.

If you plan on modding to hell and back, then it really does not matter. I for one like the advancement of the 11's. Though lol in truth, I ended up modding most of those things I mentioned. I will still say the built in boost -a - pump is huge on the 11's.

 

[BLK93GT]

The 11's are more than just the blocks. Fuel delivery is better on the 11. You can mod without the use of the boost-a-pump to a degree. The exhaust is better on the 11. Its bigger from factory. The h/e though still small, is still bigger on the 11. The UCA is bigger on the 11. You get the point. There are a myriad of other things that the 11 has, but I am sure you can find a thread on it.

If you plan on modding to hell and back, then it really does not matter. I for one like the advancement of the 11's. Though lol in truth, I ended up modding most of those things I mentioned. I will still say the built in boost -a - pump is huge on the 11's.

Factory wideband o2s I forgot about that one as well. Frequency based MAF possibly it's been awhile since I read the changes. The SVTPP was a big one for me. I would have liked a 2012 for the Recaros though but it was way out of my budget.

If you plan on going all out and modding the difference doesn't really matter especially the svtpp. I could afford a car but not to go hog wild modding so I went with the best in factory trim, which to me was the 2011 with svtpp. Ran some killer times so far, definitely impressed with it!

 

[Robert M]

Factory wideband o2s I forgot about that one as well. Frequency based MAF possibly it's been awhile since I read the changes. The SVTPP was a big one for me. I would have liked a 2012 for the Recaros though but it was way out of my budget.

If you plan on going all out and modding the difference doesn't really matter especially the svtpp. I could afford a car but not to go hog wild modding so I went with the best in factory trim, which to me was the 2011 with svtpp. Ran some killer times so far, definitely impressed with it!

Aren't there some interior differences too, 2010 to 2011? like different seat foam (and covers) maybe rear seat headrests? Do the 2011 seats have adjustable front seat headrests?

^^^I was thinking I heard some discussion about interior changes for the 2011? :shrug:




R

 

[Flight_83]

I have a 2010 and the only thing I was up on the fence about was wanting to save weight with the 2011 aluminum block. With that said the price difference was too big between the 10-11 so I got my 10 and dumped the 4K I saved into the suspension and other mods. You can't go wrong with either and they both haul ass.

 

[SuperFly03]

3.73 are no good once your power gets astronomical which is very easy with these cars.

I plan on doing a full Griggs setup so SVTPP was useless for me. It matters more what your end goal is than what you start with.

 

[me32]

3.73 are no good once your power gets astronomical which is very easy with these cars.

I plan on doing a full Griggs setup so SVTPP was useless for me. It matters more what your end goal is than what you start with.

Your wrong about the gear. These cars love 373 and 410s. I have 700hp and the gears are great. I guess it just depends how we you can handle the car. The weakest part of the car is the tires.

 

[Fuerig]

Hi Everyone - I have been looking at GT500s for the last few months and I am close to pulling the trigger. One thing I cannot decide on is whether the 2011 is worth the additional money. Most 2010s are in the 35 range and 2011s are 41 range. I know there is a small performance difference but trying to figure out if it is worth the 5-7k difference. Thoughts?

Thanks

I went for the 11 for several reasons. I liked the SVTPP. I liked the weight savings of the Aluminum block. I loved the SVTPP wheels. Correct me if Im wrong but I loved the fact that HID headlights were standard instead of optional. Imo , it depends on what your plans for the car will be. If you save 5-7k up front .. how much modding can you do with that off the bat? I chose my car for my reasons .. just figure out what is most beneficial to yourself.

 

[Fuerig]

3.73 are no good once your power gets astronomical which is very easy with these cars.

I plan on doing a full Griggs setup so SVTPP was useless for me. It matters more what your end goal is than what you start with.

I agree with the 3.73. At the track I was able to cut 1.58 60ft times on a 20in drag radial , however, on the street I carved many 45 degree angles at 50mph. I actually stepped down in gear and went to a 3.31 for more control on the street. I figured if the 13-14 Shelbys did it .. how bad could it be?

 

[betiwin]

there is no gearing differance between the 10 vs 11-12 with PP when you take stock tire/rim height. Now put a 20" on a 2010 and the gearing is truly is like 3.46.

 

[Kevin P]

there is no gearing differance between the 10 vs 11-12 with PP when you take stock tire/rim height. Now put a 20" on a 2010 and the gearing is truly is like 3.46.

This is true, overall gearing is the same due to the tire-height differences.

 

[BigDan]

I think the 2011 is worth it.

Ford gave 2011 owner's over $10k in upgrades over the 2010 model and that's even without the SVT PP. Here is a list I made for members who wanted to know the difference between a 2010 and 2011 non-PP.

*Aluminum block
*Electric steering
*Silver finish on SC
*Blue power coat valve covers
*Improved exhaust manifolds
*Larger exhaust diameter
*H pipe vs 2010 X pipe
*Painted rear end
*Finned aluminum diff cover
*Improved brake cooling
*Auto start ignition
*40% larger inter cooler
*HID's standard
*No gas guzzler tax
*Flip up/ down rear headrests
* Improved under body aero dynamics
*Orange antifreeze
*Bigger faster more complex computer
*Wideband o2's?
*New colors
*Improved suspension, fixed the 2010's wheel hop.
*10 horsepower more but seems to make more like 20whp
*Factory "Boost a pump" for the fuel pump
*"My key" for limiting speed and TC for certain keys
*Different tuning due to the 2011-12 making peak whp at redline
*Optional glass roof
*Blind spot side view mirrors.
*extra sound deadening material

+ everything that's in the SVT PP like

19 and 20" light weight forged wheels
Goodyear G2 tires that pull 1.0g same tires as Z06
Lowered suspension
Larger sway bars
Improved shocks/ struts
3.73 rear end
White shift knob
Lemans stripes

I recommend you take a 2010 and a 2011(PP) out for a thorough test drive and maybe you wont need or miss all the 2011 upgrades.

Most reviewers could immediately feel the weight difference. My 2011 weighed only 3,660lbs with just Racestars. I could of got it into the 3,5xxlb range with a one piece drive shaft and aftermarket exhaust which is crazy light for a GT500.

2010 Exhaust stock 2.5" X pipe
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2011 Exhaust stock 2.75" H pipe
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