clutch adjustment?

SoCalBlk03

THE Clutch Killer!!
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1. Car off
2. put car in 1st
3. depress clutch then release
4. using your toe pull up on clutch until you hear an audible click ( may be very faint though)
5. repeat process as nessisary
 

stang99

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It gets even better than the instructions above. You can get down under the dashboard and push down on the clutch pedal. If you follow the motion across under the dash, you will see an automatic adjuster above the accelerator pedal. You can push down on the clutch a bit and hold the adjustment mechanism (it has sort a hook coming out of it) while pulling up on the clutch
pedal. This allows you to take some extra clicks out of the adjustment and helps the shift/etc. I should have done this before I ate my clutch using the Nittos at the strip. When I get a new clutch I will definitely get an adjustable quadrent.



Originally posted by VintagePorscheG
I can't find anything on how to do this...

Would someone please help me?
 

94SVT Coupe

Ford Fanatic
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Get the new UPR setup (quadrant & adjuster only). The Ford stuff is junk.


Adjusting the stocker is in the owners manual. Seems not many people read the owners manuals.
 

ChicagoMike

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I read my manual front to back! Good to know about that automatic fuel-pump shut off switch! You have to know where to find it to turn it on, otherwise if someone bumps ya just a little from behind.... no start :)
 

flyn high again

You are getting sleepy...
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I agree on reading the manual. Throw it in the bathroom for a few days till you finish it. LOL.

However, for a performance car, this manual surely doesn't tell you a lot. Anyone have the shop manual? Is it better?
 

Jerryk

Halfshaft abuser
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The factory plastic clutch pawl is junk. Adjust it all you want but the first kick of the clutch during a race at the 1-2 shift is all its good for, you're gonna grind 2-3 and 3-4 shift and the next 8 shifts even when you're going easy on it until the clutch takes up the slack again. Go w/ the UPR Firewall adjuster and the aluminum quadrant to replace the factory setup. Sweet setup. I gotta tell you though its scary how fast I'm wearing out my factory clutch disk. The frequency with which I have to go under the hood and take up the slack and put the engagement back at the top tells me I'm going to be replacing the clutch disk before 10K miles like some others have already had to do.. can you say MOOGOO Torque!

Jerry
 

stang99

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Yes, when you race a lot, the stock clutch's disk apparently wears down very quickly. I forced another click on my today and it shift perfectly again. However, your are right that it can lose the adjustment easily. I was just pointing out that it is not hard to force an extra click and that this might save your bacon when the car actually gets so bad that it doesn't want to go into reverse. A better clutch and an adjustable quadrant is the best solution. It appears that this will be the first clutch that I have ever had to replace on any of my many high performance vehicles. Of course, none of them had 450 rwhp, either.

Originally posted by Jerryk
The factory plastic clutch pawl is junk. Adjust it all you want but the first kick of the clutch during a race at the 1-2 shift is all its good for, you're gonna grind 2-3 and 3-4 shift and the next 8 shifts even when you're going easy on it until the clutch takes up the slack again. Go w/ the UPR Firewall adjuster and the aluminum quadrant to replace the factory setup. Sweet setup. I gotta tell you though its scary how fast I'm wearing out my factory clutch disk. The frequency with which I have to go under the hood and take up the slack and put the engagement back at the top tells me I'm going to be replacing the clutch disk before 10K miles like some others have already had to do.. can you say MOOGOO Torque!

Jerry
 

trey193

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Not quite following what your said about the extra adjustment Tetge, I pulled up on mine the other day but could not get a click out of it, I thought for sure I would because the car has had some passes at the track on it, now how do you get the extra clicks????
 

stang99

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I adjusted mine again last night. You push down some on the clutch pedal. If you get down under the dash or feel around with your hand, you can follow the shaft that goes from the clutch pedal to the Ford self adjuster that is in the area above the throttle pedal. When you pull up on the clutch, if there is sufficient travel, the adjuster clicks one tooth and tightens up the clutch cable. What you do, when you locate the automatic adjuster, is push down the clutch a bit, and then hold the adjuster in place while pulling up on the clutch. This lengthens the stroke of the self adjuster and lets you click a tooth sooner than the automatic feature would do. It would help if you could get under the dash with a light to see how everything works, but, I'm too big so I just do it by feel. Now my car shifts again. If I didn't know th trick, I'd be at the dealership since it was getting impossible to shift.
 

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