Clutch fork bottoming out

[testorossa1989]

I need some advice

I'm currently at a crossroad and not sure what course of action to take. In my last post I was struggling with a pivot stud issue with my RXT twin disc clutch. I made necessary adjustments and bench tested travel with a micrometer.

I'm now faced with a unforseen clearance issue (it's always something ). I installed the T56 all went well until I went to check my clutch fork swing and ONCE AGAIN my TOB is contacting the PP fingers, except this time it's just snug against the PP but not actually pushing down on the PP. I took the crude Pic below. The center circle appears to be a bump stop of sorts which I assume is to stop the fork swing when fully retracted. This seems to be preventing my fork from retracting the additional distance needed (3mm) for the TOB to have an air gap & be off the PP. A rough measurement of the inner square opening (circled) is roughly 4.1mm

So the way I see it, I have two options. 1st is to give my clutch fork a "moon roof" and remove a portion of the center of the fork to allow the bump stop to slide thru which I can only assume will compromise the structural integrity of the fork. My 2nd option is the irreversible cut of 4.2mm +/- from the Bump stop to allow the Fork to swing back further thus GIVING TOB air gap from the PP. The second circle in the image might be a secondary obstacle and it's clearance is ~3mm. The takeaway is both options sound pretty bad. I'm unsure what to do and atm pretty discouraged at the obstacle I'm faced with after spending the entire Sunday in the garage. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Current setup is
- McLeod RXT twin disc
- McLeod adjustable pivot stud (screwed all the way in)
- McLeod clutch fork
worth noting that all measurements taken are with the clutch fork counter-balance removed.
- Ford Performance TOB
- original T56
- loss of sanity

 

[MG0h3]

Clearance the fork and face of the trans


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[01yellercobra]

Personally I'd clearance the stop on the trans and leave the fork alone. I want to say I had to trim the pivot ball to get it down far enough for what I needed. I also removed the weight on the fork to give a smidge more clearance.

 

[03' White Snake]

Even with an adjustable pivot ball stud, I had to cut off about 1/2" to get it to thread in shorter than the stock one. I went 5mm or so shorter.

I did not grind my fork at all, I clearanced the webbing on the front of the magnum to install the RXT in my car. I had a good 3/16" of clearance from the PP fingers to the TB before adjusting the cable. I also don't run the weight.

 

[TerminatorCobraJP]

I was already not looking forward to installing this clutch in my car. This sounds stressful but I really want to know what you end up doing. I've always had my TOB resting on the fingers at all times, the goal is to have an air gap?

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[03' White Snake]

I was already not looking forward to installing this clutch in my car. This sounds stressful but I really want to know what you end up doing. I've always had my TOB resting on the fingers at all times, the goal is to have an air gap?

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It should barely touch under normal conditions, but you need an air gap to make sure it is not pre loading the fingers during setup.

 

[testorossa1989]

I'm absolutely exhausted but I made a lot of progress today. I was a bit detailed for whomever may be reading this in the future some day.

I ended up cutting 1/2" off the Pivot stud which allowed the option to get it completely screwed in. I also cut the stopper for the Fork (bump stop). I took a few pics for JP. It wasn't difficult at all just time consuming with a dremel. I removed 4.5mm off the top of the stopper. Along with my Pivot stud at 3mm shorter that previously (7.5mm underside of pivot ball-to top jam nut) with some room to screw in further but not a whole lot.

I didn't get time to celebrate cuz I had to head to work but here's a recording. You can hear the TOB tapping on the PP fingers a little. Suggestive of just touching the PP to acceptable amount. I DID NOTICE that the bolt in the original image (circled) did pose a clearance issue. Gonna shave the fork down a little in that spot and see how much I gain and if I'll pursue adjusting the Pivot ball further.

 

[testorossa1989]

McLeod clearance video

 

[TerminatorCobraJP]

I'm absolutely exhausted but I made a lot of progress today. I was a bit detailed for whomever may be reading this in the future some day.

I ended up cutting 1/2" off the Pivot stud which allowed the option to get it completely screwed in. I also cut the stopper for the Fork (bump stop). I took a few pics for JP. It wasn't difficult at all just time consuming with a dremel. I removed 4.5mm off the top of the stopper. Along with my Pivot stud at 3mm shorter that previously (7.5mm underside of pivot ball-to top jam nut) with some room to screw in further but not a whole lot.

I didn't get time to celebrate cuz I had to head to work but here's a recording. You can hear the TOB tapping on the PP fingers a little. Suggestive of just touching the PP to acceptable amount. I DID NOTICE that the bolt in the original image (circled) did pose a clearance issue. Gonna shave the fork down a little in that spot and see how much I gain and if I'll pursue adjusting the Pivot ball further.

Thanks man! I appreciate it. This should help me out a lot.

Sent from my SM-S536DL using the svtperformance.com mobile app