CLutch is now shot, what to do?

cobra101

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My clutch has been chattering for some time. No biggy but now it has trouble getting into gears/shifting.

I liked the stock one. How much should it cost to do the job. Clutch, flywheel resaurface, tob, etc..

I just don't want to get ripped off. I am figuring about 800-1000 dolllars? sound about right? Should I choose a local shop (socal, valley if you know of any) or use Galpin (Who have been good to me in the past).

thanks for any info.

-Cobra101
 

younggun04

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If you are going to go though the trouble to put a new clutch in I would suggest going with something aftermarket. Most aftermarket clutches have a better than stock pedal feel and can hold much more power. I would suggest a McLeod 800 Series, Spec 3, or even a centerforce DFX. Any of those would be better than a stock replacement. Also a new quadrant and firewall adjuster are also good investments aswell.
 

cobra101

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Hi,

Thanks for the info, would the pedal be harder to push in with the mcleod or centerforce vs. the stock setup?

I am sitting at 440rwhp and have no plans to do a blower swap. That said would you reccommend the mcelod(sp) or centerforce? hows the prices compared to stock same or cheaper?

I beat on it pretty good and got 60k outta my clutch, and never had much of a problem.

I will ask about the two other options, I imagine they will still change the pressure plate, tob, pilot bearing and so forth?

Prices were as follows:

Ford: 1125.00
Local Shop 1: 965.00
Local Shop 2: 850.00

Shop 2 was highly reccommended so I will use them. I will ask bout the other two clutch options. I just don't want a stiff arse pedal.


Ohh BTW, I already have the steeda metal clutch quadrant and F/W installed.

Thanks again,

Cobra 101.
 

cobra101

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Good to know. I priced some of those you mentioned out and it seemed to be about double to do it. I was very happy with the grip/bite of mine, at least for now.

Looks like it will be about 900.00 total.

He may charge me 200.00 more for a sleeve that runs on the bell housing? where the tob bearing sits? Is this the tob retainer sleeve, most likely? I will find out today.

Anyone know about this? he said they do not sell it separate, it has to bought with a new bell housing.

We'll see. Sucks that I didn't order thr LFP tob retainer sleeve in advance. Seems like it would have been worth it. I may HAVE to put it in eventually, if it squeals.

Thanks for help, I am supposed to pick it up today.

thanks much,

Cobra101
 
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cobra101

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Cool. I guess at this point I will worry about it in 50k-60k miles.

Well, the Job was done and it is awesome. I was had notorious TOB squeal interminent from 6k str8 from ford. I also drove it chattering for about the last 1 1/2, basically till it wouldn't shift gears and howled and squawked horribly as described by some other owners. The pedal was always tighter than other cobras I have driven.

Well, now it is soft like butter! It shifts better than it did from Ford on the first day!

So happy! I may just get the steggy port now :) I know even more reason for spec clutch, but it'll do for awhile. No blower swap for me though.

I still can't believe I drove it close to 60k miles with that stiff arse clutch.


Anyway, It is awesome. BTW, it was 850.00 (Ford Clutch kit and labor) plus 200.00 for new retainer sleeve (Had I known I would have gotten one prior for 140.00 delivered but hey, whatever.) and 50.00 to resurface flywheel. Got out the door for 1100.00. Not too bad at all, IMO.

Yay!!!!

-Cobra101
 

ttk53

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you get a portted blower and you will be doing a clutch job again very soon. This is why people told you to go aftermarket!
 

cobra101

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Nah, I got 60k on mine and i drive it hard allot. I am SURE I will get 50k outta it. I know many are running on stock 10 spline and clutch, getting more than even I did outta the clutch with ported blower and no other real mods.

I am SURE 60 more Hp, won't make it last 80% less.

Thanks for the comment though!
 

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