Clutch noise

Drew03

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I have a question about an issue my car just started having. Whenever I push in the clutch no matter in gear or in neutral I hear a clanging or rattling sound. The car still drives and shifts like I'm used to. Is this the throw out bearing going bad or do I have more serious issues like the clutch going bad? I'm not sure what clutch is in the car, I've owned it going on 4 years and never had an issue with it.
 

Rolltide2012

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I have a question about an issue my car just started having. Whenever I push in the clutch no matter in gear or in neutral I hear a clanging or rattling sound. The car still drives and shifts like I'm used to. Is this the throw out bearing going bad or do I have more serious issues like the clutch going bad? I'm not sure what clutch is in the car, I've owned it going on 4 years and never had an issue with it.

If the car is shifting normal I so not believe it is your clutch. Sounds like a throwout bearing issue. Either way, you will have to drop your tranny so you may want to invest in a good clutch if you have high miles on your current setup.
 

Drew03

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I appreciate the feedback. What kind of recommendations do you have for a car that is only driven on the streets and never tracked?
 

Drew03

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Also from what I've been reading in other threads I've found is it actually the pilot bearing that needs to be replaced? The noise only happens when I press in the clutch even if I just slightly touch it. I've been reading the throw out bearing noise goes away when you press in the clutch.
 

Rich'sTRsvt

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I had pretty much the same symptoms and it turned out the TOB sleeve had completely broken off from the transmission. Just something to keep in mind, have one ready when you do the job so you aren't stuck waiting to get one.
 

Drew03

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To be safe I'll order the ford racing TOB and pilot bearing as well as the lethal performance TOB sleeve. If anyone has any recommendations of a different brand I'd like to hear feedback.
 

Rolltide2012

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To be safe I'll order the ford racing TOB and pilot bearing as well as the lethal performance TOB sleeve. If anyone has any recommendations of a different brand I'd like to hear feedback.


I believe you are making the correct decision. If you are happy with your current clutch and no issues other than the noise you are hearing changing those 3 parts will do no harm but should eliminate the noise. Don't forget to order your clutch alignment tool. 10.00 on american muscle or lmr.
 

Drew03

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I believe you are making the correct decision. If you are happy with your current clutch and no issues other than the noise you are hearing changing those 3 parts will do no harm but should eliminate the noise. Don't forget to order your clutch alignment tool. 10.00 on american muscle or lmr.

Thanks RollTide!
 

Rolltide2012

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Also, if you are not sure which spline you have you may want to order a 10 spline and a 26 spline tool and return the one you do not use. Beats ordering just one to find out you need the other.
 

Drew03

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Apparently the FRRP TOB and other clutch companies are made by the same company.

Svtshadow that doesn't surprise me in the least. I went with the ford racing bearings off the lethal site and the McLeod sleeve. I didn't see the lethal one on there anymore.
 

DSGNator

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I had a symphony of agonizing sounds coming from my clutch. I had enough of it and took to pulling the transmission. Originally my plan was to replace the pilot bearing, TOB, and retainer sleeve. Once I got everything out I found the culprits. My TOB was shot, it felt like it was filled with sand when you rotated it. My pilot bearing wasn't too bad but I replaced it anyway. I pulled out an aluminum Fidanza flywheel that was essentially broken. The ring gear that meshes with the starter had about 1/4 inch of play in it. I could literally hold it by the teeth and rattle the heck out of the plate. The old clutch was a Centerforce that had obviously seen better days. So I decided to order a Spec steel flywheel (don't hate, I'm happy with my choice) and a Spec Stage 3+ clutch without the soft pedal option. Not really sure why I didn't order it with soft pedal, but I still like the feel of it.

Anyway, my point is that I would have never known what was causing the noises had I not removed the transmission. That's the most accurate way to diagnose your problem. Removing the trans isn't too bad as long as you do your research and make sure you have the right tools! By right tools I mean a shit load of extensions and shallow swivel sockets.

If you decide to pull your transmission and need any pointers please don't hesitate to let me know. I just wrapped up this project yesterday so all my lessons learned are fresh in my mind.

Best of luck to you!
 

Rolltide2012

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I had a symphony of agonizing sounds coming from my clutch. I had enough of it and took to pulling the transmission. Originally my plan was to replace the pilot bearing, TOB, and retainer sleeve. Once I got everything out I found the culprits. My TOB was shot, it felt like it was filled with sand when you rotated it. My pilot bearing wasn't too bad but I replaced it anyway. I pulled out an aluminum Fidanza flywheel that was essentially broken. The ring gear that meshes with the starter had about 1/4 inch of play in it. I could literally hold it by the teeth and rattle the heck out of the plate. The old clutch was a Centerforce that had obviously seen better days. So I decided to order a Spec steel flywheel (don't hate, I'm happy with my choice) and a Spec Stage 3+ clutch without the soft pedal option. Not really sure why I didn't order it with soft pedal, but I still like the feel of it.



Anyway, my point is that I would have never known what was causing the noises had I not removed the transmission. That's the most accurate way to diagnose your problem. Removing the trans isn't too bad as long as you do your research and make sure you have the right tools! By right tools I mean a shit load of extensions and shallow swivel sockets.



If you decide to pull your transmission and need any pointers please don't hesitate to let me know. I just wrapped up this project yesterday so all my lessons learned are fresh in my mind.



Best of luck to you!


Agree! Just pulled my tranny to install a light pedal pressure plate on my spec3+ and its not too bad of a job. 7 hours with a lunch break. That is pulling the tranny inspecting tob pilot bearing, changing out plate and putting back together.
 

Drew03

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I had a symphony of agonizing sounds coming from my clutch. I had enough of it and took to pulling the transmission. Originally my plan was to replace the pilot bearing, TOB, and retainer sleeve. Once I got everything out I found the culprits. My TOB was shot, it felt like it was filled with sand when you rotated it. My pilot bearing wasn't too bad but I replaced it anyway. I pulled out an aluminum Fidanza flywheel that was essentially broken. The ring gear that meshes with the starter had about 1/4 inch of play in it. I could literally hold it by the teeth and rattle the heck out of the plate. The old clutch was a Centerforce that had obviously seen better days. So I decided to order a Spec steel flywheel (don't hate, I'm happy with my choice) and a Spec Stage 3+ clutch without the soft pedal option. Not really sure why I didn't order it with soft pedal, but I still like the feel of it.

Anyway, my point is that I would have never known what was causing the noises had I not removed the transmission. That's the most accurate way to diagnose your problem. Removing the trans isn't too bad as long as you do your research and make sure you have the right tools! By right tools I mean a shit load of extensions and shallow swivel sockets.

If you decide to pull your transmission and need any pointers please don't hesitate to let me know. I just wrapped up this project yesterday so all my lessons learned are fresh in my mind.

Best of luck to you!

I really appreciate that DSGNator. The parts are on the way so hopefully it can be tackled this weekend. I'll definitely take u up on it if there's troubleshooting to be done. I like the feel of my clutch and don't wanna spend the extra money just yet. But like you said after opening it up further damage could be found.
 

Avispa

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I decided to order a Spec steel flywheel (don't hate, I'm happy with my choice) and a Spec Stage 3+ clutch without the soft pedal option. Not really sure why I didn't order it with soft pedal, but I still like the feel of it.

Don't let anyone give you grief about the steel flywheel. Aluminum ones rev faster but that's only with no load on the engine. You won't notice any difference with the engine under load, except maybe easier starting from a dead stop from the extra stored energy in the heavier steel wheel.
 

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