Clutch Problem with Stock Cable Replacement

midtex01gt

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Okay. I have done the searches through all the forums, and seem to be having a little problem. I snapped the stock cable on the car last week, and it sat at my Ford dealership for a week awaiting a new one. After the clutch cable was reinstalled, the grab point of the clutch was nearly at the top of the clutch travel. Now the clutch just spins and doesn't grab when the car is under boost. I have a 26 spine, stage 3 clutch, with not all that many miles on it, and the clutch was grabbing just fine before the car went into the shop.


....there isn't any burned smell from the clutch that would indicate that the clutch is burned/burning up. But the clutch quadrant won't seem to adjust since the problem isn't the clutch not fully disengaging, but rather not fully ENGAGING the clutch because of the grab point being changed.

I have some buddies right now working on the clutch attempting to adjust it, but they are having hell using the writeup from corral.net as a guideline.


HELP ME OUT! Or do I need to buy a firewall adj? Please tell me the clutch isn't toast, or I will be cussin away!!:fart:
 

svt4cobra6

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You could try to pull up on the clutch pedal, if this does not work, may have to get the adjust firewall or if you have an aftermarket quadrant try using the other tab to attatch the cable.
 

Ex President

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Somehow or another the clutch has adjusted itself all the way to the top, making it so that it's not completely engaged when the pedal is released. From what you've described, the CLUTCH IS SLIPPING when you are hammering on it even if you don't smell it, and I WOULDN'T BEAT ON IT AGAIN until you get some play in the cable.

If you don't have a firewall adjuster, just climb under the dash and work the "self adjuster" yourself until you get it right. You should have at least 1/2" of play at the top of your pedal travel.
 

midtex01gt

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Yeah, because it seems that if I lift up on the pedal, that would make my problem WORSE. I actually need to push the pedal inward in order to make the quadrant turn clockwise while looking at it from the passenger footwell to allow the cable to release more into the clutch housing.

Lifting the pedal is for when the clutch is grabbing TOO SOON if my physics are correct...
 

svt4cobra6

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yep I think you are correct, lifting the pedal would only help if the clutch was disenguaging near the floor. It sounds like you need more play in the cable or quadurant.
 

SnakeBit

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If you replace the stock quadrant, you'll also need a firewall adjuster. I would recommend the Fiore F/W adjuster for sure. For a quadrant, there are several options. I am using the Fiore quadrant, but it's similar to the Steeda or UPR or MM quadrant. Steeda (and UPR as well) also make a Quick Release quadrant. It has a steeper curve and requires less pedal movement for any given clutch movement.

I also recommend the LDC Freeplay Spring. Lethal Performance sells all of these things, so just give them a call.

The stock cable will need to be modified at the firewall. You can find pictures and instructions at the Maximum Motorstorts site, click on "Installation Instructions", then MMCL-3 under "Drivetrain & Clutch Components to see some detailed pictures on the oem cable modifications needed.
 

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NOTE: The "speed release" quadrant WILL ONLY WORK WITH AN ADJUSTABLE CABLE.

I would reccomend staying with the stock cable though as it is a quality piece. Just get the Steeda quadrant and a reputable firewall adjuster, and you'll be back in business.
 

JBN

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Jeremy, i'd get the Fiore F/W and any of the triple hooks. Give me a call when you get them in and i'll come help you with them.

-J.
 

SnakeBit

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NOTE: The "speed release" quadrant WILL ONLY WORK WITH AN ADJUSTABLE CABLE.
Not so. There are several on here with Spec 3 clutches and stock cables using the QR quadrant. In fact, they had trouble with the standard quadrant getting adjusted properly.
 

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