Clutch Recommendations for Daily Driving

NWCobra

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I picked up a 1997 Cobra convertible with 125k on the clock recently. It was known at the time of purchase that the throwout bearing was shot. The clutch is also still original, so I plan to do clutch, throwout bearing, and rear main seal all at the same time. This is an otherwise stock car, and my plan is to always keep it NA - really just revitalize it and get it running smoothly. I've extensively read through the forums and I'm leaning towards a Pro Motion clutch. As I don't currently plan to hit big HP numbers, I am looking at 10.5", 10spl, rated to 385HP. My questions are as follows:
  1. Does anyone have any experience with how stiff I can expect a Pro Motion clutch to be versus OEM? I daily drive my Cobra in Houston traffic, and considering my goals with the car I prioritize comfort over ability to handle high HP.
  2. Are there any other clutches I should consider? I also read great things about Centerforce but they come with a much higher price tag.
  3. Are there any other items I should consider checking or replacing when I do this work? If I have everything apart I might as well make a day out of it.
  4. Transmission fluid recommendations?
This forum has been a wealth of information so far, thanks in advance to everyone for their insight!
 

Tillerman77

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Admire an owner who wants to keep their stock Cobra basically stock, but running the best that it can. I fit in that category as well.

Regarding your clutch query, can't you still get an OEM equivalent clutch? If the car managed 125K on the original, it sounds like that would give you a known stiffness, especially for your stated goals. Stay with an OEM clutch cable if you were considering replacing it.

I use Amsoil ATF in my 97 Cobra's T45. Works fine.
 

96GT226410

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I don't have any experience with Pro Motion, but as long as it's a stock style clutch then pedal effort should be minimal. While you're there you should look into changing your pilot bearing, clutch fork, pivot ball, and your exhaust since the mid pipe will be removed to drop the trans. Definitely check the clutch cable, too.

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shurur

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If you are staying oem HP or even a bit more, McLeod super street or street clutch...with their AL flywheel.
I would replace the rear main seal as well.

maybe add the MM clutch cable a quadrant as well as the pedal adjuster
 
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NWCobra

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I appreciate the responses! It looks like I'm likely better off with an OEM or very slightly upgraded from OEM clutch.

If you are staying oem HP or even a bit more, McLeod super street or street clutch...with their AL flywheel.

I see that the McLeod is well rated on American Muscle. I see from your signature you have the Exedy Mach 5 clutch in your car, the Exedy Mach 350 Stage 1 clutch is also well rated and includes the throwout bear and pilot bearing. How has your experience been with your Mach 5? I do understand it will be different considering yours is different materials and much higher performance - but overall reliability.

It looks like I should update my list to include:
  1. Clutch
  2. Clutch Cable
  3. Consider: Clutch Quadrant + Firewall Adjuster upgrade
  4. Throwout bearing
  5. Pilot bearing
  6. Clutch Fork
  7. Pivot Ball
  8. Consider: Mid Pipes + Cat Back
 

shurur

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I appreciate the responses! It looks like I'm likely better off with an OEM or very slightly upgraded from OEM clutch.



I see that the McLeod is well rated on American Muscle. I see from your signature you have the Exedy Mach 5 clutch in your car, the Exedy Mach 350 Stage 1 clutch is also well rated and includes the throwout bear and pilot bearing. How has your experience been with your Mach 5? I do understand it will be different considering yours is different materials and much higher performance - but overall reliability.

It looks like I should update my list to include:
  1. Clutch
  2. Clutch Cable
  3. Consider: Clutch Quadrant + Firewall Adjuster upgrade
  4. Throwout bearing
  5. Pilot bearing
  6. Clutch Fork
  7. Pivot Ball
  8. Consider: Mid Pipes + Cat Back
Exedy 500 is Very good clutch, but a bear to shift as it is very stiff.
I had hoped to put in a Lakewood shift arm to help with it, but i didn't provide the shop with the extended bolt needed. It may have helped. I don't know. Also wondering about whether I can go custom hydraulic and dump the cable..
I am still looking into whether there is a way to do it without pulling the tranny. It is another think I need to learn how to do.
That is why I was hesitant to recommend it.

It is a great clutch otherwise.
The 350 may be fine and not so hard on the clutch leg, much like the pro street.

BTW, I got mine on ebay for cheaper by cross referencing the part number.

I had the McLeod street or pro street before and it was good, but only got 50k out of it because original mechanic who installed it clearly burned it up joy riding her behind my back. I still have the AL flywheel from McLeod. They resurfaced it for $75. It is a nice piece. https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/flywheel-failure.1174232/

All my clutches go well over 100k when I am the sole driver.

I would include the rear main seal as well
Also maybe consider long tubes...but then you are beginning to go down the mod rabbit hole and it never ends....my mod list is common among all the mod addicts on this forum.
 
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1996MysticSnake

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Get a king Cobra clutch, holds more than stock and similar pedal feel and very reliable. Resurface or replace the stock flywheel with another steel unit.

Get an oem cable and mm firewall adjuster and quadrant and you will be set.

If your doing it yourself i would recommend getting a ram pilot bushing instead of a regular Ford pilot bearing. The t45 is a pita to stab in cause you can't remove the Bellhousing. It's really easy to knock the bearings out of the stock pilot bearing. The bushing you don't have to worry about it at all.

Get a timken throwout bearing

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dkblue98gt

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I have the Exedy Mach 500 with an Exedy lightweight flywheel in my car. I feel like it has excellent street manners, no chatter at all. The pedal effort is fine, not overly stiff. I have the stock clutch cable with a Steeda Quadrant and a firewall adjuster. I recommend using a Motorcraft throwout bearing. My motor is stock except for intake and exhaust. I went with the Mach 500 because the flywheel is drilled for a 10.5 or 11" clutch and someday I may add more power.
 

scottydsntknow

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Exedy Mach 400 11" clutch, upgrade the flywheel to 11". OEM 8 bolt Coyote flywheel works perfect, you just need to knock out the Coyote dowel pins and tap in the staggered dowel pins for our years. I've used the Mach 400 clutches on anything with a stock engine for years and they all are great. Grip great, rated for 500ft lbs at the flywheel which is all the stock engine is gonna take anyway at most, price is right and quality is excellent.

Car in my sig has a JY 4V with a Mach 400 clutch and I shift it at 7K+ regularly, never misses a beat.
 

NWCobra

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Thanks everyone for the recommendations! I'm narrowing it down. The tip on Ebay is great, but I'm a little nervous about some of the products as they're significantly cheaper than AmericanMuscle, LMR, CJ, etc. But I suppose the saying "you get what you pay for" likely applies here.

I had a chance to take some pictures of the car today! Needs a wash and a good polish on the headlights, but here she is in all her glory:

IMG_0890.jpg


IMG_0884a.jpg


IMG_0882a.jpg
 

NWCobra

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White verts unite! I've got the white top though. Yours is looking very clean. Those wheels go well.

IMG_0898a.jpg


Got a chance to get the headlights cleaned up today!
20190505_101659compA.jpg
 

scottydsntknow

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Thanks everyone for the recommendations! I'm narrowing it down. The tip on Ebay is great, but I'm a little nervous about some of the products as they're significantly cheaper than AmericanMuscle, LMR, CJ, etc. But I suppose the saying "you get what you pay for" likely applies here.

I had a chance to take some pictures of the car today! Needs a wash and a good polish on the headlights, but here she is in all her glory:

View attachment 1570870

View attachment 1570871

View attachment 1570872

There actually are no real "King Cobra" clutches anymore if that is what you are looking for on ebay. FRPP stopped making them awhile ago. What you are seeing is likely just a white box Valeo/Luk/Exedy basic clutch which is probably fine. That said, if you are going to go with a cheap clutch, get on Rockauto and go with a Luk Gold clutch, I think they are like $150 or less. I still stand by my recommendation of an Exedy Mach 400. Best "oem style 10 spline" clutch available IMO. Its rated to the snapping point of the input shaft so anything more expensive or advertising stronger is a waste of money.

Also don't buy from American Muscle, they have gone to complete shit. Buy from LMR or CJP or Jegs or Summit. Here is the clutch I am recommending at LMR.

Exedy Mustang Mach 400 Stage 1 Clutch Kit - 11" - 10 Spline (99-04) 4.6 07805

Pretty sure they have a 6% forum discount.

Match with an 11" flywheel, put in a new pivot ball and clutch fork if your car is higher mileage and make sure the cable you have is an OEM cable.
 

NWCobra

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Thanks for the input! Just to verify - the 11" clutch kit can be installed as long as an 11" flywheel goes with it? Are there any other parts needed specifically for the 10.5" to 11" upgrade?

That said, if you are going to go with a cheap clutch, get on Rockauto and go with a Luk Gold clutch, I think they are like $150 or less.

I don't see a "Luk Gold" option available anymore, are there any other recommendations for cheap clutches for comparison? Also, I'm not seeing flywheels manufactured by any of the budget brands and I want to make sure I'm matching brands there. The only matching sets are the Valeo kits on ebay that include a steel flywheel. I'm putting a parts list together and to pick up an Exedy Mach 400 or McLeod Street Pro clutch kit (w/ TO bearing) + steel flywheel is in the $600 range, the only thing that comes in cheaper are ebay kits at ~$400 - but I think the peace of mind of having quality parts is worth the $200 gap.

Obviously overthinking this a bit, but want to make sure I'm making the most informed decision when getting everything fixed up.
 

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