Cobra R #181 information and questions

JoeAsheville

Asheville NC-Bohemian Wonderland
Established Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2002
Messages
1,912
Location
Northwest GA
The car was originally purchased Christmas eve 1996 and driven from Texas to south Florida (think Fort Myers area) where it appears to have been driven regularly...no mean feat for a car with no air conditioning in such a southern tropical clime. That owner, #1, passed away and owner #2 purchased from the estate of owner #1. Owner #2 kept the car for a year, stored, in the Minneapolis area and rarely drove it. I purchased the car from owner #2 and drove it back non-stop from Minnesota to Georgia, a 1000 mile trip.

Over the course of the trip, some interesting traits emerged.

-upon brisk acceleration, at each shift change there is an unusual noise that sounds suspiciously like a blow off valve. However, the car is original and is still NA. Could this be a by product of the "air cavitation" issue I've read about, regarding the upper manifold? The exhaust is completely stock and dead quiet.

-the rear axle hops like mad, especially on the large undulating whoops present up north. Is the car undersprung, underdamped, or both? If underdamped, I can dial that up (I hope)...not sure what the settings are on the shocks presently.

-rear suspension is extremely loose. A 302 1995 Cobra I previously owned exhibited this same trait. It can turn into a dangerous oscillation, similar to a tank-slapper, by steering the car from the rear axle similar to a Hyster. I remedied this on the other car by increasing the durometer of the bushings in the lower 4 link bars. Other than a panhard, what have others done to fix this?

-previous owner had the sail panels surrounding the quarter windows repainted along with the top parts of the rear quarter panels. During this operation, apparently part of the fixings for the headliner were missed and the headliner is sagging on the edges close to the windows. How to fix? Disassemble and re install?

-wheel finish is poor due to years of salt corrosion in south Florida. The paint is bubbling. I intend to refinish, even though the car is intended to be a driver. Would this salt air oxidization damage the integrity of an aluminum wheel? The car is rust free otherwise, save for the odd bolt head here and there.

-has anyone had any luck with sanding and repainting the front and rear bumper fascias? There are numerous star breaks in the paint, although the material appears otherwise intact. I suppose flex agent in paint only does so much.
 
Last edited:

JoeAsheville

Asheville NC-Bohemian Wonderland
Established Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2002
Messages
1,912
Location
Northwest GA
Looks like just about any other R model from 20 feet, eh?

152c351195a1e39a0e43d6c4cc1a7786.jpg
 

mrmustang

Husband/Father/Son
Established Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2003
Messages
1,125
Location
Greenville County, SC
The first thing I installed on my second 95 "R" was a Panhard bar, which my first car had already installed on it when I purchased it. Makes the car "feel" firmer in the corners, far more predictable as well.

Blow off sound could be a vacuum line leak/dryrot crack, my advice is to start teching the car, start at the top, work you way down to the chassis, then from front to back. Fuel lines, brake lines, radiator hoses, belts, etc and so forth.

Rims, yes, susceptible to surface corrosion which can cause the paint to bubble.

Finally, front and rear bumpers should come off to be properly painted, wiped down a few times with dewaxer/degreaser (automotive use only), then sanded as needed (400-1,000 grit), wiped down, washed off, wiped down again, then hit with a grey scotchbrite pad, wiped down again, then shot with the proper base/clear with a flex agent added to the mix.

Hope you find this helpful.

Bill S.

PS: How did you enjoy being serenaded by all of the road grit on the way back :D
 

1995COBRA-R

20 Year Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
May 7, 2003
Messages
4,318
Location
Sandy Springs, GA
-upon brisk acceleration, at each shift change there is an unusual noise that sounds suspiciously like a blow off valve. However, the car is original and is still NA. Could this be a by product of the "air cavitation" issue I've read about, regarding the upper manifold? The exhaust is completely stock and dead quiet.

That seems like the sound of mine. It could be due to the "clatter" or "rattle" that was a common in a Jack Roush engine. It is explained on p.82 of the "SVT Mustang Cobra Recognition Guide (1993-2000)". Car and Driver magazine called it as "nickels in a Folgers can". It happens from 2000-3000 Rpm.

Roush Racing built the engines with some loose cylinder/ring specs.

-the rear axle hops like mad, especially on the large undulating whoops present up north. Is the car undersprung, underdamped, or both? If underdamped, I can dial that up (I hope)...not sure what the settings are on the shocks presently.

It's just my guess, but I am going with worn out rear shocks. It could be the bad roads up north. You need to drive it in the north GA mountains in the Six Gaps to figure this out. I've only been arrested there twice. ;-)

SixGapRG.gif


-rear suspension is extremely loose.

Hey, you need more grip back there. :read: You could fit a sticky modern tire. But don't get it too tight in the North GA mountains. :rolling:

I know how much you paid. It's a factory race car as you bought it. You got a great car. I say enjoy it.
 

JoeAsheville

Asheville NC-Bohemian Wonderland
Established Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2002
Messages
1,912
Location
Northwest GA
Oh, agreed. I'm not planning on making some shoot for the moon mods here...the rear steer is pronounced enough to make it a safety hazard. It certainly appears that Koni supplied the suspension components dialed to the lowest level, and I wouldn't think Ford would do anything other than just bolt them on, so...I'll just try to get the rears dialed in and go from there. I bet they are at full soft. The higher durometer bushings should help the rear steer. I'll stop at that point...I'm planning on running the car in super street autocross in stock class, so I can't do much of anything really.

Regarding grip...can you believe that the guy in Minnesota paid for new stock type shoes six months ago? They are still super pliable...G-Force comp T/As in the original 255mm width. They are still pretty sticky, but look ridiculous on a 7 inch rim. I'm planning on wearing them out though, which will take quite a while.
 
Last edited:

JoeAsheville

Asheville NC-Bohemian Wonderland
Established Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2002
Messages
1,912
Location
Northwest GA
Bill...the road grit was terrible in Minnesota. I didn't get even a single mile down the road before being passed by some Yahoo who showered the car with gravel. Grrrrr.

Good advice on teching the car...it needs it. There has been no appreciable TLC since it was dragged from the barn in south Florida years ago. I need to make sure that the car is safe before I trust it further...I'm happy I made it home in one piece.

This is the tech level of (one of?) the previous owners: the lift struts for the decklid were mounted backwards on both sides. This made it super difficult to open the trunk, and it wouldn't stay open. This, of course, was a simple and easy fix. However, the fact that it existed at all makes me cringe to wonder exactly what else is lurking on #181. I have a feeling I'll need to be super thorough.
 
Last edited:

JoeAsheville

Asheville NC-Bohemian Wonderland
Established Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2002
Messages
1,912
Location
Northwest GA
Does the car have black seats or is that just a shadow?
Just a shadow. Those are the factory buckets, yessir...and my backside has a 1000 mile imprint of the mouse fur from earlier in the week. The driver's seat is absolutely worn out, the passengers seat is still in good shape apart from a couple of cigarette burns in the mouse fur.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

1995COBRA-R

20 Year Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
May 7, 2003
Messages
4,318
Location
Sandy Springs, GA
...the rear steer is pronounced enough to make it a safety hazard. It certainly appears that Koni supplied the suspension components dialed to the lowest level....and I wouldn't think Ford would do anything other than just bolt them on, so...I'll just try to get the rears dialed in and go from there. I bet they are at full soft.

Hey,
There is a factory Koni tool that came with every car. It's only for the shocks. The adjustment is only minor. The rest is factory SN95 stuff (with slightly different spring rates).

I have owned and raced these cars for many years. They are mostly tight from the factory (understeer). I spent most of the last many years dailing out this underdersteer. I think bad oversteer (loose) may be easier to deal with (if the frame is straight). ;-)

Please tell me what tires are on the front and rear? Where they made in the last couple of years?

Since the HSR Mitty is next weekend; I had a go with this car two years ago:
21Snipes.jpg


It was fast as shit. I got scared going into Road Atlanta T-12 at 100+ Mph with the car.
 

JoeAsheville

Asheville NC-Bohemian Wonderland
Established Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2002
Messages
1,912
Location
Northwest GA
Hahaha...I bet you did.

The shoes are 1 year old factory spec BFG G Force, stock sizes. They are very grippy. From what I can tell on the Koni website about adjusting those rear shocks...all I need is something that can rotate what appears to be a ring adjuster with holes for a tool. The Penske shock on our sport touring bike is adjusted the same way. I believe it's called a "pin spanner".

I stole some time to work on adjusting the rear shocks tonight and didn't get very far. The car is missing the McGard lock key...$&##&*%T!!!!! I hate to think what would have happened during the trip back had I encountered a flat. I can't even get the damn wheels off the car!

Ignorance is surely bliss...I thought I was prepared for the trip with a belt and all hoses in a box in the back with the tools.

I'm going to attempt to get the lock key prior to the Mitty. If I can't get it, the car is staying in the garage and I'll be driving something else. Pity.

EDIT: found the lock key pouch and the key numbers, it's on the way after ordering off the McGard website. It was surprisingly simple and easy. The only wrinkle is if it doesn't fit after it gets here for whatever reason.
 
Last edited:

JoeAsheville

Asheville NC-Bohemian Wonderland
Established Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2002
Messages
1,912
Location
Northwest GA
Since the HSR Mitty is next weekend; I had a go with this car two years ago:
21Snipes.jpg


It was fast as shit. I got scared going into Road Atlanta T-12 at 100+ Mph with the car.

Looking like 50/50 chance of rain this far out at the Mitty, Doc. I'm still teetering on the fence about driving the R, but I'll likely still make it unless the chance tops 60%. I've been out there when it was a deluge complete with river running across turn 1 (as you likely also have)...it wasn't exactly fun. The red GA clay just never seems to come out of clothes, under fingernails, and out of undercarriages.
 

1995COBRA-R

20 Year Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
May 7, 2003
Messages
4,318
Location
Sandy Springs, GA
1 year old factory spec BFG G Force, stock sizes. They are very grippy.

Joe,
BFG hasn't made the P255-45-17 tire in many years. I just sold my extra tires to a member here.

I have a couple of 275-40-17 racing tires that I will give you (Toya). They have one weekend on them.

I'd be glad to follow you thru the Six Gap.
 
Last edited:

JoeAsheville

Asheville NC-Bohemian Wonderland
Established Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2002
Messages
1,912
Location
Northwest GA
Really? I'm surprised...no dry rot, very pliable. I'll be happy with the Toyos though, thank you...I was looking at those for the stock class as a sensible sized retrofit.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

flattrack53

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2008
Messages
3,585
Location
Maryland
I just ordered a set of Toyo Proxes R888... After reading all of the reviews, I can't wait to get them!
 

JoeAsheville

Asheville NC-Bohemian Wonderland
Established Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2002
Messages
1,912
Location
Northwest GA
Happy to report that adjusting the rear shocks was a cinch...the Koni online literature for these series shocks made it appear that removal from the car was required. I was pleasantly surprised to see the same method of adjustment is employed for the rear shocks as is for the front struts. Increasing the damping to 50% from full soft made a world of difference, I'm planning on dialing it back to 35-40% to get a skosh more roll compliance at the rear for that live axle, and increasing the front from full soft to about 20%...the front spring rates are killer and the wheel rates are already fairly high.

Disappointed to report that each wheel was fused to the brake disc, as much as being dissimilar metals with a NaCl catalyst and the fact that each wheel had a collection of water behind the medallion. I believe the wheels are going to need a lot of TLC.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

JoeAsheville

Asheville NC-Bohemian Wonderland
Established Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2002
Messages
1,912
Location
Northwest GA
Had the day off today and snuck off to one of my local twisty backroads to test the settings on the Konis. This thing is a HOOT. I like the 03, but the R model feels less like it's going to jump up and bite me in the ass, and more like "heck yeah son, let's get this party started"! The 03 feels like it's about to swap ends with me if I drive it hard.

Doc, I can see why you got arrested (twice!) somewhere in the Six Gaps loop :banana:
 

1995COBRA-R

20 Year Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
May 7, 2003
Messages
4,318
Location
Sandy Springs, GA
Really? I'm surprised...no dry rot, very pliable. I'll be happy with the Toyos though, thank you...

Joe,
I have a climate controlled basement. The tires last longer here with no sunlight and stable temps.

I'll be at the Mitty in my gray Porsche. My 95R doesn't have a current GA tag. ;)
 

1995COBRA-R

20 Year Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
May 7, 2003
Messages
4,318
Location
Sandy Springs, GA
Happy to report that adjusting the rear shocks was a cinch...the Koni online literature for these series shocks made it appear that removal from the car was required. I was pleasantly surprised to see the same method of adjustment is employed for the rear shocks as is for the front struts. Increasing the damping to 50% from full soft made a world of difference, I'm planning on dialing it back to 35-40% to get a skosh more roll compliance at the rear for that live axle, and increasing the front from full soft to about 20%...the front spring rates are killer and the wheel rates are already fairly high.

That is nice tech, but you lost me on skosh roll. :-D

Nonetheless, please keep everyone up to date here. Your tech is interesting.

Disappointed to report that each wheel was fused to the brake disc, as much as being dissimilar metals with a NaCl catalyst and the fact that each wheel had a collection of water behind the medallion. I believe the wheels are going to need a lot of TLC.
I am thinking that they will separate with some lubricate and some patience?
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top