For starters I gotta tell ya I have a 1st & 2nd Gen, the 2nd kickin' 670 HP, but there is just something about my red 95 that I just love driving it around. Hell, most people don't even know what they are!!! Anyway, have any of you Gen 1's raised your compression and if so how, and to what ratio. The more I check into modding this truck the more I see big dollars for an engine management conversion. It seems that a sizeable boost in comp. ratio would deliver some pretty good power without getting too nuts in the $$$$$. Thanks............
compression ratio
- Thread starter smilinjack
- Start date
Engine management conversion?You mean mass air?The stock computer with a tweecer has got guys into the 10s so i don't think you'll need to be buying an engine management system unless you're planning on going crazy modding.
What kind of power are you wanting to make and whats your budget?
What kind of power are you wanting to make and whats your budget?
Hey Matt, right now I've got some 13.75 time slips that I'd like to trade for 12's. I've got no serious mods other than a 100 shot of juice(which came with the truck). I think I'd like to remove the juice and bring her into the 12's on motor only. What are the most effective mods on these beauties short of s/c? I think I'd like to stay under $2000 if at all possible. I assume this tweecer thing is not a mass air conversion. Is there a down side to using this system? What kind of cost are they?? Thanks
A twEEcer is comparable to something like a diablo handheld for you gen 2 guys, I'm pretty sure. The only downside to using this system is taht you're tuning your own, so the learning curve maybe steep. I believe they are around $350-400, many of the guys over on the nloc stick with the speed density and using this instead of a chip for their tuning needs. A LM-1 Wideband Commander wouldn't hurt either if you want to get a accurate a/f ratio. -Josh
Aloha Josh and mahalo! (?) Would there be a learning curve for a Tuner too? I don't mind paying for the tune, I just didn't want to spend a fortune to get tune-able. You've no doubt been into the Gen 1's longer than me.....whats the word on the most efficient mods? Jack
Most efficient mods? -Most will say just stick a blower on there. Most worthwhile mods, that I've heard-FTVB, Traction bars (LFP), but those will only net yet minimal gains. If you want to go all motor, running 12's, you could just stroke it out, to a 357, 383, 393, or even a 408. I don't think just heads and cam, with all the other small mods (efans, slicks, and the aforementioned mods) will get you there, prolly only mid-low 13's. But I'm no expert, this is just my 2 cents. Good Luck.
Getting 12s n/a is going to cost quite a bit more than 2000.It'll probally require a stroker kit(Only know of one guy thts done it without one) and good heads/cam combo along with pretty much all the basic boltons.I'd start buy getting agood set of heads and a matching cam that should net you around 100 fwhp.
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I'm pretty sure the L's have gt40 heads. Have they been modding the stock heads or using the aftermarket variety. Does yours hesitate when you rev it? I've been trying to figure out why mine does.
Yes, the L's have gt40 heads stock. Porting them out, is not worth it, so I've heard. Just buy a good out of box head like AFR 185's (what a lot of guys run, and I plan to as well) or the twisted wedge heads (a lot of guys run these as well). How bad would you say the hesitation is?
It almost seems like it needs a tune up, it doesn't, like the old carburetor hesitation with no compression ratio!!! I didn't think the computer motors would have that disease. So, okay, what is the opinion on aftermarket heads? Is the cam a must do with a head swap? And how does the trans hold up under increased power? Any and all input is appreciated. I prefer to do the final plan and work toward it, so if you guys will share what you've done and the results you've gotten I promise I'll give ya a run at the track when I see ya!! Thanks, Jack 
epper: epper:
epper: epper:Hey, not sure about if a cam is needed, but the transmition to my knowledge can take a lot.
we had sal here in kansas city for a dyno day and tune. i personally saw him give a gen 1 40 rwhp with a diablo chip and one of his tunes. so there's alot there to be had by just tuning what you've got. also, exhaust does alot for these trucks.
The hesitation may just be the egr you could cap the egr vacumn line and see if that's the problem.I'd also try bumping he timming up to 14* to see if that helps it.
Lightnings tranny's hold up well mine is stock other than a valvebody and i've made over 100(probally 200)passes at the local dragstrip with 105k miles and its holding up well.
With the stock heads/cam you'll have a hard time breaking into the high 13s n/a.
Lightnings tranny's hold up well mine is stock other than a valvebody and i've made over 100(probally 200)passes at the local dragstrip with 105k miles and its holding up well.
With the stock heads/cam you'll have a hard time breaking into the high 13s n/a.
Hey Matt, 2 questions. Where would I cap the EGR line (and it just a test or a permanent change) and what kind of power are you pushing thru your tranny? Thanks, Jack
The EGR valve is on the spacer behind the throttlebody just unplug it and drive it a bit if the hesitation goes away then there's probally a problem with your egr.
I've never dynoed my truck but it runs high 13s/low 14s at around 95mph.There are guys well into the 11s on stock E4od's.
The egr was(I deleted it) where the little blue plate is on the end of my intake manifold
I've never dynoed my truck but it runs high 13s/low 14s at around 95mph.There are guys well into the 11s on stock E4od's.
The egr was(I deleted it) where the little blue plate is on the end of my intake manifold
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Matt, did you make your own egr blockoff, or did you buy it? Jack, might as well do the cam while your doing the heads Do you have a roller block? I would worry about the rear end before I worry bout the tranny. -Josh
Do you have a roller block? I would worry about the rear end before I worry bout the tranny. -Josh
Made the block off don't delete it without a chip or a tuner to shut the egr/thermocater off.He has a 95 so it should be a roller block.
Thanks for the replies guys. You gotta love the internet and all the contacts you can make!
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