Has anyone replaced thier thermostat with a cooler one? Was wondering what kind of work is involved and are there any quirks I might want to look out for.:shrug: :coolman:
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Cooler Thermostat
- Thread starter missile man
- Start date
The T-stat sits in a small housing on drivers side in the hose. There is nothing but a small "O" ring. Be carefull not to overtighten it or it will leak. I have the 180 in mine. Going too cold may cause problems. Make sure to "burp" system by filling fuild on the black "stove pipe" to get air out of system or you will overheat.
The Stock T stat is a 180
Radiator Cap Pressure Test Specifications 110 kPa (16 psi)
Thermostat Opening Temperatures
Starts to open (Cobra) 80-83°C (175-182F°)
Fully open 104°C (219F°)
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i'd like to know also in this texas heat it sucks
id like to know too. the cooler the better
can't u do it with a chip?
m.
m.
Thanks for the responses so far. I am more concerned with the longevity of the engine but won't mind the extra HP. Doesn't sound too hard. Does anyone know where to order the 160 degree T-stat?
South Florida Pulley Headquaters has them..
Thanks!!! i'm ordering.
you mean to change the speed/temp they turn on at? That has to be done with a chip.
I thought I read that just changing the thermostat would not make much difference or any at all? I thought in addition to the lower temp thermostat you also needed to program the ECU to kick the cooling fans on to see any benefit? :shrug:
U.M.
U.M.
I ran a 160 in my 95 s/c cobra and the difference was night and day before I chipped it. After I got it dyno tuned with a new chip and the fans came on sooner, the temp would barely reach the 'O' in NORMAL on the temp guage. I don't know why a T-stat wouldn't work the same on these cars.
Here's three ways the lower t-stat could help without worrying about ECU programming:
1) If you are concerned your car is running hot on hot days, then you probably have your A/C on, which means the fan is on all the time regardless of engine temp.
2) If your A/C is not on, by the time the water temperature gets to the point of turning the fan on, the thermostat is much farther open than the stock t-stat, allowing more water to flow, improving the cooling.
3) Do the fan switch mod ($5) and don't worry about when the ECU turns on the fans--you control it.
Just a slight warning: to those of you with the overheating problem, I'm not sure how Ford will repsond with overheating warrenty issues when you have replaced the t-stat with one outside their specs.
1) If you are concerned your car is running hot on hot days, then you probably have your A/C on, which means the fan is on all the time regardless of engine temp.
2) If your A/C is not on, by the time the water temperature gets to the point of turning the fan on, the thermostat is much farther open than the stock t-stat, allowing more water to flow, improving the cooling.
3) Do the fan switch mod ($5) and don't worry about when the ECU turns on the fans--you control it.
Just a slight warning: to those of you with the overheating problem, I'm not sure how Ford will repsond with overheating warrenty issues when you have replaced the t-stat with one outside their specs.
Tempest, Great point on the warranty issue, I have 2 years left on mine and don't want to mess up. I will order the t-stat and report back on what happens.
Uncle Meat, Where is Prattville AL?
I am not sure it is worth the hassle. I have one from South Florida Pulley, but have not installed it as yet. No overheating issues even when it is 110 and the A/C is on.
Hypertech Powerstat 160 #HYP1011 from Team C Performance Center <http://www.teamc.com/>.
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