Corner Carving, Road Course Racing and general Handling Thread

TrackpackGT

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Konis are on sale at Steeda right now, probably a few other places too. I got a great deal at Carid.
 

5lho

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I find the car is more affected by bumps mid corner than anything else, anything I can do to help location of the rear has assisted with that. I do not find the car loose after effectively stiffening the rear bar. I would think that stiffening the rear bar would induce more push up front, if anything but, I don't sense that either... it seems to have reduced in-corner weight transfer on power input and that's keeping the inside front planted a bit harder. Maybe I don't know what I'm talking about since it's all butt-dyno road driving and I'm not a corner-carving champ. Let me know if I am out of it.

If anything, even with BBP, the spring rates are a little soft out back, it feels, and the bar keeps the body roll and squatting on powering out of a turn down a bit.
 

torchred02gt

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What are you guys running on your front sway bar for road course versus autocross?

My front sway stays at full stiff. It's a band-aid fix really for not having enough front spring rate. The only way to get close to enough front spring rate is to go with coil overs with a spring rate of 450+ depending on your goals. I've played with the settings but full stiff is what works for me.
 

torchred02gt

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I find the car is more affected by bumps mid corner than anything else, anything I can do to help location of the rear has assisted with that. I do not find the car loose after effectively stiffening the rear bar. I would think that stiffening the rear bar would induce more push up front, if anything but, I don't sense that either... it seems to have reduced in-corner weight transfer on power input and that's keeping the inside front planted a bit harder. Maybe I don't know what I'm talking about since it's all butt-dyno road driving and I'm not a corner-carving champ. Let me know if I am out of it.

If anything, even with BBP, the spring rates are a little soft out back, it feels, and the bar keeps the body roll and squatting on powering out of a turn down a bit.

BBP?

And yes. That's the panhard bar at work. The axle wiggles over bumps mid corner. A watts link will help with that.
 

DSG2003SVT

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Brembo Brake Package = BBP I assume.

I figured you had the FSB on full stiff. That's usually what these cars need, more front and less rear stiffness for stability at speed. However, there's absolutely nothing wrong with running the rear full stiff for autocross to keep the car loose.

If your car isn't purpose built, adjustable sway bars are some of the best tuning tools to adjust your car for the task at hand. It's essentially the same thing as changing your spring rate.
 
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torchred02gt

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Brembo Brake Package = BBP I assume.

I figured you had the FSB on full stiff. That's usually what these cars need, more front and less rear stiffness for stability at speed. However, there's absolutely nothing wrong with running the rear full stiff for autocross to keep the car loose.

If your car isn't purpose built, adjustable sway bars are some of the best tuning tools to adjust your car for the task at hand. It's essentially the same thing as changing your spring rate.

Yep. Exactly. With 4 being the stiffest setting on my bar the difference between. 3 and 4 is dramatic. 3 the front plows like a John Deere. Not as bad as stock but still. 4 it actually turns in sharp,flat-ish, and quick.
 

torchred02gt

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What springs, shocks, sways, and tire setup are you running?

Steeda sports, bilsteins(the shorter ones), whiteline sways, and 285 nitto at all 4 corners. Plan on moving to 295 rivals or 285 rs3's later this year after my wedding and after I get a second set of wheels.
 

darreng505

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The car does not need more rear sway bar. Less if anything.

This is a pretty common meme with Mustangs. In reality less bar is great for putting power down on corner exits (depending on the corner) and more bar is great for turn in.
But can't have both unfortunately. So it depends on many things what degree of bar is good for a Mustang, including the track itself, and driving style.
 

DSG2003SVT

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Steeda sports, bilsteins(the shorter ones), whiteline sways, and 285 nitto at all 4 corners. Plan on moving to 295 rivals or 285 rs3's later this year after my wedding and after I get a second set of wheels.

That's an excellent setup. Are you running a Watt's also? What's your toe in and camber?
 

torchred02gt

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That's an excellent setup. Are you running a Watt's also? What's your toe in and camber?

Haven't purchased a watts yet. Still running the whiteline phb. I haven't been to an alignment shop since installing my vorshlag camber plates but I'll get back to you once I do. I can tell you I can get pretty good negative camber out of it now. The car is my daily driver so my toe settings remain set for daily use. I know I'm giving up some by not altering it but I'm not trying to win at nationals.

As far as my camber settings go I'll most likely just max them out. With the relatively mild drop I have I wouldn't imagine it'd go more than 2.5-3*.
 
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DSG2003SVT

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I was going to say you can run 1/16 total toe out for autocross to increase turn in. It does make the car a little darty on the highway though. I'm interested to know what you think about the watt's versus a properly setup PHB for autocross. Post back here if you get one, please. I know it will help a lot on the road course.
 

torchred02gt

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I was going to say you can run 1/16 total toe out for autocross to increase turn in. It does make the car a little darty on the highway though. I'm interested to know what you think about the watt's versus a properly setup PHB for autocross. Post back here if you get one, please. I know it will help a lot on the road course.

From what my friends tell me it helps in transition. The axle will move side to side with the phb through a slalom. I've seen the go pro video to prove it. Lol
 

Mark Aubele

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This is a pretty common meme with Mustangs. In reality less bar is great for putting power down on corner exits (depending on the corner) and more bar is great for turn in.
But can't have both unfortunately. So it depends on many things what degree of bar is good for a Mustang, including the track itself, and driving style.

I should have stated, "for 97% of people reading this thread, a bigger rear sway bar is not recommended." :)

I do have an aftermarket RSB (well, it is sitting in the pile of parts to go on when it isn't snowing and -10, bought the car in Sep), but I bought it so I can have an adjustment at the rear. Have never liked a lot of bar on RWD SRA cars, with a 3 link anyway. On my torque arm cars I did have a pretty stiff rear bar trying to get the car to rotate under throttle.
 
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darreng505

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I have an airplane wing on the back of my car and although I don't get the optimum corner exit throttle I get faster turn in and mid corner speed, AND I get to use throttle steering, which is harder to do without a rear bar.
If I took my rear bar off, my rear aero and bigger rear tires would turn my car into a bulldozer. But yeah, I'm in the 2-3% category. :)
 

DSG2003SVT

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From what my friends tell me it helps in transition. The axle will move side to side with the phb through a slalom. I've seen the go pro video to prove it. Lol

I was wondering how much it still did that on a smooth surface with other parts being stiffened up. I guess that your friends' testimonies answered my question.
 

5lho

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BBP?

And yes. That's the panhard bar at work. The axle wiggles over bumps mid corner. A watts link will help with that.

Yeah, Brembo Brake Package.

The axle wiggles a lot less now that the hydro-filled gelatin bushings are out of the panhard. As for the Watts, not quite ready to strap a lot more unsprung weight under the back without a suspension upgrade first. The BBP shocks and struts are adequate for the springs on them and the weight of the car but not much more than that, in my view.
 

smittybat

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Keep in mind your replacing a heavy panhard bar and brace. With the differential version you're replacing the diff cover as part of the added weight.

Diff mounted
Whiteline 29 lbs
Cortex 19 lbs

Chassis Mounted
Steeda 32.5 lbs
Shelby (Aluminium) 30 lbs
 

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