I would run power to the pumps to see what happens. This wouldn't be too hard to do, but it would save you from having to drop the tank.
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Cranks but no start; no fuel pressure
- Thread starter TheFleshRocket
- Start date
Okay, so the problem is unlikely to be in the tank.
I still need to jumper power directly to the pumps to see if they stay on, and I also need to check on the fuel pump booster. I did check its fuse and it was still good, but I haven't checked any voltages at it. I'll need to figure out what "good" output voltages are.
I still need to jumper power directly to the pumps to see if they stay on, and I also need to check on the fuel pump booster. I did check its fuse and it was still good, but I haven't checked any voltages at it. I'll need to figure out what "good" output voltages are.
That's the normal priming cycle. The pumps come on for a second to prime the lines. The pumps don't stay on constantly until the engine is started.
So even if a hose was blown off, the pumps would not run continuously during key-on / engine-off?
Correct. It's a timed event. It's not pressure based.
I hooked up an old motorcycle battery and jumpered positive to the top left middle pin (looks gray and pink) and ground to the top middle right pin (looks red and black). The wire got warm to the touch after several seconds, and I heard nothing from the fuel pumps, so I disconnected. The colors are very hard to concisely identify so I don’t know if I used the right pins.
Going 1-4 from left to right, I connected power to 2 and ground to 3.
Since I get whine from the pumps when I key on but got nothing this way, I assume I connected to the wrong leads.
Going 1-4 from left to right, I connected power to 2 and ground to 3.
Since I get whine from the pumps when I key on but got nothing this way, I assume I connected to the wrong leads.
Okay, so apparently the male end of the connection goes to the car's wiring harness; I need to inject power into the female end of the connector. Ooops.
I jumpered the pumps to the motorcycle battery correctly and heard them spin up. They whined louder at first, then fluctuated a bit, then continued whining at a lower pitch. (That may be due to the battery being weak--I stopped using it because it wasn't strong enough to consistently start the bike, but I did fully charge it on a battery tender before using it to test on the Mustang.) The fuel pressure gauge at the fuel rail stayed at zero.
I should have tried to start the car, just to make sure that the fuel pressure gauge isn't broken, but I doubt that it is.
At this point, it seems likely that a hose blew off of the pump. If you look at my pics, you'll see that I double-clamped each end of each hose, and I took care to tighten the clamps as tightly as reasonably possible. What should I do differently next time to prevent this from happening again?
I should have tried to start the car, just to make sure that the fuel pressure gauge isn't broken, but I doubt that it is.
At this point, it seems likely that a hose blew off of the pump. If you look at my pics, you'll see that I double-clamped each end of each hose, and I took care to tighten the clamps as tightly as reasonably possible. What should I do differently next time to prevent this from happening again?
It looks like you’ve double clamped the hoses, one being the correct clamp, and the other being the kind that can cut the hose if/when it swells. That would be where I’d start looking.
Junk that factory hat and get a Fore hat.
Which clamp is the correct type?
Are these hoses prone to swelling?
I had maybe a hundred miles and a few weeks after doing the PPRV delete--surely not enough time for a hose to swell or get cut.
What's the benefit of the Fore hat over stock?
It's a state of the art full proof system, no more hoses or Y fitting to fail. Upgraded wiring, etc. You have a state of the art supercharger....now you need to treat the fuel system the same way. Make your fuel delivery reliable and consistent. The last thing your motor needs is to starve for fuel.
http://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/55-500.htm
It looks really nice but yeah, no way that's gonna fly with the spouse at the present.
I never should have done the TVS "upgrade". It's been problem after problem, and my Cobra barely feels any faster than it did before.
Ya....aftermarket blower companies market these blower swaps as "simple bolt-on....", just add a bap, inj.....and it does work out for some. But they're on the edge duty cycle right away....and that's if nothing comes apart or fails with the factory hat that was never intended or designed for that level of fuel delivery. Considering what an investment people have with a healthy terminator powerplant....and how expensive a rebuild is....a fore hat, upgraded wiring, fpdm or a complete return setup needs to be factored into the original blower swap IMO. Especially if you want to run E85 and really spin the blower where it shines the most 20+psi
The old tried n true simple pullied eaton is where others should stop. The factory hat works fine, even the inj, maf and pumps in most cases. So simple, and great street light to street light TQ. Very little headache or $$$
My car was a 2.76 Eaton prior to the upgrade. It was quicker than my buddy's stock '11 GT500 from a roll or a dig. After his car was pullied, it would put a couple cars on mine during a 50-140 pull. After the TVS on a 2.8 pulley, I'd put about half a car on him during the same run. SOTP, I'd guess it's making 520-530rwhp. Presumably much of that is an overly-conservative remote tuner (yet one who is renowned in the Terminator community as an expert), but it's still disappointing as hell, especially given how much downtime I've had.
All hoses in fuel will swell, even the ones rated for submersion in fuel. Not sure if your hose is or not. The worm style clamp is the wrong type, as it can and will cut into the hose. The injector style clamp (picture below) is the correct clamp.
Edit: Looked at your pics again, you look to have the correct hose. I’d remove the worm clamps and inspect that area. If you can pull the fuel hat while keeping everything connected/wired up, a gallon or so in a bucket while you can watch is a great diagnostic tool.
I did an experiment tonight—I hooked up the fuel pumps to the motorcycle battery, and with them running for about 20 seconds, I tried to start the car and...it fired and ran! I let it idle for a couple minutes, then shut it off.
I reconnected the fuel pump harness, and the car started and idled normally. A test drive was good too. My OBD2 tool indicated 39ish psi while driving.
The loaner fuel pressure gauge must have had a bad adapter as it had previously showed 0 psi with the pumps running. (When I tested it on my Caprice, which didn’t use an adapter, it registered 40ish psi.)
After a few hours of sitting, I tried to start it again. I primed the pumps 3 times (PPRV delete necessitates this), and it fired, but sputtered and died. I primed the pumps several more times, and the car fired and ran properly.
Is it possible to adjust the length of time the pumps prime for? Like to make it be 4-5 seconds instead of 1?
I reconnected the fuel pump harness, and the car started and idled normally. A test drive was good too. My OBD2 tool indicated 39ish psi while driving.
The loaner fuel pressure gauge must have had a bad adapter as it had previously showed 0 psi with the pumps running. (When I tested it on my Caprice, which didn’t use an adapter, it registered 40ish psi.)
After a few hours of sitting, I tried to start it again. I primed the pumps 3 times (PPRV delete necessitates this), and it fired, but sputtered and died. I primed the pumps several more times, and the car fired and ran properly.
Is it possible to adjust the length of time the pumps prime for? Like to make it be 4-5 seconds instead of 1?
I can't answer the question pertaining to the time increase. Hit up someone like @04sleeper or @MalcolmV8 for that answer. You could always call and ask your tuner, if you have one you prefer.
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