Cutting BMR Springs

[askiles]

Has anybody cut their rear BMR springs for more of a drop? Like a 1/2" to make the drop a 1 1/2" / 2" drop? I believe the springs are a linear rate spring...but I could be wrong. I have a set coming and will put them on as is, but was just curious about cutting if I felt they needed a tad more drop. I know the experts at BMR will pop in here...LOL Linear or progressive guys?

-Andy

 

[HONDASAKI]

I wanted to do the same to mine, but you cant cut them because they tapper down where they sit on the perch. I took the upper and lower rubber insulators out on the rear spring mounts. gained about 1/4-1/2" more drop in the rear.

 

[askiles]

I believe they just taper on one end though, not both. So you could cut a partial coil on the other end...

 

[BMR Tech]

Fronts, rears, or all?

Cutting the fronts, is no big deal.

Cutting the rears, that's a little more complicated and I advise against it.

Our front springs are now shipping as a straight true linear design. From 2005 - 2 months ago, they were a dual rate (linear working) of 120/165F
The rear springs, as of right now....are still a dual rate, with a linear working rate. 120/160.

 

[04SNK390HP]

I wanted to do the same to mine, but you cant cut them because they tapper down where they sit on the perch. I took the upper and lower rubber insulators out on the rear spring mounts. gained about 1/4-1/2" more drop in the rear.

What rubber mounts did you remove to get a lower stance in the rear? Can you post a pic of what you removed? TIA

-Nick

 

[dirtyd88]

Fronts, rears, or all?

Cutting the fronts, is no big deal.

Cutting the rears, that's a little more complicated and I advise against it.

Our front springs are now shipping as a straight true linear design. From 2005 - 2 months ago, they were a dual rate (linear working) of 120/165F
The rear springs, as of right now....are still a dual rate, with a linear working rate. 120/160.

So what would that really change? with having the older springs?

 

[BMR Tech]

^ In terms of?

 

[askiles]

I actually bought a used set from a forum member, so they are probably an older design. I will know once I get them. It is the rears though I am curious about as most post stated. ;-) So have the rears always been a dual rate spring?

-Andy

 

[SirJAG]

sub....

i am running an old set of bmr springs myself...on stock hardware and would like a more leveled look....seems cutting may be a way to get there? or remove/trim the rear bump stops....??

 

[askiles]

Bump stops have nothing to do with your ride height. They simply stop your axle from hitting the "frame". They are so tall from the factory, and when we lower the car, it shortens the distance between te axle and the "frame", making it more likely to hit the bump stop earlier. By cutting you simply allow the axle to travel more. It in no way affects where the axle is at it's resting position.

-Andy

 

[dirtyd88]

^ In terms of?

Sorry. I didn't realize I didn't finished my thought.

You said they are shipping as linear, where the "older" are 120/160-165. Are they technically still the same exact spring, just "relabeled"? Or is the older spring more of a dual rate whereas the current are true linear?

 

[SirJAG]

Thank you Andy!

 

[askiles]

Any time!

 

[Azrael]

Sorry. I didn't realize I didn't finished my thought.

You said they are shipping as linear, where the "older" are 120/160-165. Are they technically still the same exact spring, just "relabeled"? Or is the older spring more of a dual rate whereas the current are true linear?

Interested as well, as my car is sitting on the older BMR springs and Koni Yellows. Personally, I love the way the car looks and feels now, and have not had any problems with scraping or driveway clearance (which was an issue here, with our previous 1.5" lowered 4th Gen F-Body cars and my Lowered Lightning). Always in for more information though!

 

[BMR Tech]

Check this thread, it has a few pics and some info.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1027812-WTB-BMR-Springs&highlight=

Basically, the springs will ride the same and perform similar, for the majority of customers.

The primary differences are:

The Dual Rate springs will be better for "DRAG" race use. The first rate, is compressed (non-working) at ride height. This 120 rate acts as "stored energy" when launching the car. It also helps absorb the load/landing when the front comes back down after launching. Of course, these characteristics are best utilized by using an adjustable front strut.

The other benefit to the dual rate design is that, they provide a more comfortable travel when hitting bumps (quick suspension travel)....as they "cushion" the travel more.

Now, the good news is....the "comfortable travel" I just mentioned, is hard to notice on a 165lb/in linear spring....as the rate is somewhat "soft" anyways....

As of right now, the rears are the same....they are still the dual rate design that they have always been. We may go to a true linear design in the future.

IMO, the change should not make much difference. The cool thing about the new linear fronts is, they are easier to install....they have a less chance of causing NVH.....and they are lighter than the dual rate design.

As for cutting the rears, meh.....I am not sure about that. I have never tried to cut them due to the coil design. I have cut many fronts....of various offerings....BMR, Eibach, OEM, FRPP, HR, etc.

 

[askiles]

Thanks for your input on this!! You are a wealth of suspension knowledge! I will put them on as is, and see where I think they need to be. Current;y I like the rake the car has stock, so an even drop front and back may get me where I need.

-Andy