cutting springs this weekend how much should i cut.PICS PLEASE

4.6speed

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Brad said:
Having 18" wheels doesn't change the diameter of the total wheels size...

Also I don't understand why you people are cutting your springs, it's just stupid, they're not designed to be cut and still do their job whereas a lowering spring can lower the car and still perform.

Pony up the $200 do some research and do it right for christs sakes, cutting might get the ride height you want, but you lose all predictabilty and performance of the spring.

On edit, I believe you can cut a progressive rate spring as it still keeps the same level of riditity over each spring, but the stock springs, don't cut them.
Maybe YOU should do some research, are springs are NOT progressive rate and you CAN cut them. You should never cut a progressive rate spring. Alot of people cut thier springs to produce exactly the stance they are looking for.
 

Brad

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4.6speed said:
Maybe YOU should do some research, are springs are NOT progressive rate and you CAN cut them. You should never cut a progressive rate spring. Alot of people cut thier springs to produce exactly the stance they are looking for.

Sorry I meant step linear and for some reason progressive just popped in there, stock 03 cobra springs are progressive if memory serves which is why I say don't cut them since the spaces/load between each coil varies. Unless they're not progressive, in which I retract my previous statement.

Yes you get exactly the stance you're looking for, you also get a spring that's not exactly right, which again is why you should just research the stance you want and pull the trigger on some springs that arn't hacked.

A progressive spring will produce a better ride under street conditions, plus when you’re putting them to the test they’ll stiffen up nicely as they’re being loaded. A linear spring is decent for performance in terms of launching the car into a turn as the load is nicely split between the shock/strut and spring, but under street conditions it’s a harsh ass ride, not to mention cutting coils off a linear spring increases the risk of just bottoming out the spring whereas a progressive spring built with a specific ride height and rigidity in mind is a FAR better choice for 99% of the people out there.

Since I just pulled my stock springs out and selected a progressive rate I'm not sure what the stockers are, based on what I remember them looking like I'm thinking they were progressive, but that was 4 years ago...
 

4.6speed

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The stock springs are a linear spring so you can cut them and the results are fine, tons of people have done 1 coil or less and had great results including myself. Knowing that I am going to go with a full coil over set up I decided to cut the stockers until I get around to it. I have had excellent results. I totally agree with you that progressive rate springs perform better than the stock ones.
 

Brad

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4.6speed said:
The stock springs are a linear spring so you can cut them and the results are fine, tons of people have done 1 coil or less and had great results including myself. Knowing that I am going to go with a full coil over set up I decided to cut the stockers until I get around to it. I have had excellent results. I totally agree with you that progressive rate springs perform better than the stock ones.

Yeah I wasn't too sure what the stockers were as it's been several years since I've seen them up close, so I retract saying cutting the stock ones is stupid.
 

Paul's_03SVT

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So how much lower front and rear does the car sit after cutting 3/4 coil? Also how many of you guys got alignments afterward?
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Brad said:
Having 18" wheels doesn't change the diameter of the total wheels size...

That depends on what aspect ratio and size you choose for your tires. I run 275\35\18s in front which is about equal to stock depending on what brand of tire you go with. I run 295\35\18s in the rear. The rears raised the back of my car nearly half an inch.
 

Brad

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LargeOrangeFont said:
That depends on what aspect ratio and size you choose for your tires. I run 275\35\18s in front which is about equal to stock depending on what brand of tire you go with. I run 295\35\18s in the rear. The rears raised the back of my car nearly half an inch.

let me rephrase...

when you get a bigger wheel you should step down the sidewall to keep the same overall diameter of the wheel. Just because you go 18 doesn't mean it's going to fill the gap more. I run 315/30/18's in the back for that exact reason :beer:
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Brad said:
let me rephrase...

when you get a bigger wheel you should step down the sidewall to keep the same overall diameter of the wheel. Just because you go 18 doesn't mean it's going to fill the gap more. I run 315/30/18's in the back for that exact reason :beer:

Agreed.
 

4.6speed

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Paul's_03SVT said:
So how much lower front and rear does the car sit after cutting 3/4 coil? Also how many of you guys got alignments afterward?
I cut 1 full coil about 2 years ago, just got around to getting my alignment done today since I just got some new tires. Get some caster/camber plates on before you take it in for alignment. I screwed up because I don't have them and the tech said he couldnt get it fully within specs but very very close, maybe he could with 3/4 coil cut but I'm not sure.
 

firemedic

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4.6speed said:
I cut 1 full coil about 2 years ago, just got around to getting my alignment done today since I just got some new tires. Get some caster/camber plates on before you take it in for alignment. I screwed up because I don't have them and the tech said he couldnt get it fully within specs but very very close, maybe he could with 3/4 coil cut but I'm not sure.

4.6speed, do you have any shots of the car from a side profile? I saw the earlier front/partial side. Just wondering how you like the 1 coil all around?

Looking to do 1 coil w/ MM isolators on a non DD. Post or PM/e-mail.
 

ByeOfficer

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Hmmm, so if I do one full coil I should do C/C plates? Thnx for the heads up. I am still learning this mod motor stuff after getting out of the pushrod stuff. I was under the impression (with my 95 and thought it applied w/our cars) that anything over a 2" drop needed C/C plates. I guess that's not true w/Cobra's????? I guess it's wise to get them anyway just to make sure your alignment is correct and you aren't replacing front tires once a year.
 

dew.man

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Couldn't stand the 4x4 look any more, so I broke down and cut the springs this weekend. Took off 5/8 coil front, 7/8 coil rear. Stock iso all around. Piece of cake - took just a couple of hours.

Before:
dscn1971.jpg

dscn1976.jpg

After
dscn2040.jpg

dscn2042.jpg
 

cobraCMDR

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looks perfect. How is your alignment? Were they able to line it back up? What about the ride quality? any noticable change?
 

dew.man

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Alignment checked out fine.
Ride quality seems about the same as before, but I do get a little bit of tire rub - in the back when hitting bumps at speed (stiffer shocks would prob take care of this), and in the front with the wheel cranked to the side (not yet sure where it's hitting).
All-in-all, I'm happy with the result, but would prob only go 3/4 coil in the back instead of the 7/8 if I were to do it again...
 

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