Hey guys I was just recently looking through the menu's on my 14 track pack and noticed while sitting at a stop light that my cylinder head temps where around 220-225ish at idle and that my oil temp needle was slightly on the right half of the green "normal" zone. Normally I would only get the oil temp needle there if I was beating hard on the car but just sitting at idle it looked strange. When I run my steeda tune every so often the highest I've seen the cylinder head temps go is like 205-207 fully wormed up and the oil temp needle never breaks the half way point on the "normal" green zone. Im running the AED tune now and the car still drives perfectly fine, just wondering if I should be concerned about this at all?
Cyl head temps and oil temps on AED tune?
- Thread starter 9TMAREEE
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Yes it was middle of the day, sunny and outside temp was high 80s and it gets humid here in VA. But it wasn't really stop and go traffic and A/C wasn't on. I was just driving around and came to a stop light and decided to check my gauges.
Unless you were doing hard pulls you can exclude AED's tune from the list of contributing factors. Im in Texas and see 210-215* head temps daily. It is about 95-100 out here right now with heat index reaching 106-110 from time to time.
Try these fan settings. They work for me and it's really humid in Texas with all the rain we have gotten. If you really need the extra helping keeping it cool, set the 200* column to 20%, that is prob where you can get the most help in stop and go traffic.
Try these fan settings. They work for me and it's really humid in Texas with all the rain we have gotten. If you really need the extra helping keeping it cool, set the 200* column to 20%, that is prob where you can get the most help in stop and go traffic.
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I would contact Shaun...I doubt he sets it to run that hot. When I had his tune on my car it was the coolest running tune I have had to date, don't recall it ever running hotter than 205.
Below is how I set the fans in your tune:
By 220 the fans would be on 100% and should cool the engine right down. In other words, if your fan is on HIGH when you see these head temps you may have an obstruction to the airflow or in the cooling system. If the fan is not on HIGH by 220 there is likely a fan/wiring/relay/resistor issue.
By 220 the fans would be on 100% and should cool the engine right down. In other words, if your fan is on HIGH when you see these head temps you may have an obstruction to the airflow or in the cooling system. If the fan is not on HIGH by 220 there is likely a fan/wiring/relay/resistor issue.
Shaun, I have the TVS on my car. I've noticed my cooling temp is definitely hotter than normal. Sometimes cruising on the highway it'll creep up to like 221 (AC on, on a 80*+ day) I was thinking about a 170* thermostat. Can I just have the fan come on 100% sooner?
Actually, after I made a WOT pull, coolant temp hit like 225-227*. Then I gave I alittle gas in 6th to go around someone, and it kind of bucked and the exhaust popped. I figured maybe something in the tune (like a limp mode type of thing?) sorry to thread jack op!
Is that actual coolant temp or cylinder head temperature?
Here are the stock fan settings:
Shawn, your boosted fan settings are below:
I think you guys are confused about what we can and cannot control in these tunes.
Factory thermostats are 195, that is the MINIMUM coolant temp for full coolant flow thru the system. Setting the fans to come on any earlier than this would result in the fans being on 100% of the time and that is not the proper way to set the cooling fans.
Turning on the fans from zero to 100% results in a severe voltage drop that causes idle surge and on occuasion complete stall of the engine. Hence we *ramp* the fans from 40 to 100% across 15-20 degrees.
The fans work to cool the engine till 40MPH, at which point the air moving thru the radiator far exceeds what a fan can pull thru the radiator. IE if temps are fine at 40+MPH but heat up below 40MPH you need more fan, if temps are high at 40+MPH you have either an airflow issue or a cooling system that is undersized, or perhaps a restriction in the system.
From the sounds of things you guys have restrictions of airflow, restrictions of water flow, or electrical problems. If your cooling system is inadequate a tune will not 'fix' this.
I can only modify the coolant temp at which the fans turn ON at low and high speed.
Shawn, your boosted fan settings are below:
I think you guys are confused about what we can and cannot control in these tunes.
Factory thermostats are 195, that is the MINIMUM coolant temp for full coolant flow thru the system. Setting the fans to come on any earlier than this would result in the fans being on 100% of the time and that is not the proper way to set the cooling fans.
Turning on the fans from zero to 100% results in a severe voltage drop that causes idle surge and on occuasion complete stall of the engine. Hence we *ramp* the fans from 40 to 100% across 15-20 degrees.
The fans work to cool the engine till 40MPH, at which point the air moving thru the radiator far exceeds what a fan can pull thru the radiator. IE if temps are fine at 40+MPH but heat up below 40MPH you need more fan, if temps are high at 40+MPH you have either an airflow issue or a cooling system that is undersized, or perhaps a restriction in the system.
From the sounds of things you guys have restrictions of airflow, restrictions of water flow, or electrical problems. If your cooling system is inadequate a tune will not 'fix' this.
I can only modify the coolant temp at which the fans turn ON at low and high speed.
Thanks for the info Shaun! I figured I'm just getting hotter cyl head temps with the blower. I'll try burping the coolant system, and try a cooler tstat
One thing to look at is your wire harness because I was having similar issues with coolant temp from what my data logs where showing. I had been checking everything. But they seem to be better now. But what caught my attention on what you said with oil pressure sensor going up. Your cht sensor, oil pressure, and cam sensors are use the same reference signal wire. One issue that I found was when I was looking at the cylinder head temp and voltage is that when my car was at normal operating temp the voltage higher then what it was specified for. As the temp increase the voltage should decrease. I'm going to keeping my eye on mine see how it acts up. But keep me posted because it sounds similar to I having and I find anything else I keep you posted. I'll try and post some pics of the diagram to give you a better idea.
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Great, thanks for Shaun and everyone's help, and Flaco thanks for the reference I'll look into that. Would you happen to know where that wire is located? I have popped my hood and checked everything and no restrictions or wires look out of the ordinary. I just found it a little strange since yesterday I just swapped back to my Steeda tune to check everything out and the highest I saw my cyl head temps go to was about 205 then it would cool right down to about 200-203. Likewise the oil temp needle always stayed on the left side of the green area fully warmed up regardless of sitting at a light or doing highway speeds. That's why I'm thinking it might not be any issues with the wiring or a restriction
Shaun has already stated the correct information. Some calibrators use different fan settings. So you may or not not see a difference in range of temps between tunes. Some calibrators are not setting the fans correctly though.
If yor vehicle does the following:
Fan doesnt go off once on
Keeps burning plug on back of fan and or the resistor on back of fan
Begins overheating and fan wont come on (dead resistor or fried plug most likely)
Obviously the thermostat has a functioning range, fully open, and fully closed dependent on coolant temps.
Setting the fan off temp lower than the thermostat would ever allow the coolant to get means the fan, once on, will not shut off. To make issue worse, instead of ramping in the fan speed, they are putting the first setpoint to 100% fan capacity. So now not only does your fan not go off, its running at full speed once commanded on, until you shut the car off. Eventually, this will tax the electronics, causing failure of the ran plug/resistor.
Don't go ripping out your thermostat and saying "hey guys, I fixed the problem". That is not the answer. The answer is to have your calibrator set the fans correctly.
If yor vehicle does the following:
Fan doesnt go off once on
Keeps burning plug on back of fan and or the resistor on back of fan
Begins overheating and fan wont come on (dead resistor or fried plug most likely)
Obviously the thermostat has a functioning range, fully open, and fully closed dependent on coolant temps.
Setting the fan off temp lower than the thermostat would ever allow the coolant to get means the fan, once on, will not shut off. To make issue worse, instead of ramping in the fan speed, they are putting the first setpoint to 100% fan capacity. So now not only does your fan not go off, its running at full speed once commanded on, until you shut the car off. Eventually, this will tax the electronics, causing failure of the ran plug/resistor.
Don't go ripping out your thermostat and saying "hey guys, I fixed the problem". That is not the answer. The answer is to have your calibrator set the fans correctly.
Shaun, in your opinion does the factory track pack oil cooler help at all? I've heard different stories. Didn't know if you had any info on this or not
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