Drag racing help

[Rosco]

How's it going guys. I'm needing some help with my times at the track. I went to the local drag strip for the first which is an 1/8mile and I did poorly for what I thought I could have maybe done.
I got a 2.2 60ft with a trap of 79mph and 1/8 mile time of 9.5
My mod list is
275/50r15 nitto555r which were halfway grippy
4:30 rear end with carbon fiber clutch LSD upgrade (may drain and use less friction modifier, used 1.5 bottles because the 1 bottle was chattering really loud)
Aluminum driveshaft
Aluminum flywheel
Aftermarket clutch
About stock weight vehicle with stock fox springs out back and strange 10 ways set halfway
Strange coilover upfront with 175lb springs and struts set all the way loose (max to the left?)
Engine is bone stock.
Vehicle is a 98 cobra and best time I left off of idle. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[GRUSE]

Swap the Nittos for MT ET street bias ply.What psi were your tires?Around 15psi is optimal.I run an aluminum fly wheel too,will be returning the stock next time tranny is out.Aluminum FW work better for road course than drags.Guys here recommend removing front sway bar.Other members can guide you on suspension as to what works best.

9.5 is not bad for the first time out.How old are the spark plugs and wires?New plugs are cheep and FRPP 9mm can be beneficial.A good short throw shifter and full length weld in SFC wont make you faster but are good things to have if you plan to continue racing.
Seat time and the MT ET street should get you into the 8 sec club.

 

[Rosco]

I wanted to get the MT ETs but I was hoping to get maybe 8-10k of street driving life with some track runs out of the nittos, probably should have just bit the bullet with the MT wear. I do have pro 5.0 shifter installed and FLSC as my next mod to do. I aired down to 18 but wasn't able to get more than 1 decent burnout, the water box was dry by my second run and they didn't add more. I forgot about the front sway bar, I'll make sure to remove that prior. I have 2 year old frpp wires and platinum plugs installed at the same time, should check the plugs for gap and condition. I definitely need some more seat time, I still had a good time being slow. I ordered the MM pedal height adjuster and I'm hoping that will aid me in my burnout and being able to hold and slip the take off with more ease that the pedal travel won't be a foot. As far as the flywheel I wouldn't wanna drop the trans to add more rotating mass, I'm not sure how the heavier flywheel, given it will hold more inertia, will benefit me though.

 

[STAMPEDE3]

People have been 8s or better on those tires.
How high were you launching?
Spinning or bogging?

That 60' is killing you.

 

[GRUSE]

From your trap speed,the plugs and wires are probably fine.Next time get copper plugs.Platinums are good for a truck or a set it and forget it application.The Nittos are good for the street and should last about 20k but the MT ET's will not spin at the line giving the ability to launch at higher RPM's.Get the Bias ply never use them on the street or they wont last.

I use the hand brake at the line.It frees up my foot to rev up without rolling,making for a better launch.

 

[Rosco]

My best 60ft at 2.2 was off of idle with no bog or spin, and yes my 60ft is killing me. The other 2 runs I got were around 2000-2500rpm launch, I ended up staging second and would roll forward with my foot of the brake and that kept me from holding a consistent rpm for launch. Also my burnouts were poor and that had to effect my grip a good amount. What rpm should I be launching around ? I wouldn't upgrade tires until I burn through these. If I find the plugs to be bad, how would coppers net me anything? Can you guys tell me anything about line locks and rev limiters and which would be more useful.

 

[98 N/A 4V]

When I ran the 17" nittos, I used to run them at 14psi cold.
5-7 second burnout. Then roll out of it.
Quickly stage and preload the drivetrain
When the lights come down give it a quick feather/dump.
This got me consistant 1.8's with a best of 1.74 60'

Your front springs are too stiff. Go down to at least 150lbs.
Is your front sway bar connected? If so, disconnect it. That will help a ton too!

-Mark

 

[Rosco]

I'm at around 3,300 race weight, you think that's too stiff for 175lb front springs? Also what do you think is a good pressure for a 275/50r15 tire? I will be disconnecting the front sway bar next track day, you think that will make a noticeable differnece?

 

[STAMPEDE3]

For 15" I'd try between 15-18 psi and adjust from there. If they stick at 18 go to 19, etc..... if they spin then drop a pound and try again.
It takes time and patience.

The most you can run and still stick is best.
you will need to try to launch harder.

 

[Rosco]

You think 15psi is to low for a 15" rim? I didn't get enough runs to see if 19 or 17 worked best. I was looking at getting flsc or relocated upper control arms and lower control arms from baseline suspensions, or a line lock from hurst, which do you think I would benefit from most?

 

[STAMPEDE3]

Sub frames first

 

[nomoretickets]

You just need to dial the tire pressure and get more seat time. More parts will help, but it just comes down to practice more than anything. Stick with it.

 

[Rosco]

Thanks for the advice guys, I plan on heading back to the track in the next few weeks and getting more time in. I have the funds ready for the flsc but I live in the eastern Los Angeles area and don't know a shop to have it done at, does anyone on here have a shop to refer? I have a good exhaust guy but this is a little more critical of an install. Would going as low as 15psi on a 15" rim be to low?

 

[STAMPEDE3]

15 is a little on the low side but probably not unsafe. I have never needed to run them that low.

On DRs you want to run as much tire pressure that traction will allow.
Personally I have run up to full pressure on them without much change.
As far as my FLSCs, My local muffler shop welded mine.

 

[Rosco]

That's good to know I'll start higher and drop less pressure each run to see how that effects them. Is notching the trans crossmember something that can easily be done for my muffler guy? I know it needs to be done on a roll on lift to have the suspension loaded, and the tabs cut and rewelded, what's usually a fair price on labor.