Dragon T-Body IAC Orientation & Connector Problems (not rubbing or high idle thread)

03SonicVert

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I just went to install a Dragon T-Body and Plenum and to my surprise the IAC connector/pigtail is too short. The IAC connector on the IAC is 180 out from where it needs to be.

I really don't want to go chopping up the two wires to extend them so I was looking for other options and suggestions. I was thinking I could buy a 96-98 Cobra IAC as it looks like the connector is 180 degrees rotated and since the engines are pretty much the same, at idle anyway, and since the PCM will learn the new idle......

Did 03-04 Cobras come with IACs with both orientations of the connector on the IAC? You would think Dragon would supply a small jumper. My IAC is OEM from factory and not been replaced.

Any thoughts or input?

Here she is:
http://i40.tinypic.com/2v85smr.jpg
 
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BdJames

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Most guys out the iac in a vice and turn it until its 180 and in the proper location. Be careful not to break it. Good luck. #dragonthrottlebodyproblems
 

03SonicVert

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I didn't even know it was possible to spin it. I'll give it some thought. Maybe hook up up an ohm meter and watch it go open/break right in front of me! Then buy the 96-98 cobra IAC.

I appreciate the input and will give it a try.
 

03SonicVert

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Tim the tool man Taylor?!?!?!

I hope you know the home improvement reference.


You are right on! He was with me in spirit egging me on, grunting, over-complicating, etc and to install it w/o looking for the instructions. I purchased it used but the install instructions were easily found on Dragon's website. If you only knew how pissed off I was too....... All self inflicted stupidity. :bash:

Good news is that the plenum and T-body are on. The IAC clocked with no problem. I guess since it is a solenoid and creating a magnetic field there was really no issue with rotating 180 since the winding and connector all spun together. My brain must have been far, far away on vacation. I have the rubber coupler from the stock intake elbow soaking in dish soap solution since it would not stay on the Dragon too well with it's slight oil slick. I have a JLT I should be picking up on Wed from the body shop being painted SB.

I'll disconnect the battery prior to restarting and hopefully she fires up, learns the new idle and runs good.

Thanks for the help and getting my feet and head back on the ground.
 
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BdJames

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Post back after you fire it up. I'm interested to see how she idles. I had nothing but problems with my install. Hope you don't.
 

mustang john

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I had zero issues with mine and I didn't disconnect the battery, just installed and fired it up. Well let me correct that, I did have to notch the coil cover for a bit more clearance.
 

03SonicVert

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Hopefully fire it up in the next few days. Tomorrow if I'm lucky. I swapped in an AFCO H/E as well but when I called my wife to pick me up some distilled water she had already run her errands and was on the way home. I hope she runs good. I excersised the throttle a dozen times are there didn't seem to be any sticking but I guess once she heats up and is running all questions will be answered. I need to get someone to depress the throttle pedal and make sure the t-body/blade is truly wide open. The stock elbow fits terribly. I thought it was just because it was oily but I cleaned it real well with the seal removed, reinstalled it but it just seems like the elbow will vibrate off while driving. I do have a JLT RAI but I have to pick up the tube and heat shield from the body shop, hopefully this Wednesday, after having them painted SB.

P.S. My IAC was also rubbing the coil cover so I ground on the IAC ever so slightly. Right on the angled slope. It came out really nice looking and there is about the thickness of a dime clearance between the IAC and coil cover now.
 
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03SonicVert

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**UPDATE**

Well I got my AFCO H/E installed, front and rear bumpers back on after getting painted, Dragon T-Body and Plenum as well as color matched JLT RAI after getting it back from the body shop who painted the bumpers. I removed the battery to see if I could get to the driver side bumper nuts to no avail. I checked my TP voltage with KOEO and it was at .96V. Had someone press the accelerator to the floor to ensure the T-Body was going max WOT.

Long story short I fired the car up after about 3 weeks apart with parts at the body shop. It started and idled like the battery was never disconnected and it still had the stock T-Body and plenum. It started thundering and lightning so I didn't get a chance to drive it this evening but it fired up and purred like a kitten. Not even the slightest of high idle. The RPM's were good and the IAC was working perfect. I let it idle for approx 20 min while I burped the intercooler fluid and so far so good. I can't wait to drive it and see how the throttle response is!

Thanks for everyone's help and maybe some positive reinforcement that Dragon products are just fine. I didn't even touch my coil cover for IAC interference. Only slightly hit the IAC on the angled portions with a grinder. Maybe a 1/16 of an inch and now that it is installed I can see plenty of daylight in between!
 

Shadow Grey 03

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Wish I would have seen this sooner. Glad it worked out for you though :beer:
I was able to get my plug to reach without clocking the IAC, but I can see how it might be a pain. I can't remember if I had to separate the wires from the IAC plug and TPS sensor or not. They may have been taped together. Been too long I guess.
 

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