DSG Presenred another issue. 200amp breaker keeps switching off every time its reset

[Marines691]

So I recently fixed the fuel issue causing rough idling and the lot. Now another issue is rearing it's head. I have a 200amp breaker that keeps switching and making my alternator go from 14.2v to 11.2-11.8v while running. I know I can't drive it obviously, but what could be causing the breaker to trip? Here is a picture of it. It's the little box down there that says truconnect. Any ideas? Should I replace the whole unit?

Picture:

 

[MG0h3]

First guess is the breaker is tripping at well below 200a.

It’s not making your Alt do anything. It’s opening the circuit between the alt and batt as if the cable was disconnected.

When does it trip?

I don’t know if maybe all accessories on and then the fan kicks on if you could see a 200A load real quick.


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[Marines691]

First guess is the breaker is tripping at well below 200a.

It’s not making your Alt do anything. It’s opening the circuit between the alt and batt as if the cable was disconnected.

When does it trip?

I don’t know if maybe all accessories on and then the fan kicks on if you could see a 200A load real quick.


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It trips when I reset it and start up and like move the car. I have after market subs and speakers. Idk if that's causing issues. Would upgrading to a 300amp box help? Or something else?

 

[01yellercobra]

My first thought is it's a bad breaker. But it would be worth getting a clamp meter and checking current draw of the system.

 

[03' White Snake]

Your starter draws the most during initial cranking. You should not have a breaker/fuse on this line. To be high enough to handle the starter load, they would offer zero protection on any other electrical component.

Ex. If the Starter draws 175 amp, your fuel pumps, radio, windows draw less than 30 amps. These devices would catch fire and burn up long before your 200 amp breaker/fuse would trip.

Going to a 300 amp fuse or breaker is not the answer. You should not have a breaker/fuse on the starter power wire. You need to isolate that line if you are trying to fuse other components.

 

[Marines691]

Your starter draws the most during initial cranking. You should not have a breaker/fuse on this line. To be high enough to handle the starter load, they would offer zero protection on any other electrical component.

Ex. If the Starter draws 175 amp, your fuel pumps, radio, windows draw less than 30 amps. These devices would catch fire and burn up long before your 200 amp breaker/fuse would trip.

Going to a 300 amp fuse or breaker is not the answer. You should not have a breaker/fuse on the starter power wire. You need to isolate that line if you are trying to fuse other components.

The fuse goes from the alternator to the fuse box to the battery. Is that not typical procedure? It's the typical power kit harness they sell with alternator for that specific purpose. Here is a spare one I have that I could swap? When it comes to electrical stuff I'm a little lost. Just sucks I fixed one issue and immediately after two months of waiting boom sudden electrical issue lol. Here's the link to the harness I have as replacement. PA Performance Mustang Premium Power Wire Kit 9909 (94-14 Mustang, Excluding GT500) - Free Shipping

 

[MG0h3]

I was gonna say, that breaker isn’t on the cable that goes to the starter.

Op your description of when it trips is too vague.

Is it when you start the car? Move the car?

Like 98 said, get a voltmeter with an amp clamp. Although I don’t know if a handheld device can handle measuring 200amps.

You can also Google testing procedures for that breaker.

You could also replace it with another 200A breaker.

You could disconnect/pull the fuse on certain items to eliminate the load and see if it stops tripping.

I would start by seeing if you can test the breaker with a meter.

Wait a sec. I’m rereading your post.

So while sitting there idling, it’s tripping and resetting itself repeatedly so that you’re seeing the voltage go up and down?




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[FleeMan]

My Battery Relocation Project (MANY PICS!)

Starting with the great information presented in this THREAD, I set out to do a battery relocation. Here's the stuff I bought (with vendor & approximate prices): Taylor Battery Relocation Kit (Summit, TAY-48103, $121) Summit Remote Starter Solenoid Kit (Summit, SUM-G1750, $20) SWX...

www.svtperformance.com

I know nothing is mentioned here about a battery relocation but this thread might be of use to you.

If it were me I would replace the breaker with a newer/better quality one and go from there.

 

[Marines691]

My Battery Relocation Project (MANY PICS!)

Starting with the great information presented in this THREAD, I set out to do a battery relocation. Here's the stuff I bought (with vendor & approximate prices): Taylor Battery Relocation Kit (Summit, TAY-48103, $121) Summit Remote Starter Solenoid Kit (Summit, SUM-G1750, $20) SWX...

www.svtperformance.com

I know nothing is mentioned here about a battery relocation but this thread might be of use to you.

If it were me I would replace the breaker with a newer/better quality one and go from there.

I will definitely be doing this in the winter. So hot working on car in summer here. 115 degree heat index and humidity is 90%+. I need an AC shop haha. Thank you.

 

[FleeMan]

I used that wiring diagram to do my relocation kit. Hasn't given me any issues other than the shitty fuses that the OP used. I purchased some Marine grade breakers and all has been perfect.

 

[Marines691]

Everyone I fixed it... someone who helped me fix the fuel issue I had previous cut a zip tie when we were diagnosing in the front of the engine bay. The alternator wire and 200amp box was slightly leaning against the engine block causing the red protective covering to melt slightly and overheat the wires. Signaling the box to trip and over heat. I replaced and re tied the harness to prevent exposure to the engine block again. This completely eradicated the issue and she's running excellent now. Fingers crossed it stays that way. Thanks everyone for your help.