Dyno tuned Coyote...... some issues still need to be resolved

allicedout

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Hey everyone, recently installed a Roush TVS 2300 on my 2011 Mustang GT 6mt. During dyno tuning we had a hard time getting the car to idle, It would stay around 1000rpm, once that was corrected we found the car was slightly surging under no load. When we loaded it up it was fine. Anyhow everything got fixed and the car is driving well.

Recently the Idle is going to 900rpm instead of the regular 700. I also notice that the RPMS seem to hang when shifting gears or coasting in gear. It takes a second or two before the RPMS begin to drop. My tuner will be sending me a revision to try out but I thought I'd ask to see if anyone has had these issue and what they did to resolve it.

Thanks.
 

JTS_7

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Those are all parameters that can be adjusted in the tune. Try your tuners revisions.
 

allicedout

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Those are all parameters that can be adjusted in the tune. Try your tuners revisions.

Will be trying the second revision tonight...... 1st one was worse then the original tune as the car kept shutting off at a stop. I'm not sure if its me or the tune, if any of you boosted guys could chime in that would be great. I find that when I get in to boost its extremely erratic unless I go full throttle. It's not a smooth transition, and 100% throttle is also not practical in 1st, 2nd and part of 3rd. Are you boosted guys able to gradually get in to boost or is it full throttle? Thanks.
 
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Cyclerick

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While I have similar issues with a Paxton, I have a second set of wheels with MT street slicks for around town. They hook up really well. Then for my weekend trips over 180 miles, I throw on my Michelins.
 

JTS_7

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Will be trying the second revision tonight...... 1st one was worse then the original tune as the car kept shutting off at a stop. I'm not sure if its me or the tune, if any of you boosted guys could chime in that would be great. I find that when I get in to boost its extremely erratic unless I go full throttle. It's not a smooth transition, and 100% throttle is also not practical in 1st, 2nd and part of 3rd. Are you boosted guys able to gradually get in to boost or is it full throttle? Thanks.


There me are an array of adjustable parameters that can be manipulated in the copperhead PCM regarding your issues. They all work together in one way shape or form.

These can be calibrated in different manners for different reasons. These parameters and the way they are calibrated will directly impact what you are feeling during the transitions of throttle input.

If your tuner cannot get it right after a few revisions (stalling issue).I would look elsewhere. I will add this though in regards to "power adder" cars and pedal input. Some tuners transition he car into "wot mode" in different areas, a little differently than the next guy might do it. This does not mean it's wrong or incorrect. Your tuner may be able to massage it a little more to your liking, but sometimes that's just the way it is with electronic throttle and these new pcms.
 
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jn2

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Sounds like he needs to work on your throttle body tables. Shouldn't be hard, the Roush strategy would be a good starting point for this as it is already set up to run the twin 60mm and that specific blower.
 

allicedout

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Thanks for the good advice guys, I'm on my forth revision and just got my 5th, was ready to load it and SCT software won't respond to the windows 10 update that happened a few hours before and unfortunately I don't have a back up date to take it back before the update....... FML!

I'm frustrated with my tuner and have decided this will be the last revision. I understand that some cars may need some more finessing then others but every time I get a revision he tells me to let him know if it got better or worse which clearly leads me to believe he's just guessing at this point. Hopefully he's nailed it this time as I don't want to have to spend money on another dyno tune...... If he can't get it dialed in correctly do you think i am at liberty to ask for some compensation back? Anyhow I'll keep you all posted.
 

crfrider16

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You stated everything got fixed and the car was driving well. Now you're experiencing a change in idle speed and throttle characteristics. To me, that is a sure sign that something changed mechanically. I'd start hunting for vacuum leaks. It honestly sounds like your having the tuner try to tune around an issue. Just my 2 cents.

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allicedout

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You stated everything got fixed and the car was driving well. Now you're experiencing a change in idle speed and throttle characteristics. To me, that is a sure sign that something changed mechanically. I'd start hunting for vacuum leaks. It honestly sounds like your having the tuner try to tune around an issue. Just my 2 cents.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Appreciate the input and I agree that's what it sounded like to me as well...... So I did have my mechanic look at it and everything seems fine from his end. He's been working with my tuner so neither one of them would pawn it off on the other.
 

5lho

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You'd know darn well if it was a post-MAF air leak, as the STFT would be all wacky at low rpms and get better as revs rose. You've datlogged normal driving, right?
 

allicedout

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You'd know darn well if it was a post-MAF air leak, as the STFT would be all wacky at low rpms and get better as revs rose. You've datlogged normal driving, right?

I have not data logged or know the first thing about it..... hence why I had the car dyno tuned by a tuner. Never the less after I read your post I got really curious and did find some really good information regarding data logging on the Coyote, even better still it was one with a TVS blower running 10lbs of boost like mine. Anyhow I have some things to look at now so I can get some idea of what is going on for myself. Thanks for the insight. I've attached the link for anyone interested.

https://www.forcedmotorsports.com/logging/
 

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