I have searched but not found the answer. First off, I just deleted the EGR. I got rid of the red, black, and pink tube but what about the green tube that is in the same vacuum connection as the red. Also, which tube plugs back into the boost actuator. I know you guys are tired of answering this question but I couldn't find an answer that I understood. Thanks in advance for the help.
EGR Delete question
- Thread starter jknowles4
- Start date
I can't remember for sure but doesn't the green line go to the EGR valve. If so then just take it out.
These are the steps that I followed but it was never said what to do with the green hose. Also, through searching I found where chiz showed a picture of all the hoses he got rid of and the green one was pictured but a red one was not. I am just a little confused on what all needs to be deleted and or kept. Like I said I searched but couldn't find an answer that made sense.
The only thing from the bracket that you need to keep is the BAP sensor at the rear of the bracket. I just cut down the bracket and mounted it to the top of the post at the rear of the intake where the rear bolt is for the fuel rail. The noise supressor is bolted on top of the post. It makes taking the SC off easier. If I remember correctly the only line going to the drivers side of the engine that is still needed is for the EVAP Vapor Management Valve. Any line that runs to the bracket can ether be removed from the harness or just capped off. I took mine out because I thought it looked cleaner. Let me know if you need more info and I can check out my set up when I get home tonight and let you know.
Tell you what, I'll take pic's tonight and post them tomorrow for you and anyone else that might need them in the future.
On my truck, i had two green vaccum lines. one on the egr, and one on the boost solenoid. Remove the green one that connects to the top of the egr, and keep the one that runs from the boost solenoid to the intake boot. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Oh yeah, check my site I believe I cleared a few things up on the egr delete how-to when I actually did it on my site. I wasn't able to change anything on the original one since it is locked. www.getursracing.piczo.com
chiz
Oh yeah, check my site I believe I cleared a few things up on the egr delete how-to when I actually did it on my site. I wasn't able to change anything on the original one since it is locked. www.getursracing.piczo.com
chiz
This is how mine is. Assuming you did the boost bypass mod the pink line would be on the T fitting of the line that goes inside the cab for the boost gauge. So then the pink goes from the T to the top of the boost actuator. The bottom of the boost actuator has the black line which goes to the intake.The 2 black lines that go to the passenger side of the motor get capped off or removed/capped at source. The green for the EGR is removed along with the red that goes to the plenum.
I'm sure that somebody else did it different but this is how I did it. Between these pics and Chiz's How-To you should be cool. Hope it helps. If you already have the SC off then it will be really easy to just remove all of the lines and make the engine compartment look cleaner.
Sorry the pics are blurry. I did it in my garage with no light.
From the main fitting on the upper intake.
Yes, I do know that my fingernails are filthy. Life of being a mechanic.
There are three fittings that go into the black rubber connector. There are two red lines and one black. Leave the black and one red line goes to the EGR bracket and the other red goes to the EVAP Vapor Management Valve. Remove the red that goes to the bracket and plug off the rubber fitting. I used a big ass golf tee to plug the hole. This way I can reinstall the line if I need to later on down the road if I need to.
Follow the black line back and about halfway back on the passengers side it T's. Remove the remainder of the line and cap it off at the rear of the T.
Behind the battery and the starter relay is another fitting. Remove the black line and plug off the fitting on the lower Blue/White check valve. The fitting that needs capped off points back to the engine.
On the drivers side you can remove all of the lines except the one red line that goes to the EVAP "VMV". (just above and to the left of the brake booster.
I had the Boost Bypass done in my tune so I removed the pink line and capped off the front fitting on the valve. (Just above the P on the valve)
The rear line stays where it is. It goes to the fitting on the air intake tube.
This is where I cut down the bracket and mounted the BAP sensor to the intake post. Just gets it out of the way for future SC removal.
There is one fitting on the lower intake between coil #5 and #6. While your there use a small hose clamp or wire tie around the rubber fitting to secure it. There are two lines that come out of this fitting. Red and Black. Red goes to the fuel pressure regulator and black goes to the firewall for the boost gauge inside the cab.
Sorry the pics are blurry. I did it in my garage with no light.
From the main fitting on the upper intake.
Yes, I do know that my fingernails are filthy. Life of being a mechanic.
There are three fittings that go into the black rubber connector. There are two red lines and one black. Leave the black and one red line goes to the EGR bracket and the other red goes to the EVAP Vapor Management Valve. Remove the red that goes to the bracket and plug off the rubber fitting. I used a big ass golf tee to plug the hole. This way I can reinstall the line if I need to later on down the road if I need to.
Follow the black line back and about halfway back on the passengers side it T's. Remove the remainder of the line and cap it off at the rear of the T.
Behind the battery and the starter relay is another fitting. Remove the black line and plug off the fitting on the lower Blue/White check valve. The fitting that needs capped off points back to the engine.
On the drivers side you can remove all of the lines except the one red line that goes to the EVAP "VMV". (just above and to the left of the brake booster.
I had the Boost Bypass done in my tune so I removed the pink line and capped off the front fitting on the valve. (Just above the P on the valve)
The rear line stays where it is. It goes to the fitting on the air intake tube.
This is where I cut down the bracket and mounted the BAP sensor to the intake post. Just gets it out of the way for future SC removal.
There is one fitting on the lower intake between coil #5 and #6. While your there use a small hose clamp or wire tie around the rubber fitting to secure it. There are two lines that come out of this fitting. Red and Black. Red goes to the fuel pressure regulator and black goes to the firewall for the boost gauge inside the cab.
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