Electric fan install ??'s

[St8-E]

Just installed a black magic x-treme electric fan...it is currently pulling air from the rad towards the engine...this fan can either pull or push air...I was under the impression that the stock fan pushed air through the rad...Should it be pushing or pulling air and does it matter?

Does anyone have an easy wire to find on the ignition coil side that is an ignition hot wire? I don't want the fan running on a constant hot wire because I don't want the fan running while the car isn't running...I have to splice a 14 ga wire into that wire for the ignition controlled 12v power source (for thermostatic control)

Thanks!!

 

[cotchnobra]

there is 2 ways to hook up the fan with a realy and a temp sensor.

first example is without a 12v ignition sourcehttp://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/5-0l-tech/4626d1086679439-does-wiring-diagram-my-electric-fan-look-ok-wiring.jpg

second example is using a 12v ignition source
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/5-0l-talk/120323d1295941405-electric-fan-wiring-b27_fan_relay2.jpg

if you choose the second example you can use this tool Motormite/Conduct-Tite! 6 and 12 Volts DIY circuit tester with power on (86599) | Circuit Tester | AutoZone.com by turning the ingnition to on and then finding a wire that lights it up and then turn the ignition off. if the light goes out you found your 12v ignition source if not just repeat the process till you do find one where the light goes out when the ignition is turn off. to give you an exact location for a 12v ignition source it would be pretty hard as there are alot of wires and they are not labled. the only exact location of one that I know of is at the connector of the ignition coil itself. there are only 2 wires on it and one is a 12v ignition power source. But I dont suggest you use it for the fact that it is what gives the power to you distributor and you dont want any extra strain on it that is not neccessay. If you got more questions feel free to pm me.

 

[buddha93]

You always want a puller, period.

Make sure your using a relay with the fan. You could put it on a manual switch, or use a contoller. There a several out there.

 

[St8-E]

The fan came with it's own temp. control module...I am so sorry for my stupidity, but when you say a "puller"...you mean that it is pulling air from the front of the car towards the engine? or visa versa...

 

[buddha93]

The fan came with it's own temp. control module...I am so sorry for my stupidity, but when you say a "puller"...you mean that it is pulling air from the front of the car towards the engine? or visa versa...

Correct, front of car, towards the engine.

If it has a control module, you shouldn't have to worry about it running all time. Just find any wire that is hot with the igintion.

 

[St8-E]

Correct, front of car, towards the engine.

If it has a control module, you shouldn't have to worry about it running all time. Just find any wire that is hot with the igintion.

Thanks Budda,

Yeah, I just didn't know if anyone knew of one that stood out to them that is on the coil side of the engine that is hot with ignition that I could easily find and splice into. Like Cotch said previous, I don't want to splice into a wire that controls a vital engine electrical function.

 

[buddha93]

Without looking knowing how the module works, I'm guessing you have an ignition hot and a power hot, correct? More than likely that's what it should be. All the module is a relay with a temp switch wired into it. The ignition hot isn't supply the power to the fans, it's merely "arming" the module/relay. So with that being the case, you can tap into anything that goes hot on the ignition without any worries.

There are plenty of wires that are in the loom that runs along the strut tower on the driver side. I can't remember which ones off the top of my head though.

 

[St8-E]

here is the link to the directions I used to install...I followed every one of them to the T...on page 2 of the install directions there is a wiring diagram. The particular wire I am talking about is the Ignition Controlled or Constant 12V power source (For Thermostatic Control). Direction # 11d. explains what it's for, etc. Other than that, I already have everything wired as it is on the diagram (Minus the A/C option, will do that at another time, gotta figure out which of the A/C wires i would have to splice)

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/185-99185.pdf

i know the loom you are talking about and I was thinking the same about those wires inside there...just gotta figure out which one would be the best to splice off of...

 

[buddha93]

No, no. Don't splice anything. This is what you need:

3M (22-18) Wire Taps Red 25 Pcs.

They work fine for what you need to do.

And yes, it looks to be what I thought.......nothing more than a relay. Do have the probe with this kit?

 

[St8-E]

The temp. probe? Yes., it came with that. I bought this used from a friend...it had like 300 miles on it...only thing I didn't get was the wiring and connectors. Concerning the taps...sorry I used the wrong terminology...I was extremely anal about routing the wires, using looms, etc...i'll post pics when i am done...I did the PA Performance 130A alternator upgrade @ the same time...

 

[buddha93]

You should be good to go then. If you have a VM, you shouldn't have any problem probing a few spots or tracing a few wires back that you know are hot with the key on.

 

[cotchnobra]

No, no. Don't splice anything. This is what you need:

3M (22-18) Wire Taps Red 25 Pcs.

They work fine for what you need to do.

And yes, it looks to be what I thought.......nothing more than a relay. Do have the probe with this kit?

I'm not a big fan of these for anything that is going to pull a decent load. for the relay activation portion they are fine very small electrical load but for the actual fan power i perfer to splice and better yet solder the connection. Not saying that those dont work I personally don't like using them on anything with a heavy electrical load.

 

[buddha93]

I'm not a big fan of these for anything that is going to pull a decent load. for the relay activation portion they are fine very small electrical load but for the actual fan power i perfer to splice and better yet solder the connection. Not saying that those dont work I personally don't like using them on anything with a heavy electrical load.

Agreed. That's all I was implying to use it for. You don't need much for the ignition side of things.

But speaking of that, make sure you run the power supply from one of two places, the battery or the positive side of the stater relay.

 

[St8-E]

Agreed. That's all I was implying to use it for. You don't need much for the ignition side of things.

But speaking of that, make sure you run the power supply from one of two places, the battery or the positive side of the stater relay.

I don't know how much is TOO much to run to that solenoid...the PA performance kit came with a huge guaged power wire that I have running to the solenoid...I thought it would be a little overkill on that solenoid to run another wire from the fan to there, so I put it on the actual POS. battery terminal...I would rather put it on the solenoid (looks A LOT cleaner)...Just so i have the correct terminology, the solenoid I am speaking of (I am assuming you are meaning the same thing with the "starter relay") is the circular looking black "thingy" that is right next to the ignition coil...

 

[buddha93]

I don't know how much is TOO much to run to that solenoid...the PA performance kit came with a huge guaged power wire that I have running to the solenoid...I thought it would be a little overkill on that solenoid to run another wire from the fan to there, so I put it on the actual POS. battery terminal...I would rather put it on the solenoid (looks A LOT cleaner)...Just so i have the correct terminology, the solenoid I am speaking of (I am assuming you are meaning the same thing with the "starter relay") is the circular looking black "thingy" that is right next to the ignition coil...

Yep, that's it. Your not going to hurt anything. The post is hot from the battery side of things, so you basically just pulling power from the battery, just in a different location.

 

[cotchnobra]

You are correct it is the round black, light brown or grey thing with a cable from the battery going to it next to the ignition coil. that is a good spot since you can use a terminal lug and attach it right there with the POS cable coming from the battery. Not related to wiring but I had a starter solenoid/relay go bad and the car would keep cranking with the engine already started or with the key off. I would have to pop the hood and smack it a couple time to unstick the contacts inside of it so the starter would stop cranking. first time it happened I didn't know what to do and I killed the battery. Sorry about the sidetrack just wanted to share that in case it happens to anyone in the future.

 

[buddha93]

Yep, same thing happened to me years ago from a brand new one I bought from the local auto parts store. Luckily I was at home.

 

[cotchnobra]

Yep, same thing happened to me years ago from a brand new one I bought from the local auto parts store. Luckily I was at home.

hey buddha I see you are from STL. I grew up there and lived off 55 and loughborough till I went in the navy

 

[TX93Cobra]

take pictures of the wiring. would like to see it all.

 

[St8-E]

TX,

I will take pics of everything once it's finished...only problem is, you really can't see any of the wiring...I loomed EVERYTHING and ran it between the core support and rad...Once I figure out where I am going to run that last small wire, it'll be done...