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2013-14 Shelby GT500
Enclosed Trailer
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<blockquote data-quote="Jam421" data-source="post: 16283687" data-attributes="member: 110985"><p>Steel plating would work. I almost did the same. I used doubled angle iron to brace my winch on 2 different trailers. Sold both trailers years back .... but the bolts went thru the angle iron ( Thick Fender Washers), then thru the 2x4 steel trailer chassis floor supports + 3/4" flooring + a larger 2nd platform of 3/4 ply under the winch. Once complete you could have the angle iron welded but mine pulled light Cobra kit cars, Corvettes, a Shelby, Chevy Blazer & a small Chevy truck without flinching. Just be sure each of your angle irons( or steel plate) cross both A-Frame 2x4 Steel Chassis Beams underneath. My winches were rated 6000-7000# (Craftsman/Harbor Freight) both with the most necessary 30' Extended Remote Controller. </p><p></p><p>Having the bare wood walls is not so bad. One advantage is you have direct access to all running lights. You can hook up additional Amber Running Lights along each side same height & same sizes as the factory runners. An extra Red Turn Signal on each side near front of the trailer helps a car next to the trailer the Turn Signals. People don't look !</p><p></p><p>On the back door 2 larger round Red Brake Lights higher up on the rear door ( again just hooked in series) made sure even cars up close can see me hit the brakes. * Be sure NOT to go so high as to interfere when you lower the door to ramp. Maybe 2 feet from the top?</p><p></p><p>For safety checks at night I had inside wall switched White Outside 12V Lights. With exposed walls you can throw a couple of 12V receptacles inside the trailer accessories like air compressors. On ceiling rafters 2 extra 12V White Lights are easy series hook ups to factory ceiling lights . All these different colored lights identical to what the trailer manufacturer installed are available at Walmart. Just stay with proper gauge wire. You can pigtail connectors inside the trailer for replacement if needed. I never blew a fuse with these little mods and if a light happened to blow I just swapped in a new one but they lasted years.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jam421, post: 16283687, member: 110985"] Steel plating would work. I almost did the same. I used doubled angle iron to brace my winch on 2 different trailers. Sold both trailers years back .... but the bolts went thru the angle iron ( Thick Fender Washers), then thru the 2x4 steel trailer chassis floor supports + 3/4" flooring + a larger 2nd platform of 3/4 ply under the winch. Once complete you could have the angle iron welded but mine pulled light Cobra kit cars, Corvettes, a Shelby, Chevy Blazer & a small Chevy truck without flinching. Just be sure each of your angle irons( or steel plate) cross both A-Frame 2x4 Steel Chassis Beams underneath. My winches were rated 6000-7000# (Craftsman/Harbor Freight) both with the most necessary 30' Extended Remote Controller. Having the bare wood walls is not so bad. One advantage is you have direct access to all running lights. You can hook up additional Amber Running Lights along each side same height & same sizes as the factory runners. An extra Red Turn Signal on each side near front of the trailer helps a car next to the trailer the Turn Signals. People don't look ! On the back door 2 larger round Red Brake Lights higher up on the rear door ( again just hooked in series) made sure even cars up close can see me hit the brakes. * Be sure NOT to go so high as to interfere when you lower the door to ramp. Maybe 2 feet from the top? For safety checks at night I had inside wall switched White Outside 12V Lights. With exposed walls you can throw a couple of 12V receptacles inside the trailer accessories like air compressors. On ceiling rafters 2 extra 12V White Lights are easy series hook ups to factory ceiling lights . All these different colored lights identical to what the trailer manufacturer installed are available at Walmart. Just stay with proper gauge wire. You can pigtail connectors inside the trailer for replacement if needed. I never blew a fuse with these little mods and if a light happened to blow I just swapped in a new one but they lasted years. [/QUOTE]
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