Factory Speaker Replacement Recommendations

[dirtyd88]

Like the title says, I am looking to replace the factory speakers in my 2013. Non-Shaker sound system, so I have the wimpy, paper cone, 15W (or whatever they are) factory speakers. Now they don't sound bad, but the upper volume range leaves some to be desired. I listen to majority Texas/Red Dirt Country with some classic and current rock throw in from time to time. I'm not looking for CRAZY bass from a non-sub, but I want a good mid range that gives me a little bump, just enough to fill the lower frequency want of my ear drum.

I'm not looking for components as I'm not really going after a huge install right now, most likely a 3-way or VERY good coaxials, and I want to keep my factory deck. I want to get something with a minimum 100W RMS, as I will be eventually providing some added power with a Alpine 4-channel amp that supplies 90W RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohms.

So what would be y'alls suggestions? Should I replace with more 6x8s, or find a good set of 6.5s? Also, should I keep 6x8s in the rear deck? Or replace those with a smaller diameter speaker as well?

 

[PLASMAN]

Just did kicker 2 way 5 1/4 component in the factory plate a week ago and it was one of the best mods yet. It cleaned up the mids n highs, and the door woofer is doing its job right now. Before it was flat and muddy.

If you want to hear it i'm free this weekend. I do have shaker 500. Don't forget if you do 6x8 you will have to order the door mounts cause the 13 has a 5 1/4 and tweet in the door. It takes literally 30 minutes to do.

 

[TheVikingRL]

IMO you won't get the "bump" you're looking for out of the stock location, even with new speakers. First you need to separate the power for the bass/midbass from the mids and highs. I'd look at replacing the rear deck speakers with a set of good 8" free-air subs running off of a dedicated amp w/built in crossover. You will be infinitely happier than trying to make the door speakers produce any real bass.

Just run a new pair of door speakers off the factory amp and roll off naturally. Or run them on separate channels on your new amp. I really like the JL C5's but there are lots of good options/opinions for the doors. Separates are really only worth the trouble IMO if you know how to place/aim the tweeters.

 

[kingcobra323]

Plasman. Did u switch out the sub? Or stock?

 

[PLASMAN]

Plasman. Did u switch out the sub? Or stock?

I left the sub because now that the mids and highs have been cleaned up it actually sounds good. I was in the market for the kicker door subs until I found out you need an impedance of 1.8ohms and a DVC sub would be $150. The factory door subs sound real good now...

 

[dirtyd88]

I think there is some confusion. I have a base model 13. NO shaker system. I'm not looking to get sub quality bass from the door speakers, just something to fill out the frequency range, like you're listening to a nice mellow bass guitar, and crispen up the clarity of the factory radio a little bit.

I don't really want to put money into a sub setup right now (a reason I sold my old setup because I wasn't going to reinstall it), but I'd like to at least up the ante of the speakers from that of what Ford puts in from the factory. If that cannot really be done with simply replacing the crappy, NON-shaker 6x8 speakers with an amp, then I will forgo this and wait until I have money to invest in a better setup.

 

[PLASMAN]

Sorry Derek I forgot its base. So does the base not have a door woofer at all, just a 6x8 all in one speaker?


I would still replace it with any aftermarket 3 way if your looking at a budget buy and it will sound 10x better.

 

[TheVikingRL]

Plan B: Run new door speakers off the factory deck. Buy any decent amp (w/crossover and speaker lvl input)and run a new set of 6x8 deck speakers with the low pass at about 200hz. They don't need to be the as good as the door speakers, just something decent. Tweak the amp gain until you get the sound you're looking for.

Will only cost you an extra set of speaker over your original plan and setup will be stupid easy. This will sound much better than just doing the doors alone.

 

[dirtyd88]

Sorry Derek I forgot its base. So does the base not have a door woofer at all, just a 6x8 all in one speaker?


I would still replace it with any aftermarket 3 way if your looking at a budget buy and it will sound 10x better.

All good, Don. It is just a simple 6x8 as far as I know. Although I have never removed the door panel to make sure. =\

 

[Chameleon76]

Alpine 6x8 cheap cost and a decent upgrade.

 

[dirtyd88]

Plan B: Run new door speakers off the factory deck. Buy any decent amp (w/crossover and speaker lvl input)and run a new set of 6x8 deck speakers with the low pass at about 200hz. They don't need to be the as good as the door speakers, just something decent. Tweak the amp gain until you get the sound you're looking for.

Will only cost you an extra set of speaker over your original plan and setup will be stupid easy. This will sound much better than just doing the doors alone.

Thanks man, that sounds very reasonable and should work with what I'm after for the time being (exhaust still rules over the radio sometimes)

The amp I plan on using is a Alpine MRP-F550 (http://vault.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/MRP-F550_OM.PDF). It does 90W rms x4 @ 4 ohms, 125W rms x2 at 2 ohms and 250W rims bridged x2 @ 4 ohms. It has an LPS and speaker lvl inputs too.

I have some Polk db570 5x7 speakers (60 rms/180 peak) left from a small project, so would those possibly be candidates for the rear deck?

 

[dirtyd88]

Alpine 6x8 cheap cost and a decent upgrade.

Finding new alpines right now, depending on what you are looking for, may be tricky since they went out of business last year (I just learned that today)

 

[Chameleon76]

Sps-517 should be on ebay or amazon

 

[kingcobra323]

Dirtyd hope it sounds good. Thanks for info Plasman

 

[dirtyd88]

Sps-517 should be on ebay or amazon

I'll look those up. Thanks

 

[TheVikingRL]

Thanks man, that sounds very reasonable and should work with what I'm after for the time being (exhaust still rules over the radio sometimes)

The amp I plan on using is a Alpine MRP-F550 (http://vault.alpine-usa.com/products...RP-F550_OM.PDF). It does 90W rms x4 @ 4 ohms, 125W rms x2 at 2 ohms and 250W rims bridged x2 @ 4 ohms. It has an LPS and speaker lvl inputs too.

I have some Polk db570 5x7 speakers (60 rms/180 peak) left from a small project, so would those possibly be candidates for the rear deck?

That amp and those speakers will work great. I mentioned in a thread earlier today the space right between the deck speakers (underside) is a easy place to mount an amp and keep it out of the way (and out of site). Not saying it's the most convenient spot for adjustments but once they're setup most people rarely touch them again anyway.

 

[TheVikingRL]

I know some of the Pioneer's have also been very popular as replacements for the door speakers. Do a search and you'll find a lot of positive feedback on these.

 

[prn1972]

Shelby Kicker Premium Sound System: Shaker Systems

This is what I have decided to do, it replaces all the speaker & amp, you can add the sub in the trunk too if you want, its all plug & play, no wires to run

 

[shadowstang03gt]

Can u use the the factory shaker door grille?

 

[TheVikingRL]

Can u use the the factory shaker door grille?

Not with the Kicker stuff. I tried using their woofers first (now have ZR800's) but they bond a plastic ring to the metal frame which would need to be removed to use the factory grill. It looked all but impossible to remove without completely destroying the speaker itself.