Fiore FW adjuster and quad = pedal on the floor (HELP)

[Black10thSVT]

Well I just had a new clutch put in last week and it has been fine. Pedal effort was smooth.

Moving on to today I went to install the Fiore FW adjuster and quadrant. Got three of the four bolts in. Thought I was doing good. After every thing was in I started to adjust every thing and had no luck. With FW adjuster almost touching the cam cover it just fell to the floor only starting to disengage when it hit the floor.

I put the LDC freeplay kit on it hoping it would help. I felt the same with exception that it now felt springie. So I take my self over to Latemodelrestoration and picked up a steeda Quick release quadrant. Put it on with the cable on the hook closest to the fire wall. It helped a little but it felt like the cable still had to much slack, and the adjuster was almost all the way out. So decided to use the one near the driver. To do this I had to put the FW adjuster all the in to the fire wall. I was able to put the quadrant on by hand without removing the cable from the fork. This seams to have fixed the problem but the cable feels tight. However the clutch pedal seams to move about an inch or so before I feel it disengage.

I used the OEM cable, because it only has 23000 miles on it.

So I guess the questions are.

Is it ok for the cable to have tension on it? (Feels like alot to me)

Does the cable disengaging after about a inch to an inch and quarter travel sound right? (starts to disengage just above the brake pedal)

Do you guys think the stock cable could be stretched after 23000 miles?

Not hearing the TOB when the car is running!

I just don't want to hurt the clutch before it gets broke in.
As for the clutch its a new fomoco pressure plate, custom built six puck, and a 03 mach1 iron flywheel (had 7000 miles on it when turned).

Before I posted this I searched and read for a couple hours on here, and just couldn't find the answer I was looking for. So yalls thoughts and imputs are welcome cuz Im just not sure.

May have to add a few later

Thanks Gabe

 

[SnakeBit]

You said:

So I take my self over to Latemodelrestoration and picked up a steeda Quick release quadrant. Put it on with the cable on the hook closest to the fire wall.

But, the Steeda QR only has one hook. The standard ramp Steeda quadrant has 2, but that quadrant is the same ramp as the Fiore.

I adjusted my clutch with the car up on jackstands and engine running in neutral. With the inspection cover removed, I adjust until the TOB just stops spinning (I also have the LDC Freeplay spring installed). Light hand pressure on the clutch arm makes the TOB touch the pressure plate and begins spinning.

Also, check where your clutch arm is in the opening of the side of the bellhousing. If it is too close to the engine at rest (just touching the pressure plate), then it's unlikely you have enough stroke. If that is the case, then you will need to pull tranny and either shim your pivot or install an adjustable pivot.

If the pivot is ok, then your cable could be stretched.

 

[RussZTT]

What clutch did you install? It sounds like you may need to shim the pivot pall.

Edit: Just read the above posters imput, I agree with the shimming.

 

[Black10thSVT]

You said:
But, the Steeda QR only has one hook. The standard ramp Steeda quadrant has 2, but that quadrant is the same ramp as the Fiore.

I adjusted my clutch with the car up on jackstands and engine running in neutral. With the inspection cover removed, I adjust until the TOB just stops spinning (I also have the LDC Freeplay spring installed). Light hand pressure on the clutch arm makes the TOB touch the pressure plate and begins spinning.

Also, check where your clutch arm is in the opening of the side of the bellhousing. If it is too close to the engine at rest (just touching the pressure plate), then it's unlikely you have enough stroke. If that is the case, then you will need to pull tranny and either shim your pivot or install an adjustable pivot.

If the pivot is ok, then your cable could be stretched.

Then its the standard quadrant. It has 2 hooks.

I went ahead and installed a steeda adjustable cable this morning. I left the FW adjuster all the way in and also put the cable on the hook to the driver. With this done I tightend the cable below the car till the TOB was less than a 1/4 of an inch. Then I clicked the FW adjuster till the TOB was may be an 1/8 of an inch away from pressure plate. Give or take a bit. I think its closer now. just need to fine tune now.The TOB is not spinning with pressure plate as it was before.

^^^ Does this sound about right now?

As for the clutch fork is seam to be right around the middle of the opening. Its hard for to check the travel by my self. And the FW adjuster is out now, more that a 1/4 of an inch. Wont be able to tell how it does a high RPM's till it gets broke in. Only have 48 mile on the new clutch.

 

[SnakeBit]

That sounds right. I kept my revs below 4,000rpm for the first 500 miles (Spec 3+) and now it's perfect. No chatter. Believe me that wasn't easy for me to do because I have no self control when driving that car. It's all good now.
:beer:

 

[96badvenm]

OP, im having the same issue after my clutch install. I DID shim my pivot ball about 1/4 of an inch. The only way that i can keep the tob from spinning is to have the cable loose and then the clutch wont start to disengage till the floor. Im thinking that i need to shim the pivot ball more.

anybody elses input?

 

[CscottsSS]

Anyone figured anything out? I'm installing mine Thursday and this might help.....

 

[RoadRash]

OP, im having the same issue after my clutch install. I DID shim my pivot ball about 1/4 of an inch. The only way that i can keep the tob from spinning is to have the cable loose and then the clutch wont start to disengage till the floor. Im thinking that i need to shim the pivot ball more.

anybody elses input?

I also shimmed the pivot ball but not quite 1/4". Mine used to be ok, but now the I can't seem to get the TOB off the pressure plate and if I do, the clutch lets out all the way at the floor. This thing is driving me nuts. I just checked and I have the steeda 2 hook quad and fw adjuster. I also have the LDC freeplay mod as well as a 26 spline spec 3+ clutch with fidanza alum flywheel and D&D 26 spline input shaft & lethal TOB retainer.

The TOB arm is almost hitting the front of the trans and the TOB is still sitting on the pressure plate .. it is spinning but not squeaking. It will squeak when I press the pedal but not while running in neutral.

Could the TOB arm have come off the pivot ball? The arm does move side to side and make a banging sound. The TOB retainer is one from lethal, I would hope that wouldn't break (after only 5 months). Any ideas guys???

 

[wjurls]

IMHO an adjustable pivot ball is just a patch to correct a problem that lies elsewhere. Maybe a bent fork or a stretched or misrouted cable. I would never go that route myself. Something else must be wrong if you can't get that thing adjusted with the usual methods. Also I have never had much luck in trying to adjust the clutch to keep the TOB off the PP fingers in the long run. I get the best results with a little preload on the TOB. I would rather replace my TOB once a year then be constantly battling my car trying to get into first and reverse, or even worse, ruining my synchros.

 

[VincodeY]

I just git my clutch put in and I couldn't get the tob off the pp. It was on there ever so slightly. I have a stock cable with a fiore fw adjuster and quad. So, the tob squeeks but it shifts. Adjust the squeek out, shifts like poo. What's the deal? Could it be the cable routed wrong? It broke before and I spent an hour with it figuring how it went and I only really found one way. Anybody got pics of how it's supposed to be?

 

[wjurls]

It's exactly what I said in my post above. If I adjust for freeplay it shifts like shiat. IMHO the only way to get it to shift smooth and have freeplay will require a quick release quadrant with a steeper ramp.

 

[69gt4speed]

I have a spec 3+ and upr quick quad and the clickstop firewall adj. w a spring to take out freeplay. It works w stock modded cable fine.. I do have a lpr p/p option. Another deal could be the tob thickness, I've got the spec tob.

 

[RoadRash]

I have more input after dropping my tranny three times this week.

Shimming: Whether to shim or not depends on the freeplay between the PP and TOB (without the cable attached). If you have more than 1/8" freeplay, ADD more shim. If you have less than 1/8", take AWAY shim. This will allow the clutch fork to have the proper length of engagement. I know this to be true b/c one time I dropped the tranny and added 2 thick washers and lost ALL freeplay (and also tried NO washer and had too much freeplay - and a non-working clutch).

Mine still isnt right. I shimmed it with about 1/8" thick washer and I had about 3/16" to 1/4" of freeplay (PP to TOB without a cable on) but I decided not to pull it for a fourth time and reshim .. well, it is better than it was but the TOB still rides the PP if I adjust the clutch to release in the middle of the stroke.

Edit: I also added a new stock clutch cable and a new clutch fork.

Does anyone know if the Steeda Quick release quad will give MORE clutch stroke than a reg quad? I mean will it move the fork more (distance) or just more quickly??

 

[SnakeBit]

The QR quad moves the clutch arm farther for any movement of the pedal. That means if you have to push your pedal all the way to the floor, given the exact same adjustment, with a QR it may only take 3/4 of the way down for the same movement at the tranny.

 

[RoadRash]

The QR quad moves the clutch arm farther for any movement of the pedal. That means if you have to push your pedal all the way to the floor, given the exact same adjustment, with a QR it may only take 3/4 of the way down for the same movement at the tranny.

Excellent! That is exactly what I need! I had one on my 99 Cobra but I don't remember how much better it worked ..

 

[Evil Bender]

I have the old red Steeda QR ,it was recomended to me for use with the M&M clutch pedel highth adj piece. Works great with the Fiore FW adj and stock cable. On another note after MUCH reaserch and e-mails to Ford I removed my Freeplay kit and went back to puting a 5lbs preload on the TOB , that did more to solve my engament problems than anything. IMO.

 

[RoadRash]

..after MUCH reaserch and e-mails to Ford I removed my Freeplay kit and went back to puting a 5lbs preload on the TOB , that did more to solve my engament problems than anything. IMO.

Hmmm, I have heard that the clutch was designed to have the TOB riding on it but the TOB wears out SO FAST .. Since doing this, how long does your TOB last?

 

[69gt4speed]

Another option btw is the upr quick quad, it does the same thing, has a screw to hold cable in place also. They do of course add a lil pressure but mine is like 30# w the lpr p/p.

 

[SnakeBit]

I have the old red Steeda QR ,it was recomended to me for use with the M&M clutch pedel highth adj piece. Works great with the Fiore FW adj and stock cable. On another note after MUCH reaserch and e-mails to Ford I removed my Freeplay kit and went back to puting a 5lbs preload on the TOB , that did more to solve my engament problems than anything. IMO.

The only reason for the TOB riding the P/P all of the time is because of the oem quadrant. That's the only way they could make it self adjusting (when you pull up on the pedal) without going to a hydraulic setup. But doing that WILL make it wear out before the clutch does. In my case, it also caused (or helped cause) the retainer sleeve to break. Quality is Job 1. There are cars running a manual transmission all over the world where the TOB does NOT ride the P/P all of the time, they just aren't Fords.

IMO, the only time you should listen to Ford on ANYTHING is when you are still stock on the item you are asking about. If you have done any mods, their advice could be way off because ALL of their advice only pertains to stock. As far as Ford is concerned, you should not even change the color of the floormats.

 

[HELLFYR]

The only reason for the TOB riding the P/P all of the time is because of the oem quadrant. That's the only way they could make it self adjusting (when you pull up on the pedal) without going to a hydraulic setup. But doing that WILL make it wear out before the clutch does. In my case, it also caused (or helped cause) the retainer sleeve to break. Quality is Job 1. There are cars running a manual transmission all over the world where the TOB does NOT ride the P/P all of the time, they just aren't Fords.

IMO, the only time you should listen to Ford on ANYTHING is when you are still stock on the item you are asking about. If you have done any mods, their advice could be way off because ALL of their advice only pertains to stock. As far as Ford is concerned, you should not even change the color of the floormats.

Ricer :-D