While I was swapping out my stock rims for my summer rims, I thought I would make a video showing what I had to do to run these extremely wide tires.
Fitting 345/30R20 on my GT500
- Thread starter DutyCalls
- Start date
That fender lip rolling looks Great!
Nice video. I have 20X12's with no rolled lip, no spacers and no bumpstop bracket removal.
I found that the only time that the bumpstop would be any sort of an issue was when I put the car on a 2-post lift, which is rare, other than that I have had no contact at all with my 12's and the bumpstop, in 6-8 years with the 12's on my car. Since I do not have modified fender lips, I first tried 335/30's and they bulged just a little bit more past the fender than I wanted, so I backed off to 325/30's and have had no issues at all. I had to remove my Eibach shock boots, but other than that, no other mods to my car.
When I do use a 2-post lift, I simply roll a floor jack under the 8.8 before the suspension is extended, remove the rear tires/wheels and then let the lift pick the car up and the suspension extend. when the car comes back down, the 8.8 will set down on the floor jack saddle, I bolt the wheels back on, the tires go back on the ground, and I slide the floor jack out. I have done it a couple of time, it is no big deal.
The only time I found that the bumpstop removal is mandatory, is if encounters driving that drops the tire/wheel assembly out of the fender well as shown below, I have never had my car drop out like that, even when I turn into my 45 degree uphill driveway when one tire tucks in and the opposite side drops out, still no bumpstop contact.
Shown below, the rear body is supported by a jack stand (a small amount of Orange is shown ahead of the rear tire, that is the stand supporting the body), and the 12" Alcoa is resting on the bumpstop bracket. I have never been in a driving situation that drops my tire/wheel out like that.
R
Nice video. I have 20X12's with no rolled lip, no spacers and no bumpstop bracket removal.
I found that the only time that the bumpstop would be any sort of an issue was when I put the car on a 2-post lift, which is rare, other than that I have had no contact at all with my 12's and the bumpstop, in 6-8 years with the 12's on my car. Since I do not have modified fender lips, I first tried 335/30's and they bulged just a little bit more past the fender than I wanted, so I backed off to 325/30's and have had no issues at all. I had to remove my Eibach shock boots, but other than that, no other mods to my car.
When I do use a 2-post lift, I simply roll a floor jack under the 8.8 before the suspension is extended, remove the rear tires/wheels and then let the lift pick the car up and the suspension extend. when the car comes back down, the 8.8 will set down on the floor jack saddle, I bolt the wheels back on, the tires go back on the ground, and I slide the floor jack out. I have done it a couple of time, it is no big deal.
The only time I found that the bumpstop removal is mandatory, is if encounters driving that drops the tire/wheel assembly out of the fender well as shown below, I have never had my car drop out like that, even when I turn into my 45 degree uphill driveway when one tire tucks in and the opposite side drops out, still no bumpstop contact.
Shown below, the rear body is supported by a jack stand (a small amount of Orange is shown ahead of the rear tire, that is the stand supporting the body), and the 12" Alcoa is resting on the bumpstop bracket. I have never been in a driving situation that drops my tire/wheel out like that.
R
My buddy owns a body shop @northernautobody
The flares needed a tiny bit of filler to make them smooth.....I bought cowl hood and the front bumper had some bad stone chips so we were going to paint the whole car anyways.
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^^^^ I agree.
.........and what does it take for Shelby to put 345's on the rear.......about $17K for a widebody upgrade. I like the look of the rolled fenders, they look Great.......even factory looking at a glance. The body man did a GREAT job!
R
I suspected that to be how it was pulled off, because I can't imagine that the fenders could be rolled and come out that good without some bodywork/paint. Do you have any idea what offset the wheels were before you widened them? I thought I heard you say the spacer was .2". Is that correct?
You pulled it off nicely. Well done!
Very cool.
.2" spacer is correct.
I am not sure on the offset of the wheels , as I bought them in 2012.....I'm sure they are the standard offset forgestar uses for their 20x11
Next time you have them off, look for ET XX stamped somewhere on the inside of the wheel. The XX will be the offset. I'd expect it to be 52-56.
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And thought 315's where doing good.
Based on the collective knowledge of the forum, I have CS-14 rims and the rears are 20x11's with a 50 offfset. Havent removed the bump stop bracket but ordered revan racing's bump stop relocation kit.
With this offset I felt I could have gone with a 325x25x20 but wanted to take baby steps first.
How wide does everyone think I could go with the bump stop bracket removed.
Tires enroute are the R888R in the above mentioned size .... 315x30x20
Based on the collective knowledge of the forum, I have CS-14 rims and the rears are 20x11's with a 50 offfset. Havent removed the bump stop bracket but ordered revan racing's bump stop relocation kit.
With this offset I felt I could have gone with a 325x25x20 but wanted to take baby steps first.
How wide does everyone think I could go with the bump stop bracket removed.
Tires enroute are the R888R in the above mentioned size .... 315x30x20
Duty, that is sweet !! .... you are increasing my expectations to go wider once I wear out my new R888R's !!! sweet
The bumpstop limits the suspension movment up and down (suspension extension), not the rim/tire width. I had 335/30's on my 12's to start with and only when I would enter my right hand turn 45 degree incline driveway would I get a slight rub on one inner fender well and a 1/8" spacer fixed that, but then I changed to 325's and eliminated the rub and the spacers. I have never done any mods to my bumstop brakets, removal or otherwise. The bumpstop bracket comes into play with this kind of driving......
^^^^If this is part of an owners driving habits, the bumpstops are in the way on a GT500 with a wider tire/rim combination starting at about 11.25" and of course the tire width choice for the 11.25" rim.
Also to mention, when a car is lowered, there are occasions when the bumpstops do their job, cushion (or limit) the travel of the axle and body from touching. On a lowered car these contact points are closer so this contact can occur more frequently over bumps. removing the bumpstop bracket and relocation the bumpstop itself now allows the bumpstop to hit the rear sub frame rail instead of the original bracket.
I have a set of those bumpstop bracket relo's also, they were at first designed and manuf. by a member on this forum, they are very nice pieces, but since I have no issues with bumpstop brackets in my street driving habits, there was no reason to remove the bumpstop brackets and install the relo's.
R
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Bump stops only limit downward travel (compression) of the suspension. It has nothing to do with extension. Extension is usually limited by the shock absorber, but I have seen extension straps used on some off-road vehicles. When the bump stop bracket is removed, the bump stop is no longer able to make solid contact with the remaining structure of the car and could even push the bump stop out of the way and make abrupt contact. The bump stop relocation bracket moves the bump stop inboard about 3/4" so that the bump stop can make contact with the frame.
As to full or partial extension of the suspension, we don't all drive garage queens.
As to full or partial extension of the suspension, we don't all drive garage queens.
Thanks
My first set of wide tires was 325/30R20 on 20x11 no mods...you will be fine with 315s.
I wouldn't get the 325/25s...they are a bit short
Bump stops only limit downward travel (compression) of the suspension. It has nothing to do with extension. Extension is usually limited by the shock absorber, but I have seen extension straps used on some off-road vehicles. When the bump stop bracket is removed, the bump stop is no longer able to make solid contact with the remaining structure of the car and could even push the bump stop out of the way and make abrupt contact. The bump stop relocation bracket moves the bump stop inboard about 3/4" so that the bump stop can make contact with the frame.
As to full or partial extension of the suspension, we don't all drive garage queens.
^^^^Yes, and LOL!!! I know, I know!!
But in reality, you would have to put air shocks on the back of a GT500 to lift it to the point (or close) shown below to have to worry about bumpstop brackets in normal (not Dukes of Hazzard) street driving....and in reality I don't know of any race event, drag or on-track that would be an issue with wide rear rims/tires and the bumpstop brackets............well maybe if an owner Baja's their GT500? <<<That would probably fall into the Bo and Luke Duke category.....
R
Do you have pictures of the tire bulge profile with the 325 on the 11" rim? or installed pictures? I am always interested in 325/30 mountings to compare rim widths and tire profiles.
R
I agree. You just never know what you're going to encounter on the roads around here. There are a few whoop-dee-dos I can think of where you could illicit contact like that and it doesn't require you to jump a bayou. But it won't be pleasant on the down side of hitting them with any speed with my suspension. If you don't see bare metal on the bump stop bracket, it's probably a non-issue. I removed mine shortly after I put my wheels on, so I can't speak from personal experience. But I have hit road irregularities where it probably would have made contact. I do my best to avoid them when I know they exist.
We have pretty good roads around here, it is the train track crossings "that can bite ya". On a couple of occasions, under hard acceleration I crossed an area on the asphalt where a new layer had been installed so there was a "step" in the surface that I was not aware of, because my car is lowered and the bump stops are closer to the brackets, I had a hit......I was thankful that the BS's were hitting a brackets made for that function, and not the frame rails.
I agree with being aware and avoiding.....
R
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