Ford GT covers

manny231988

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Well I ordered the blue & brown PCV valves that I saw in another thread called out for the GT500s. I gather blue was stock & brown folks swapped to as an "upgrade". Cheap enough I ordered both.

JLP built my motor. It's a darton wet sleeved 3.7 big bore GT supercar block, MPR did the sleeves, JLP did the longblock & his CNC profile on my GT supercar heads. I had a 4.7 KB that I picked up barely used, but I changed my mind from polished, I was going to buy a black 4.7, but saw they now offered the 4.9, so I bought a black 4.9 instead and sold my polished 4.7 lol

View attachment 1505927
Damm that’s a bad ass motor my friend ya I was gonna get the 4.9 but ended up just getting the black 4.7 either way these things build crazy psi haha
 

manny231988

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Well I ordered the blue & brown PCV valves that I saw in another thread called out for the GT500s. I gather blue was stock & brown folks swapped to as an "upgrade". Cheap enough I ordered both.

JLP built my motor. It's a darton wet sleeved 3.7 big bore GT supercar block, MPR did the sleeves, JLP did the longblock & his CNC profile on my GT supercar heads. I had a 4.7 KB that I picked up barely used, but I changed my mind from polished, I was going to buy a black 4.7, but saw they now offered the 4.9, so I bought a black 4.9 instead and sold my polished 4.7 lol

View attachment 1505927
If you don’t mind me asking how much did you spend on your engine ?
 

Harley#356

9.89 @ 138.78 in a HD!
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haha thanks. Been my dream build for a while, and it's finally happening. Of course even on a "dream build" there's things I'd already do bigger & better if it's ever apart again haha, but it's leaps and bounds beyond my old 2v iron block 2.6 KB combo that I managed 9.8's in a big ol' harley truck.

Since the 4.7 & 4.9 are identical external dimensions, I decided to jump to the bigger one. I certainly won't be turning it up to it's peak potential, but I've already passed the point of just being excessive on this build, so what the heck, 4.9 it is haha

As for cost, it's hard to nail down an exact # since I bought a lot of the parts individually from various sources, did a lot of the leg work myself, I did have the full longblock assembled for me and the work associated with that, but then I got it back as a "bare" longblock (as in just an assembled longblock, w/o valve covers, rear main, etc.) and I've done everything else since.

Here's the breakdown of what I can recall off the top of my head. I do keep track of every penny on it, but engine-wise, here's off the cuff...
-$4500 for the GT supercar block, that was already darton wet sleeved
-$350 for wet sump conversion, that was half-azz done because they forgot to machine the dipstick hole and the flex plate bolt access hole (almost had a heart attack when I noticed no dipstick tube on a fully assembled longblock and I had to very carefully & precisely hand-drill that f'er!)
-$4500 for the GT supercar heads, supposedly worked by Mihovetz, but once I got them they appeared to only be lightly hand ported, so for ~900 JLP had them CNC ported to his Lightning Jet profile that he runs in his truck
-$12k-ish in everything else. This is where it gets vague unless I dig out the invoice from JLP lol. Machine work, heavy duty rods, 3.7 bore pistons, CJ crank, machine work on the crank, cams, ARP hardware, ATI balancer, stefs oil pan, etc. etc. etc.
-I also bought a lot of the ARP hardware myself for head studs, tensioner hardware, oil pan, timing cover, etc., forget exactly how much, few hundred worth
-I bought Shelby Mike billet tensioner arms & guides, MMR flipped billet 2ndary tensioner, MMR billet crank & trigger wheel, Cobra engineering upgraded/hardened guide pins & install fixture, etc. and provided all of those too, pry close to $1500-2k in timing components IIRC.

Ball park I'm about 20-25k into the longblock w/ all the bells & whistles added in. Top end I'm another 7-10k between the 4.9 ($5k), the CJ lower intake ($800), 1320junkie port work ($1k), pc work ($250), kb biggun ic ($1k), j2fab mod ($600), etc. Full exhaust another $3k for ARH 1-7/8 primaries to 3.5" full exhaust, custom doing 4v flanges on their LIghtning kit so it'll work in my truck.

So.....roughly/loosely 30-35k range for my full 4v conversion....crazy chit right!? Goes fast lol.....BUT.....I sold $27k in parts when I parted out my 2v setup, as I had practically the best of the best of everything on that as well. So to be out 5-10k from pocket when all is said and done, to go from 800 rwhp to 1200 rwhp isn't that bad. Just a lot of time, a lot of work, and a lot of fortunate luck to have been able to recoop such a big chunk out of my 2v combo to go 4v. No way could I ever afford nor want to do this starting from scratch with something stock with dildly squat to make back to put towards the build lol
 

manny231988

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haha thanks. Been my dream build for a while, and it's finally happening. Of course even on a "dream build" there's things I'd already do bigger & better if it's ever apart again haha, but it's leaps and bounds beyond my old 2v iron block 2.6 KB combo that I managed 9.8's in a big ol' harley truck.

Since the 4.7 & 4.9 are identical external dimensions, I decided to jump to the bigger one. I certainly won't be turning it up to it's peak potential, but I've already passed the point of just being excessive on this build, so what the heck, 4.9 it is haha

As for cost, it's hard to nail down an exact # since I bought a lot of the parts individually from various sources, did a lot of the leg work myself, I did have the full longblock assembled for me and the work associated with that, but then I got it back as a "bare" longblock (as in just an assembled longblock, w/o valve covers, rear main, etc.) and I've done everything else since.

Here's the breakdown of what I can recall off the top of my head. I do keep track of every penny on it, but engine-wise, here's off the cuff...
-$4500 for the GT supercar block, that was already darton wet sleeved
-$350 for wet sump conversion, that was half-azz done because they forgot to machine the dipstick hole and the flex plate bolt access hole (almost had a heart attack when I noticed no dipstick tube on a fully assembled longblock and I had to very carefully & precisely hand-drill that f'er!)
-$4500 for the GT supercar heads, supposedly worked by Mihovetz, but once I got them they appeared to only be lightly hand ported, so for ~900 JLP had them CNC ported to his Lightning Jet profile that he runs in his truck
-$12k-ish in everything else. This is where it gets vague unless I dig out the invoice from JLP lol. Machine work, heavy duty rods, 3.7 bore pistons, CJ crank, machine work on the crank, cams, ARP hardware, ATI balancer, stefs oil pan, etc. etc. etc.
-I also bought a lot of the ARP hardware myself for head studs, tensioner hardware, oil pan, timing cover, etc., forget exactly how much, few hundred worth
-I bought Shelby Mike billet tensioner arms & guides, MMR flipped billet 2ndary tensioner, MMR billet crank & trigger wheel, Cobra engineering upgraded/hardened guide pins & install fixture, etc. and provided all of those too, pry close to $1500-2k in timing components IIRC.

Ball park I'm about 20-25k into the longblock w/ all the bells & whistles added in. Top end I'm another 7-10k between the 4.9 ($5k), the CJ lower intake ($800), 1320junkie port work ($1k), pc work ($250), kb biggun ic ($1k), j2fab mod ($600), etc. Full exhaust another $3k for ARH 1-7/8 primaries to 3.5" full exhaust, custom doing 4v flanges on their LIghtning kit so it'll work in my truck.

So.....roughly/loosely 30-35k range for my full 4v conversion....crazy chit right!? Goes fast lol.....BUT.....I sold $27k in parts when I parted out my 2v setup, as I had practically the best of the best of everything on that as well. So to be out 5-10k from pocket when all is said and done, to go from 800 rwhp to 1200 rwhp isn't that bad. Just a lot of time, a lot of work, and a lot of fortunate luck to have been able to recoop such a big chunk out of my 2v combo to go 4v. No way could I ever afford nor want to do this starting from scratch with something stock with dildly squat to make back to put towards the build lol
Damm that sounds like a sick ass build, did I read right you got 3.7 custom pistons ? I’m sitting right around 10k on upper and fuel system plus the 20 for the engine money flies real quick but as you said this is my dream build too so I’m not gonna cheap out now. I want them wet Darton sleeves but Accufab think uses dry sleeves I guess I can ask John
 

manny231988

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Damm that sounds like a sick ass build, did I read right you got 3.7 custom pistons ? I’m sitting right around 10k on upper and fuel system plus the 20 for the engine money flies real quick but as you said this is my dream build too so I’m not gonna cheap out now. I want them wet Darton sleeves but Accufab think uses dry sleeves I guess I can ask John
haha thanks. Been my dream build for a while, and it's finally happening. Of course even on a "dream build" there's things I'd already do bigger & better if it's ever apart again haha, but it's leaps and bounds beyond my old 2v iron block 2.6 KB combo that I managed 9.8's in a big ol' harley truck.

Since the 4.7 & 4.9 are identical external dimensions, I decided to jump to the bigger one. I certainly won't be turning it up to it's peak potential, but I've already passed the point of just being excessive on this build, so what the heck, 4.9 it is haha

As for cost, it's hard to nail down an exact # since I bought a lot of the parts individually from various sources, did a lot of the leg work myself, I did have the full longblock assembled for me and the work associated with that, but then I got it back as a "bare" longblock (as in just an assembled longblock, w/o valve covers, rear main, etc.) and I've done everything else since.

Here's the breakdown of what I can recall off the top of my head. I do keep track of every penny on it, but engine-wise, here's off the cuff...
-$4500 for the GT supercar block, that was already darton wet sleeved
-$350 for wet sump conversion, that was half-azz done because they forgot to machine the dipstick hole and the flex plate bolt access hole (almost had a heart attack when I noticed no dipstick tube on a fully assembled longblock and I had to very carefully & precisely hand-drill that f'er!)
-$4500 for the GT supercar heads, supposedly worked by Mihovetz, but once I got them they appeared to only be lightly hand ported, so for ~900 JLP had them CNC ported to his Lightning Jet profile that he runs in his truck
-$12k-ish in everything else. This is where it gets vague unless I dig out the invoice from JLP lol. Machine work, heavy duty rods, 3.7 bore pistons, CJ crank, machine work on the crank, cams, ARP hardware, ATI balancer, stefs oil pan, etc. etc. etc.
-I also bought a lot of the ARP hardware myself for head studs, tensioner hardware, oil pan, timing cover, etc., forget exactly how much, few hundred worth
-I bought Shelby Mike billet tensioner arms & guides, MMR flipped billet 2ndary tensioner, MMR billet crank & trigger wheel, Cobra engineering upgraded/hardened guide pins & install fixture, etc. and provided all of those too, pry close to $1500-2k in timing components IIRC.

Ball park I'm about 20-25k into the longblock w/ all the bells & whistles added in. Top end I'm another 7-10k between the 4.9 ($5k), the CJ lower intake ($800), 1320junkie port work ($1k), pc work ($250), kb biggun ic ($1k), j2fab mod ($600), etc. Full exhaust another $3k for ARH 1-7/8 primaries to 3.5" full exhaust, custom doing 4v flanges on their LIghtning kit so it'll work in my truck.

So.....roughly/loosely 30-35k range for my full 4v conversion....crazy chit right!? Goes fast lol.....BUT.....I sold $27k in parts when I parted out my 2v setup, as I had practically the best of the best of everything on that as well. So to be out 5-10k from pocket when all is said and done, to go from 800 rwhp to 1200 rwhp isn't that bad. Just a lot of time, a lot of work, and a lot of fortunate luck to have been able to recoop such a big chunk out of my 2v combo to go 4v. No way could I ever afford nor want to do this starting from scratch with something stock with dildly squat to make back to put towards the build lol
what crank are you running ?
 

gt5008

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I have 03/04 cobra valve covers on my car. I had MPR build my engine. Sleeved Bryant billet crank Manley 300 m Rods Diamond pistons and all the upgraded timing components. I had it broke in with a Kenbell 3.6 . 1115 at 24 lbs . I am swapping know to the 4.7 I will see what it puts out after returning.
 

manny231988

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I have 03/04 cobra valve covers on my car. I had MPR build my engine. Sleeved Bryant billet crank Manley 300 m Rods Diamond pistons and all the upgraded timing components. I had it broke in with a Kenbell 3.6 . 1115 at 24 lbs . I am swapping know to the 4.7 I will see what it puts out after returning.
What you spend on you engine if you don’t mind me asking
 

Harley#356

9.89 @ 138.78 in a HD!
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Damm that sounds like a sick ass build, did I read right you got 3.7 custom pistons ? I’m sitting right around 10k on upper and fuel system plus the 20 for the engine money flies real quick but as you said this is my dream build too so I’m not gonna cheap out now. I want them wet Darton sleeves but Accufab think uses dry sleeves I guess I can ask John

Yes, it's a 3.700 bore darton wet sleeved GT supercar block, so it's got a complimentary set of manley pistons.

Depends what block your starting with for the sleeves. There's no way to dry sleeve a 5.4 GT block and get 5.8 displacement w/o going wet sleeve because the sleeve lands in the water passages to go big bore on the GT block. It's dry sleeved factory at 5.4 and you can't go all that much bigger w/o going wet (I guess unless you're running a filled block). Whereas the 13-14 trinity block you can dry sleeve to a 5.8 because the coolant passages are still outboard of that area. I'm not sure where the 11-12 GT500 5.4 aluminum block lands with room to sleeve if that can be taken to 5.8 dry.

More of this build came together from luck and timing than really having an exact plan forward when I started. I hurt my 2v iron block combo for the 2nd time in a row and I had enough of pushing the 2v PI head. Literally the day I was pulling the motor to get the head swapped the deal on the GT supercar block already wet sleeved popped up, and I couldn't pass it up because they're pretty rare, and this was already big bore. Then a week later I'm thinking I may just go GT block and stay 2v heads, and a 4.7 KB popped up for sale at a killer price, and the guy I bought my block from still had 4v GT supercar heads for sale, so I bought it all and made the jump lol. Makes the decisions a little easier when deals fall in your lap.

what crank are you running ?

It's a CJ crank, ATI balancer, and Kinetic crank saver ARP stud. I really wish I could have went billet crank, and looking back I should have for just a few grand more, but I'd be further out from finishing than I had wanted, and I figure between the kinetic stud, and I'm not running a 2 step, I'm not running a trans brake, and I'm not planning on running over 25 lbs, hopefully it'll live a while. My L buddy has snapped 2 cranks in his L so I know the pain quite well lol. But first time was due to a single key crank, second time was due to the crank bolt falling out. Double keyed, kinetic studed, and GT500 running the s/c belt inboard rather than slung way out like the L's, I feel a little better about it. If I ever refresh I'll go billet, but hopefully that's not for a long time. I'm going to have trans/driveshaft/rear woes before that point. Built 4R100 now, but we'll see what that'll hold.
 

manny231988

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Yes, it's a 3.700 bore darton wet sleeved GT supercar block, so it's got a complimentary set of manley pistons.

Depends what block your starting with for the sleeves. There's no way to dry sleeve a 5.4 GT block and get 5.8 displacement w/o going wet sleeve because the sleeve lands in the water passages to go big bore on the GT block. It's dry sleeved factory at 5.4 and you can't go all that much bigger w/o going wet (I guess unless you're running a filled block). Whereas the 13-14 trinity block you can dry sleeve to a 5.8 because the coolant passages are still outboard of that area. I'm not sure where the 11-12 GT500 5.4 aluminum block lands with room to sleeve if that can be taken to 5.8 dry.

More of this build came together from luck and timing than really having an exact plan forward when I started. I hurt my 2v iron block combo for the 2nd time in a row and I had enough of pushing the 2v PI head. Literally the day I was pulling the motor to get the head swapped the deal on the GT supercar block already wet sleeved popped up, and I couldn't pass it up because they're pretty rare, and this was already big bore. Then a week later I'm thinking I may just go GT block and stay 2v heads, and a 4.7 KB popped up for sale at a killer price, and the guy I bought my block from still had 4v GT supercar heads for sale, so I bought it all and made the jump lol. Makes the decisions a little easier when deals fall in your lap.



It's a CJ crank, ATI balancer, and Kinetic crank saver ARP stud. I really wish I could have went billet crank, and looking back I should have for just a few grand more, but I'd be further out from finishing than I had wanted, and I figure between the kinetic stud, and I'm not running a 2 step, I'm not running a trans brake, and I'm not planning on running over 25 lbs, hopefully it'll live a while. My L buddy has snapped 2 cranks in his L so I know the pain quite well lol. But first time was due to a single key crank, second time was due to the crank bolt falling out. Double keyed, kinetic studed, and GT500 running the s/c belt inboard rather than slung way out like the L's, I feel a little better about it. If I ever refresh I'll go billet, but hopefully that's not for a long time. I'm going to have trans/driveshaft/rear woes before that point. Built 4R100 now, but we'll see what that'll hold.
Ya I was gonna reuse my crank but after thinking about it goin billet
 

manny231988

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That's awesome man, accufab builds some badass engines.
Ya haha it’s funny but when I was calling quoteing my build and I was down to 3 of them, well I found out Accufab was building one of the other companies race engine, that’s when I was like well I better go with Accufab
 

Turbo98GT

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Write up on my Ford GT timing components here
https://www.powerperformancenews.co...lletproof-gt500-methodically-and-on-a-budget/
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31890977_1696661140423248_8313120449374453760_o.jpg
 

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