getting ready for a new set up

[NateDogg]

Sounds like a bad vac leak.

I had this happen when I put on a TVS a few years ago. Ended up being one of the vac hoses to the blower had a massive crack in it.

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[fivelitrecobra]

Sounds like a bad vac leak.

I had this happen when I put on a TVS a few years ago. Ended up being one of the vac hoses to the blower had a massive crack in it.

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I agree. Had a similar issue with most of the same symptoms as you have, it turned out to be a vacuum leak. Did you try spraying carb/brake cleaner around all the vac hoses and connections while the car is running? Unplug your MAF and start the car, I bet it smoothes out a lot.

 

[94slowbra1]

i hope you guys are right. vac leak sounds a less expensive than some scenarios that have run through my mind. i have to trace each line individually and see. biggest concern is why is the bower so loud?

 

[94slowbra1]

I agree. Had a similar issue with most of the same symptoms as you have, it turned out to be a vacuum leak. Did you try spraying carb/brake cleaner around all the vac hoses and connections while the car is running? Unplug your MAF and start the car, I bet it smoothes out a lot.

no i have not, i guess thats the least invasive thing to try so ill give it a shot.
what would unplugging the maf do?

 

[01yellercobra]

i hope you guys are right. vac leak sounds a less expensive than some scenarios that have run through my mind. i have to trace each line individually and see. biggest concern is why is the bower so loud?

Because with the low vacuum the bypass is closed its putting load on the rotors. Essentially the blower is making boost.

 

[94slowbra1]

Well i just went out and unplugged the maf and started the car. Fired right up and made a few big surges then it settled at about 1400. The blower was screaming loud, like hurt my ears loud and got hot real quick. Hot to touch in under a min.

 

[fivelitrecobra]

no i have not, i guess thats the least invasive thing to try so ill give it a shot.
what would unplugging the maf do?

From what my tuner explained when I was trying to diagnose my issue.... usually when there is a vacuum leak, more fuel gets dumped to compensate. In my case it was dumping almost 30% more because of the leak, that's where the strong raw fuel smell is coming from. I would bet your plugs are soaked also. When you unplug the MAF it reverts back to fuel tables from the factory, basically a fail-safe from destroying your motor if your MAF craps out is my understanding.

 

[94slowbra1]

From what my tuner explained when I was trying to diagnose my issue.... usually when there is a vacuum leak, more fuel gets dumped to compensate. In my case it was dumping almost 30% more because of the leak, that's where the strong raw fuel smell is coming from. I would bet your plugs are soaked also. When you unplug the MAF it reverts back to fuel tables from the factory, basically a fail-safe from destroying your motor if your MAF craps out is my understanding.

Makes sense, thanks for clarifying. I unplugged it and it fires up and the idle is stable at around 1400. The blower is screaming and gets real hit real quick. I'll replace the plugs once I get it sorted out

 

[4sdvenom]

Have you looked at your boost gauge while starting the car and letting it idle?
Makes sense what was said about the bypass being closed so the blower is whining because it's making boost at idle!!! Also explains it getting hot very quick!!

Ken

 

[94slowbra1]

No movement on the gauge. Sits about 1-2lbs of vac. No boost build up. And the gauge does work. I put a vac pump on it and reads exactly what the gauge on the pump reads

 

[4sdvenom]

Is your boost ga

No movement on the gauge. Sits about 1-2lbs of vac. No boost build up. And the gauge does work. I put a vac pump on it and reads exactly what the gauge on the pump reads

Is your boost gauge on a dedicated line or are the other vac/boost signal lines tied into the same line?

 

[94slowbra1]

Boost gauge, fuel pressure regulator and frps are all on the same port. I separated the boost gauge to make sure it was reading correct

 

[4sdvenom]

Boost gauge, fuel pressure regulator and frps are all on the same port. I separated the boost gauge to make sure it was reading correct

Got it!!
Yep you ruled out that!

 

[94slowbra1]

I've tried to isolate the lines. Biggest question now is the intake gasket.

 

[MG0h3]

I replied in your other thread but sounds like the bypass is closed.

Maybe you have a vacuum leak that’s affecting that system so it’s actually a symptom of the problem.

Or if the bypass is closed, that is causing the low vacuum. Can’t really build boost with the throttle blade closed, but you won’t see vacuum like normal either. Just thinking out loud. Never had to deal with this type of failure first hand.


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[94slowbra1]

I appreciate all the feedback and ideas, please keep them coming if you haven't seen it posted yet.
I'm heading out of town and wont be able to get back at this for about a week at least. Plan is to pull the blower and intake again. Peak inside the v/c just to make sure I didnt f something up. Get new intake gaskets and trace every vac line from engine to ending source. Pull blower from intake and make sure the blower itself is ok ( the loud whine has me suspicious). Gap and install nee plugs and button it all back up.
Will update this once I get all that done
Thanks again for all the help guys!

 

[94slowbra1]

Ok so I had a few mins today so I couldnt resist. Pulled the blower, again. This time I separated it from the intake and i/c. The little bit of rotor I see looks good, I confirmed the bypass is opening and closing like it should, and I spun it by hand easily with no noise. So I'm guessing the blower is in good health and functioning properly. Thank god, I was a little nervous something was wrong with the blower and that would be a big $$$ issue.
So I'm going to fully reassemble the blower and intake and clean everything. I have brand new intake gaskets ready to go. I'm going to trace every vac line to make sure they are in good shape and hold vac.
While I have it off is there anything else I should be looking for or checking? Hopefully this is my last time.
Thanks

 

[94slowbra1]

And its alive and well. Honestly I still dont know what the reason was but my money is on the intake gaskets.
I ran all new vac lines to everything today. Some of them had small leaks but nothing like what I was experiencing a few days ago. Also I pulled a vac line once it was running right to see if it replicated my problem and it did not. So i doubt it was a vac line but now i know they are all up to par.
The old intake gaskets didnt have any noticable problems but my new ones definitely looked better.
Checked the boost bypass with the vac pump and it opened at 5lbs of pressure and held steady the whole time. Blower rotors looked good and it isnt getting hot anymore
So now i need the tidy everything up and get it back on the street.
While all this was going on i also put in my j2fab 270 extreme alt. Warm idle is 14.65 volts with the fan and stewart emp pump running. Will do some logs and see what's happening when I'm cruising around.
Glad to be back!

 

[fivelitrecobra]

Awesome, glad to hear you got it fixed!

 

[94slowbra1]

you and me both brother. i didnt want a for sale ad with a bunch of go fast parts!