Got my PB and Grenaded an axle
- Thread starter RazorGTP
- Start date
Nice man, I have a CHe DS loop. Can you take pics of the install and post up any info?
Swarr Axle brace is pretty good too. Im running the FRPP G2 girdle cover with the Moser (ARP 2000) Stud kit and the Swarr clears it just fine. I actually had to have JBA Speedshop in San Diego shorten the Swarr when I installed my BMR LCA relo brackets. Unsure if the CHE needs to be modified to fit relos.
Thanks, I’ll look into the Che brace that Tony mentioned and see if I can make this setup last me until this winter then will re asses.
Ordered an eaton trutrac
Thanks for your input man, I’m just trying to get through this season. Was told these custom alloys are 30% stronger than the stock 31s so will see I guess.
You mean these guys didn't bend axles or have rear whining after all the drag strip testing?
Or was it a matter of accepting the weakness of the car and putting the cost to the owner to install a rear that could weather the torque and weight of these cars?
Stock cars are guilty of bending axles and having rear whine. Modified cars are essentially destroying them.
Or was it a matter of accepting the weakness of the car and putting the cost to the owner to install a rear that could weather the torque and weight of these cars?
Stock cars are guilty of bending axles and having rear whine. Modified cars are essentially destroying them.
Maybe that's why they went with the no stick Goodyear tires and limited the rear tires to a 285. Less strain on the driveline.
No problem, I'll be heading there in about an hour's time and will do pics while my friend installs the brace.
From what I've researched, the CHE brace is the only one that will "bolt on" to an 8.8 axle even if you have relocation brackets installed. They actually have a separate PDF for installation of the axle brace when you have relo brackets on (their own version and BMR ones).
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0917/6502/files/CHE9LReloBracketPrint.pdf?8938759257717753968
My car isn't lowered but I might in the future and this brace allows me to do that when I add the brackets.
Tony
I don't get why people are frying their diffs and axles on this car. There are people I know that beat on their cars at the track every weekend and I've never heard of them killing their 8.8" assemblies.
Either they had it built like a tank (and most of us thought ours might be built too like a tank then find out the hard way) or they find whole assemblies so cheap that they just re & re the whole thing after every outing and toss out the wrecked ones like junk.
Either they had it built like a tank (and most of us thought ours might be built too like a tank then find out the hard way) or they find whole assemblies so cheap that they just re & re the whole thing after every outing and toss out the wrecked ones like junk.
That's exactly what they did. I know several guys who had gear whine as soon as they went with a tire that actually hooked. While one or two others who had bent axles on the stock goodyears. Even when the stock hockey pucks get warm on the street, they can hook ok in 2nd.
I suppose the bottom line it came down to bean counters and compromising on certain parts to keep the car at a specific price point.
Most people got SVTPP and Torsen diffs which are great just don’t take drag shock loading. Axles are borderline at 660+hp in a heavy stick car as is the entire assembly. I went to track on stock tires to get my 11 sec 100% stock pass at 600 miles and left with gear whine. Then free labor to put in 4.10s
-J
My pics and install notes are in my "Mods begin again" thread, take a look there.
Tony
Most people got SVTPP and Torsen diffs which are great just don’t take drag shock loading. Axles are borderline at 660+hp in a heavy stick car as is the entire assembly. I went to track on stock tires to get my 11 sec 100% stock pass at 600 miles and left with gear whine. Then free labor to put in 4.10s
-J
I ordered an Eaton True trac, how will that compare to the stocker?
Thanks man, I’ll check it out.
I run a 33 spline True Trac its great in my experience.
-J
How do I properly fill the diff with a diff cooler being a TP car? I’m guessing I’d have to jump the pump to purge all of the old fluid first since stock fluid is synthetic and I was told not to run synthetic now with the new axles, truetrac and gears.
Anyone do this before?
Anyone do this before?
It looks like you need to remove the diff pump relay from the battery junction box and place a jumper between pins 3 & 5.
Differential Cooling Pump Wiring Diagram.pdf
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Thanks man but that’s for the tranny cooler. Happen to have one for the diff cooler?
Sorry about that. I added the diff pump wiring diagram and battery junction box to the wrong pdf.
Differential Cooling Pump Wiring Diagram.pdf
Differential Cooling Pump Wiring Diagram.pdf
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Perfect thanks! By chance do you have the diff fluid procedure too? Would like to see if you jump it while your adding oil, or after etc.
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