Everyone's definition of a "street car" is just dependent on what they're willing to put up with. Registration/tags/insurance is really all that qualifies a car as a street car when it comes down to it.
GT500 Buyer's Guide
- Thread starter jpro
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Everyone's definition of a "street car" is just dependent on what they're willing to put up with. Registration/tags/insurance is really all that qualifies a car as a street car when it comes down to it.
11-12 unless you HAVE to have a Trinity GT500. While the car makes 662 hp with the factory setup, the 2.66 1st and 3.31s will not help you in drag racing. I would also opt for the Non SVT Perf Pack on a 2013-2014 as the Torsen diffs arent capable, long term, of shock loading found in racing a manual trans GT500.
I know I could tell the difference between driving a Shelby with the iron block vs the aluminum block in my car. The spray on liners in the 11+ cars are very robust, and will hold together through a lot of power. Blowing a rod or piston will damage the liner and, assuming the block isnt trashed, require sleeves to correct the damage. Spray liners cannot be bored at all. Timing chain guide pivot pins are not as robust as iron block pins, so using a two step.launch controller isnt advised. The no lift shift feature of a WOT box is fine, but there is a lot of energy absorbed by those pins at a low engine rpm 2 step launch that can cause them to fail.
All told, it depends on what you plan to do with the car and hoe much you want to spend. An 11-12 with a TVS will be just as fast as a Trinity, probably faster due to gear ratio and 1st gear.
If all you care about is cheap and fast as hell, a 2015-17 GT Auto with blower kit will be your best bang for buck. Get a shelby because you want a Shelby.
I know I could tell the difference between driving a Shelby with the iron block vs the aluminum block in my car. The spray on liners in the 11+ cars are very robust, and will hold together through a lot of power. Blowing a rod or piston will damage the liner and, assuming the block isnt trashed, require sleeves to correct the damage. Spray liners cannot be bored at all. Timing chain guide pivot pins are not as robust as iron block pins, so using a two step.launch controller isnt advised. The no lift shift feature of a WOT box is fine, but there is a lot of energy absorbed by those pins at a low engine rpm 2 step launch that can cause them to fail.
All told, it depends on what you plan to do with the car and hoe much you want to spend. An 11-12 with a TVS will be just as fast as a Trinity, probably faster due to gear ratio and 1st gear.
If all you care about is cheap and fast as hell, a 2015-17 GT Auto with blower kit will be your best bang for buck. Get a shelby because you want a Shelby.
What is your budget, has a lot to do with what you'll buy.
2010 - new body style with an iron block.
2011/12 - aluminum block 5.4, 102 lbs. less weight in the nose, HID's, glass roof, other upgrades. 550 crank hp, mods are limited by your wallet.
2013/14 - aluminum block 5.8, 662 crank hp, mods are limited by your wallet.
Upgraded & expanded dash menus.
Recently found a 2014 GT500 with 894 miles on it for less than 50K..
2010 - new body style with an iron block.
2011/12 - aluminum block 5.4, 102 lbs. less weight in the nose, HID's, glass roof, other upgrades. 550 crank hp, mods are limited by your wallet.
2013/14 - aluminum block 5.8, 662 crank hp, mods are limited by your wallet.
Upgraded & expanded dash menus.
Recently found a 2014 GT500 with 894 miles on it for less than 50K..
Good question regarding budget...
There are two ways I think about this. First, the car wouldn't be a daily driver and would be in storage from probably Nov - April, so part of me says 11-12 because it would be crazy to pay $45k-$50k for a 13-14 car I will only drive a couple months out of the year. But...I like the 13-14 best, so if I'm going to pony up for a car that is for fun rather than a necessity, might as well get what I want. The funny part is, what I like best is the 350, so in my mind I sometimes tell myself that if I'm going to go 13-14, might as well tack on a few extra bucks and get a 350. What I really need is a job that allows me to own a 350 and a 13-14! LOL If we're talking "comfortable" in my budget, I'd obviously elect for the 11-12, so that's what I'm leaning towards. I could have a car I'm happy with for a price that is good for me.
I wouldn't mod it much at all, as I'm sure 500+ HP will be more than enough for me (my Terminator was too much for me!). Oh, and it would get mileage put on it. I intend to drive it, no garage queen for me. It's not going to be something I look at as an investment. In the year before I sold my Terminator I put less than 500 miles on it. I'm still sick thinking about all the nice days I missed out on. Then again, I had two kids under the age of 2 when I sold it. Kids are older now!
Fyi the gt350 is a dog in comparison to the gt500. I know, I've driven the gt350 and own the gt500. The gt350 severely lacks low end torque. Maybe some 4.10's would fix that idk. Beautiful cars for sure. Like the looks, the brake setup and the interior. I just couldn't live with the engine.
When he said the 07-10 were iron block and iron headed I knew right then he had no idea about GT500's. There is no iron cylinder head available for any mod motor. Seems to me he's rehashing info he heard second hand. Anyway, some of his info is correct but most of it isn't.
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