H pipe exhaust manifold nut rounded and seized...need help fast!

herdfan75

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I've been working for two days trying to get the transmission pulled from my 96 Cobra to replace the TOB and clutch. It's in my dad's garage so I need to get it done and it's fighting me all the way.

The way my H pipe is made the transmission looks like it will clear without removing it, but I can't get the rear transmission brace off because it wont clear the H pipe. So I set out to remove the H pipe. I got the two nuts off the driver side exhaust manifold, but the passenger side will NOT budge. I've tried PB blaster, Deep Creep, impact, and even a torch to get the nuts red hot and they still wont budge. Now, the top nut is rounded off just enough that the socket slips. I thought about putting a nut remover socket on the rounded nut but as I said, it wont budge even with a large breaker bar and I'm afraid of breaking the exhaust stud.

Has anyone ever used a nut cutter/buster on one of these nuts? I don't even know if I have enough room to get one of those on there (the bottom one is even worse as you know, but it's not rounded...still afraid of breaking the stud).

Dad suggests using an air chisel very carefully to cut a groove and maybe it will cause the nut to loosen enough to get a socket on it. If that doesn't work, then use the chisel to cut off the nut and clean up the threads with a self-tapping nut if I nick them.

Finally, it looks like there's an exhaust gasket on the passenger side. Why is it made that way? Why is it not like the driver side?

Anyone have any ideas? Just very frustrated. Took me forever to remove the drive shaft bolts as one was already rounded so we had to heat it and remove with vise grips which worked like a charm. As I said I also heated the nuts up front as well, but it didn't help. I can't use the torch again because the hose now has a hole in it (just my luck).

Any help is greatly appreciated. I have to get the transmission out tomorrow night no matter what so I can get it done by mid week. I still have to deal with reaching the top transmission bolts, but otherwise everything else has already been removed except the rear transmission brace.
 

herdfan75

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Also, in the event of breaking the exhaust stud, are they pressed in or screwed in? I'm thinking I'll have to remove the manifold if so. I don't plan on breaking one, but still, just planning! LOL. Is the nut size M10x1.5?
 

031tonHO

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Take an impact socket thats one size too small and beat it on to the rounded nut. Get you a big enough breaker bar/piece of pipe and I promise it'll come off.
 

ZeroDCX

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Studs are screw in type and nuts are M12-1.75, IIRC.

Do you have enough to weld to? You could weld on a nut and remove that way or attempt the double nut method.
 

herdfan75

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IMG_5801.JPG
Short story...trying to get the h pipe off to change the clutch and TOB on my 96 Cobra and one of the exhaust flange bolts is TIGHT. I've used heat, PB Blaster, etc and ended up rounding the bolt off. I had to resort to an air chisel and got half off but I can't get the rest of the thing off. Here's a pic. Any suggestions? I've worked on this for two days and I need to get it off! The threads look bad in the pic but really they are better than they look
 
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ZeroDCX

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That thing looks toast. The stud has to come off anyway, as you can't put a nut on that at this point. You almost might be better off using the air chisel to remove material around the stud, so it can clear the flange opening on the h-pipe/x-pipe and then replace the stud afterwards.

Is the bottom nut/stud off already?
 

herdfan75

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Yea the bottom nut is off. Think that top stud will come off? I was going to re-thread it when I get the transmission out.
 
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ZeroDCX

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Its "supposed" to be able to come off. They're threaded into the manifolds. But by this point, they have probably seized.

Mine comes off with the nut every-time I've taken off my mid-pipe. I always re-coat it with aluminum anti-seize before replacing it.
 

031tonHO

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I was going to go that route but I REALLY don't want to break that stud off.

If you had just used the smaller socket method, you might have gotten away without breaking the stud. Now, you've probably boogered it up so much that you're going to have to remove the stud.
Just cut the stud off right there at the flange and get your pipe and trans out. Once you have them out of the way, you can cut/punch the rest of the stud out and then just replace it with a bolt and nut
 

herdfan75

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Actually I tried hammering on a smaller socket but it wouldn't grip tight enough to turn the nut. I tried to go one size smaller and it just wouldn't hammer on. I also tried a nut extractor, but it wasn't deep enough. Trust me, the air chisel was a last resort.
 

96redcobra

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Just had a problem similar to this putting an X pipe on an 01. Luckily the whole stud came out of the manifold, tried to get the nut off but it would just turn on the stud. Local ford dealer had a new stud and nuts in stock
 

brucesvt

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Actually I tried hammering on a smaller socket but it wouldn't grip tight enough to turn the nut. I tried to go one size smaller and it just wouldn't hammer on. I also tried a nut extractor, but it wasn't deep enough. Trust me, the air chisel was a last resort.

Did you end up fixing your problem?


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

herdfan75

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No, I didn't get the opportunity to work on it the last couple of evenings. Tonight I plan to use a blunt tip on the air chisel to try to spin off what's left. Then I'll go ahead and remove the transmission and get everything replaced that needs it and work on the stud before I put the transmission back in. I'm hoping to re-thread it, but if not I'll try to remove the stud. Can I get this stud at the local auto parts store, or will I need to go to the dealer?
 

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