Had an alignment done

DaveMan

COBRA COMMANDER
Established Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2009
Messages
204
Location
Grande Prairie, AB
And I am not very happy. I gave them the specs the Maximum Motorsports has on the site and was given the print out after the alignment was done.

Here's how the alignment is now:
Left Front Right Front
Caster 4.6* Caster 5.0*
Camber -0.1* Camber -0.5*
Toe 0.05" Toe 0.05"

Left Rear Right Rear
Camber -1.1* Camber -1.23*
Toe 0.10" Toe 0.10"

The only thing he did was adjust the toe front and rear and didn't touch the camber or caster. The steering wheel is way off too.

How do these specs looks to you? Should the camber and caster match each side on the front? I have adjustable camber/caster plates too btw.

Worst part is I work at this place and the mechanic tells me it's the way it should be.

Opinions? And I just wanted a street alignment so it doesn't wear tires bad or anything. Just drag race it, no road coarse stuff.
 

mu22stang

[_==[_=_][_=_3[_=_< /_=_\
Established Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2009
Messages
2,013
Location
Houston
Better yet, take it to another shop. One that will do it right. If you can, look for one with ASE certified mechanics. Here's the stock setting ranges for reference.

Front: Left
Camber -1* to -0.6*
Caster 2.9* to 3.3*
Toe 0.09* to 0.17*

Front: Right
Camber -1.2* to -0.8*
Caster 3.1* to 3.5*
Toe 0.09* to 0.17*

Front
Cross Camber 0.0* to 0.4*
Cross Caster -0.4* to 0.0*
Total Toe 0.17* to 0.33*

Rear: Left/Right
Camber -1* to -0.6*
Toe 0.06* to 0.14*

Rear
Cross Camber -0.2* to 0.2*
Total Toe 0.12* to 0.
 

DaveMan

COBRA COMMANDER
Established Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2009
Messages
204
Location
Grande Prairie, AB
The toe was off and the mechanic said that was the only problem. I know he's full of BS though. Ever since I got this car he's insulted it and said it was a waste of money. Even though he raced an old POS Dodge and has to use a 175 shot just to get into low 12s lol

To me it looks like the only issue is me camber/caster in the front which is no big deal to adjust anyways.
 

svt2ner

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2004
Messages
965
Location
USA
I know I had issues when I aligned my car. Rear was near perfect, but just could not get the caster front dialed in with mm c/c plates. Turned out the car never sat evenly all the way around until I fixed that. Normal issue with these cars really. Just sayin.
 

DaveMan

COBRA COMMANDER
Established Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2009
Messages
204
Location
Grande Prairie, AB
I watched him do it and all he set was the toe. He didn't even attempt to adjust the camber or caster. Said it wasn't needed lol
 

Digital

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
3,414
Location
Miami, FL
If you didnt pay for it stop crying. If you did get your money back and stop crying.. Dunno the big issue here.
Take it to a real shop and show your dumbass mechanic how much better it is once it was done by someone who doesnt drive a car thats company is bankrupt.
 
Last edited:

svt2ner

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2004
Messages
965
Location
USA
A pro shop charge upwards $150 sometimes more for 4pt, or find someone in your area that works at a ford dealer and do it on the side for $20-40.
 

Speed Demon

Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2004
Messages
595
Location
Atlanta, GA
you have no where near enough camber and way to much caster.
I personally run on the front of my car
left ft right ft
-1.2* camber -1.5*
+2.8* caster +3.0*
+.05 toe +.05

If you can get someone to align the car with you or equivalent to your weight in the drivers seat is going to give best results. If you can find someone to do it that way equal the drivers side to the passenger side settings.
I run a stick axle in the rear of mine so no real settings to do on mine, but my experience is, stock settings in the rear will give you good handling and tire wear
 

DaveMan

COBRA COMMANDER
Established Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2009
Messages
204
Location
Grande Prairie, AB
If you didnt pay for it stock crying. If you did get your money back and stop crying.. Dunno the big issue here.
Take it to a real shop and show your dumbass mechanic how much better it is once it was done by someone who doesnt drive a car thats company is bankrupt.

I'm not crying jackass. I thought forums were for talking about stuff. Hmm guess not.....

To the rest of you, thanks for the help. Just thought I'd share my experience.
 

DaveMan

COBRA COMMANDER
Established Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2009
Messages
204
Location
Grande Prairie, AB
you have no where near enough camber and way to much caster.
I personally run on the front of my car
left ft right ft
-1.2* camber -1.5*
+2.8* caster +3.0*
+.05 toe +.05

If you can get someone to align the car with you or equivalent to your weight in the drivers seat is going to give best results. If you can find someone to do it that way equal the drivers side to the passenger side settings.
I run a stick axle in the rear of mine so no real settings to do on mine, but my experience is, stock settings in the rear will give you good handling and tire wear

My car is lowered and has the Brooks suspension package on it, will my numbers need to be different?

Here's what Maximum Motorsports says to align it to.
Caster 4.5* (for street vehicle)
Camber -0.5* (for street vehicle)
Toe is factory
 

black 10th vert

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2007
Messages
6,188
Location
MA
My car is lowered and has the Brooks suspension package on it, will my numbers need to be different?

Here's what Maximum Motorsports says to align it to.
Caster 4.5* (for street vehicle)
Camber -0.5* (for street vehicle)
Toe is factory

I'm surprised that MM olny has -.5 deg. of Camber. Generally it should be around 1 deg. to have good handling. If it were a track car, then even more, but you start to sacrifice tire life beyond 1 deg. For Caster, I like to run as much as I can, because that is what helps with high speed stability, and doesn't affect treadwear.
 

LargeOrangeFont

Raise your fist in resist
Established Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2004
Messages
4,271
Location
So Cal, South OC
I work at the place that did it. I talked to the mechanic and he's not interested in fixing it so I'll be taking it somewhere else. Or I'll come in on a weekend and get the apprentice to fix it with me helping him. Pretty bad....

LOL that is pretty rough man.
 

everythintek

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2008
Messages
137
Location
Everett,WA
i just had my car done. my old settings were:
Camber was LF -2.5deg RF -1.5deg
LR -1.9deg RR -0.9deg
Caster split was -1.0
Front toe was +0.50
Rear toe was -0.30 and thrust angle had the rear tires
turned to the right.

maybe the previous owner did a driveway alignment, idk? But i am within specs previously posted. Im glad all that info was here now i know i got a good alignment.
 

Fastphil

Bagged.
Established Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2006
Messages
1,153
Location
Ste-Marthe-sur-le-Lac, QC
I just had mine aligned on Friday. I have cut stock coupe springs, and no other aftermarket parts to help align the car. I wanted to see if I could get a decent alignment without having to buy CC plates, adjustable this and that, etc. and the results were just within the limits of acceptability. Here are the specs from the after-alignment printout:

Left front: Right Front:
Camber: -1.3 -2.0
Caster: 3.4 2.9
Toe: 0.07" 0.05"

Left Rear: Right Rear:
Camber: -1.2 -1.3
Toe: 0.07 0.06

As a side note, the technician knew what he was doing, and he told me that the only concern he had with the results was the tie rods being angled upwards due to the low ride height of the car. A bump-steer kit would fix this, but I don't have any bump-steer, so I don't think I will be adding that any time soon. He also mentioned that the camber adjustment at all four corners was basically maxed out. If I want to reduce negative camber, I will need aftermarket parts.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top