Halfshaft Kits are done!!

[Rick@Amazon]

We will be testing a replacement setup made for us maybe by next week. We found out the halfshafts are much larger on the 03's then the earlier models of coarse but the problem is at the CV joint. They neck the shaft down at that point to go into the oem CV joint and this is where they break.
The solution we're manufacturing is a entire replace unit which includes extreme duty CV joint w/cage and boot, extreme duty halfshafts that are not tapered at the end and a new inner joint and boot. This kit will be complete from one end to another and a true bolt in. The price will be $895 for the entire kit. I'm starting signup list for those who are interested. Give me a call for more details. (410)404-1413

Rick

 

[03 Red Cobra]

Originally posted by AmazonRacing
We will be testing a replacement setup made for us maybe by next week. We found out the halfshafts are much larger on the 03's then the earlier models of coarse but the problem is at the CV joint. They neck the shaft down at that point to go into the oem CV joint and this is where they break.
The solution we're manufacturing is a entire replace unit which includes extreme duty CV joint w/cage and boot, extreme duty halfshafts that are not tapered at the end and a new inner joint and boot. This kit will be complete from one end to another and a true bolt in. The price will be $895 for the entire kit. I'm starting signup list for those who are interested. Give me a call for more details. (410)404-1413

Rick

9 Bills?? I hope that includes installation and tax?

 

[CobraGirlSVT]

Will you be making anything for the '99 28-spline Cobras? There's a market for it, believe me.

 

[Randee of the Redwoods]

Originally posted by AmazonRacing
We will be testing a replacement setup made for us maybe by next week. We found out the halfshafts are much larger on the 03's then the earlier models of coarse but the problem is at the CV joint. They neck the shaft down at that point to go into the oem CV joint and this is where they break.
The solution we're manufacturing is a entire replace unit which includes extreme duty CV joint w/cage and boot, extreme duty halfshafts that are not tapered at the end and a new inner joint and boot. This kit will be complete from one end to another and a true bolt in. The price will be $895 for the entire kit. I'm starting signup list for those who are interested. Give me a call for more details. (410)404-1413

Rick

Hopefully "entire kit" means both sides. If so the case, it might not be a bad deal if they do prove stronger. If not, that's gonna be a hard sell to anyone less than a hardcore racer.

 

[blown03]

First you advertise this....

Now there is a halfshaft that will stand up to the torque of these cars. These shafts are made of 300m special double temper and heat treated. The splines are rolled for added strength. Kit comes with 4 new boots and clamps. $549

.......and then you come out with this:

We will be testing a replacement setup made for us maybe by next week. We found out the halfshafts are much larger on the 03's then the earlier models of coarse but the problem is at the CV joint. They neck the shaft down at that point to go into the oem CV joint and this is where they break.
The solution we're manufacturing is a entire replace unit which includes extreme duty CV joint w/cage and boot, extreme duty halfshafts that are not tapered at the end and a new inner joint and boot. This kit will be complete from one end to another and a true bolt in. The price will be $895 for the entire kit. I'm starting signup list for those who are interested. Give me a call for more details. (410)404-1413

How do we, as consumer's, know that you know what you are talking about?

You are advertising two packages. Which one solves the problem?

 

[Rick@Amazon]

If you just want to replace the halfshafts you can do that for $549 for both. I will be offering the entire kit as listed above which is everything for $895 for both sides. This gives the costumer two choices. Get a price for one side OEM replacement and you'll see this is extremely reasonable. We try to provide the customers with different options. These parts take an awfull amount of capital and r&d to develope and are made of top quility
materials.

Cobragirl this system will fit the older cobras too.

Rick

 

[matt lankford]

the shaft is what seems to break about 70-80 % of the time, which is what you get for 549, but when anything else breaks (cv joins outboard side) the wheel falls off and thewheel will fall off. if your still at the line that will only cost about 900 to fix, if you going 90 throught the 1/8th mile trap and the wheel falls off you could die.

 

[Ashentep]

Originally posted by matt lankford
but when anything else breaks (cv joins outboard side) the wheel falls off and thewheel will fall off.

No it won't.

You could completely remove the halfshaft and the wheel wouldn't fall off. In fact, the only thing holding the inboard side of the halfshaft into the diff is a spring loaded clip. If that clip was the only thing holding the wheel on, then Ford would be committing suicide.

You'd have to break an upright, or both the upper or lower control arm for the wheel to be able to flop around, and even then it wouldn't completely fall off unless the upright broke where the upper & where the lower control arm connects to it, or both the upper and lower control arm broke..

 

[blown03]

I just had a halfshaft replaced under warranty. I can see how that could be costly if it had to come out of my pocket.

Are these packages compatable/interchangable? Can you get the $549 package and later add the CV joints etc? Or would you have throw out the $549 package and start over with the $895?

Rick, thanks for taking the time to answer all of my questions. From everything I have heard about Amazon Racing, i am sure these are top quality products. I am also looking at your anti-wheel hop kit.

 

[Randee of the Redwoods]

Originally posted by AmazonRacing
If you just want to replace the halfshafts you can do that for $549 for both. I will be offering the entire kit as listed above which is everything for $895 for both sides. This gives the costumer two choices. Get a price for one side OEM replacement and you'll see this is extremely reasonable. We try to provide the customers with different options. These parts take an awfull amount of capital and r&d to develope and are made of top quility
materials.

Cobragirl this system will fit the older cobras too.

Rick

Ok. $895 for both sides is reasonable to me. I'd buy it especially if it proves as durable as you say. Nice piece of mind.

 

[CobraGirlSVT]

Add me to the definetly interested list. The whole kit for $895 (and halfshafts only for $549) isn't a bad price at all. Anyone who has a '99 or '01 Cobra and has shopped the GKNs and Raxles knows this.

 

[Joe Lynch]

A little clarification and some additional information. You can break either CV joint in the joint or an intermediate shaft and not have the wheel fall off. There is usually no damage to anything else when the halfshaft breaks at or between either CV joint SPIDER.

The only safety hazard is if the outboard stub shaft breaks. Fortunately, this is rare. If it breaks, the hub and wheel are free to go, since the outboard stub shaft holds the bearing and hub assembly together. As far as I know, I am the only one who has ever had that failure, and the brake caliper was the only thing holding the wheel under the car. Fortunately, this happened on the line at a drag strip. I still had to replace the knuckle ($400) because the wheel being loose bent the caliper tangs.

The warning I make is this, for the "serious" drag racers. Check the halfshaft outboard stub shafts at the hub shoulder periodically. They will start shearing before they fail. There is a procedure for this and my notes on the failure on my site below.

The outboard stub shaft never fails on a stock halfshaft. Why? Because the intermediate shaft is the weakest point, followed by the CV joints themselves. They are weaker than the outboard stub shaft and will fail first. Once those have been replaced and upgraded, the outboard stub will eventually become the weakest link. When that happens, the outboard stub failures will occur, after enough runs. The outboard stub shaft diameter is set by the hub and bearing design and cannot be made larger easily, therefore if the outboard stub shaft becomes the weak link, there are some safety concerns and it is potentially dangerous. But failures are preventable if the stub shafts are inspected periodically, as described on my site.

Amazon Racing--Congrats on getting the parts. Now do your part and copy the stuff on the site below and tell your customers to check the outboard stubs perioidically. I don't want anyone to have a failure there like I did. And, believe me, you don't either. There are good engineering reasons for the inboard items to be the weak link and for keeping them the weak link.

Also, tell your '99 model 28 spline customers that they will have to change out the differential to use the '03 halfshafts in their cars.

Good luck to all. Be careful out there.

http://www.lx.net/jlynch

Joe Lynch

 

[Joe Lynch]

Another thing. The intermediate shaft or "bar" with the boots can be installed using your CV joints by any CV joint rebuild shop or any shop equipped to work on front wheel drive halfshafts. The IRS halfshafts are built just the same as those. And they are very similar to the ones used on the 89-97 T-birds and Cougars with the IRS. And the Mark VIII Lincolns. The assembly/disassembly of similar hardware has been around for years.

The Amazon Racing pricing looks reasonable to me, by the way. And remember, occasional breakage is part of drag racing, no matter what you buy.

Joe Lynch

 

[Lo Pony]

Very very good advice Joe. Thank you for stepping in.

 

[slythetove]

Rick, any estimates as to just how strong these are?

If I don't run slicks, but maybe DRs at most will they hold 475+ RWTQ off the line?

 

[Joe Lynch]

Ashenstep--take a look at the description above. You cannot "completely remove the halfshaft and the wheel won't fall off". The outboard stub and nut hold the bearing and the hub together in the knuckle. Sure, with the shaft out the slight interference fit holds the hub there. Drive it 10 feet and it will loosen.

The 99 cars had a recall for knuckle replacement. The service techs failed to get the axle nut tight enough to pull everything back into position on many of the cars. Lots of people had wheel bearing problems, brake rotor rubs, and wobble in the rear from the bearing separating after driving the car a few miles. The nut requires torqueing to well over 200 ft-lbs to tighten everything up. Keep that in mind when you change the halfshafts.

Joe Lynch

 

[Rick@Amazon]

Thanks Joe your right on the money. I will have these kits in 28 and 31 spline. Like Joe said you must inspect the stub shafts to be on the safe side. The best way for 99 guys is to change to the 31 spline differential. I want to test these units on my car with slicks first. If everything looks good to me they will be available in a few weeks. These will give me enough time to test, mother nature in not helping here.

Rick

 

[Joe Lynch]

Rick-- I bet the testing will turn out fine. Just for the record, I never had a failure at the splines of a 99 diff with the 28 spline input shafts. But I ran on motor only with a 4.56 gear.

Any IRS car with a power adder should go to the 31 spline differential. I did replace one 28 spline halfshaft that broke at the differential stub shaft. It was in an 11 sec supercharged car. The Traction-Lok differentials themselves won't last long anyway.

Joe Lynch

 

[Ashentep]

Originally posted by Joe Lynch
Ashenstep--take a look at the description above. You cannot "completely remove the halfshaft and the wheel won't fall off". The outboard stub and nut hold the bearing and the hub together in the knuckle. Sure, with the shaft out the slight interference fit holds the hub there. Drive it 10 feet and it will loosen.

I have been schooled. I looked at the diagram I have in the Ford Service manual incorrectly. I see exactly what you're talking about now.

Guess I should keep my mouth shut when not 100% sure.

 

[Joe Lynch]

Ashenstep--No problem. My schoolin' was just a little bit harsh when I was learning how that stuff was assembled, LOL.

Joe