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The Terminator
Driveline
Halfshaft Kits are done!!
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<blockquote data-quote="Joe Lynch" data-source="post: 276623" data-attributes="member: 1070"><p>A little clarification and some additional information. You can break either CV joint in the joint or an intermediate shaft and not have the wheel fall off. There is usually no damage to anything else when the halfshaft breaks at or between either CV joint SPIDER. </p><p></p><p>The only safety hazard is if the outboard stub shaft breaks. Fortunately, this is rare. If it breaks, the hub and wheel are free to go, since the outboard stub shaft holds the bearing and hub assembly together. As far as I know, I am the only one who has ever had that failure, and the brake caliper was the only thing holding the wheel under the car. Fortunately, this happened on the line at a drag strip. I still had to replace the knuckle ($400) because the wheel being loose bent the caliper tangs. </p><p></p><p>The warning I make is this, for the "serious" drag racers. Check the halfshaft outboard stub shafts at the hub shoulder periodically. They will start shearing before they fail. There is a procedure for this and my notes on the failure on my site below. </p><p></p><p>The outboard stub shaft never fails on a stock halfshaft. Why? Because the intermediate shaft is the weakest point, followed by the CV joints themselves. They are weaker than the outboard stub shaft and will fail first. Once those have been replaced and upgraded, the outboard stub will eventually become the weakest link. When that happens, the outboard stub failures will occur, after enough runs. The outboard stub shaft diameter is set by the hub and bearing design and cannot be made larger easily, therefore if the outboard stub shaft becomes the weak link, there are some safety concerns and it is potentially dangerous. But failures are preventable if the stub shafts are inspected periodically, as described on my site.</p><p></p><p>Amazon Racing--Congrats on getting the parts. Now do your part and copy the stuff on the site below and tell your customers to check the outboard stubs perioidically. I don't want anyone to have a failure there like I did. And, believe me, you don't either. There are good engineering reasons for the inboard items to be the weak link and for keeping them the weak link. </p><p></p><p>Also, tell your '99 model 28 spline customers that they will have to change out the differential to use the '03 halfshafts in their cars. </p><p></p><p>Good luck to all. Be careful out there. </p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.lx.net/jlynch" target="_blank">http://www.lx.net/jlynch</a></p><p></p><p>Joe Lynch</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Joe Lynch, post: 276623, member: 1070"] A little clarification and some additional information. You can break either CV joint in the joint or an intermediate shaft and not have the wheel fall off. There is usually no damage to anything else when the halfshaft breaks at or between either CV joint SPIDER. The only safety hazard is if the outboard stub shaft breaks. Fortunately, this is rare. If it breaks, the hub and wheel are free to go, since the outboard stub shaft holds the bearing and hub assembly together. As far as I know, I am the only one who has ever had that failure, and the brake caliper was the only thing holding the wheel under the car. Fortunately, this happened on the line at a drag strip. I still had to replace the knuckle ($400) because the wheel being loose bent the caliper tangs. The warning I make is this, for the "serious" drag racers. Check the halfshaft outboard stub shafts at the hub shoulder periodically. They will start shearing before they fail. There is a procedure for this and my notes on the failure on my site below. The outboard stub shaft never fails on a stock halfshaft. Why? Because the intermediate shaft is the weakest point, followed by the CV joints themselves. They are weaker than the outboard stub shaft and will fail first. Once those have been replaced and upgraded, the outboard stub will eventually become the weakest link. When that happens, the outboard stub failures will occur, after enough runs. The outboard stub shaft diameter is set by the hub and bearing design and cannot be made larger easily, therefore if the outboard stub shaft becomes the weak link, there are some safety concerns and it is potentially dangerous. But failures are preventable if the stub shafts are inspected periodically, as described on my site. Amazon Racing--Congrats on getting the parts. Now do your part and copy the stuff on the site below and tell your customers to check the outboard stubs perioidically. I don't want anyone to have a failure there like I did. And, believe me, you don't either. There are good engineering reasons for the inboard items to be the weak link and for keeping them the weak link. Also, tell your '99 model 28 spline customers that they will have to change out the differential to use the '03 halfshafts in their cars. Good luck to all. Be careful out there. [url]http://www.lx.net/jlynch[/url] Joe Lynch [/QUOTE]
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