head bolts

[flashlight]

Im changing the heads on my L. I know you have to replace the bolts on some stuff everytime you take them out. Just not sure about a L. Anybody know? And that little shim type gasket between the blower and the intercooler and between the intercooler and the lower intake. Do they have to be changed to?

 

[yadisisp6]

I would get some ARP head studs if I were you. Also, I think you can reuse those two gaskets since they are metal.

 

[Fade 2 Black]

Replace head bolts and head gaskets, re-use everything else.

 

[flashlight]

Thanks, what I needed to know.:rockon:

 

[Fade 2 Black]

If you use head studs it's adviseable to recheck the torque on them after 500 miles or so. :beer:

 

[flashlight]

Thanks Fade. Im doing this with the motor in the truck. So studs are a no can do. The motor is about stock anyway.

 

[silvblt]

I think all Fords use TTY (Torque to yield) head bolts. They MUST be changed everytime they are removed. Plus setting the new ones in MUST be followed in order and if I remember correctly must be done in three different increments of torque when installing. I slapped new stage 3 heads on my Vortech s/c F-150 last year and when I worked on my SHO. Haven't had to remove the ones from the L because it looks like JLP already did that for me. :banana: They may be a bit pricey, but I can't stand doing stuff twice. Good luck. Mick.....

 

[flashlight]

Does anybody offer replacements that are not tty? I dont really like studs.

 

[silvblt]

Does anybody offer replacements that are not tty? I dont really like studs.

Not that I know of. Pretty sure someone may produce them, but I've never had to look elsewhere for them. When I bought mine, they were in a set with the gaskets and other parts needed to do the head swap. Perhaps someone else will chime in and give some more input. Mick....

 

[flashlight]

I have seen a kit in summit called a cylinder head changing kit that comes with head bolts, but its a Ford Racing part. So I would think they are the same as stock.

 

[Fade 2 Black]

Thanks Fade. Im doing this with the motor in the truck. So studs are a no can do. The motor is about stock anyway.

I've got studs and they can be removed/installed with the engine in the truck. It's not easy but it can be done. If using studs it's recommend to rechecking/re-torquing them after a few hundred miles, PITA but better safe than sorry. :beer:

 

[xonecrazyx]

the head bolts are changed everytime on all ford modular motors . bolts arent all that expensive . a hint that helps . on rs gasket last 2 bolts hold them in with rubber bands . while installing head .wont go in other wise

 

[flashlight]

Id go with the studs, but they are just to mutch. I can get that cylinder head
changing kit for 115 out of summit. It comes with the head bolts, head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, and the dipstick. Not sure why it comes with a dipstick. The studs are 210 just for the studs. I know the studs are better, but I just dont think I need them for my L. It has a 4lbs lower, cold air intake and a tune. Thats it. Id rather have some bolts that are not torque to yield so I can reuse them if I ever take the heads back off. But if nobody makes them Ill just use the regular ones. My chevelle only has ARP bolts and it runs 6.77 on motor. Has been a 6.31 with a 150 shot. Never had a problem with it. Been like that for years. Just dont like studs. Thanks for all of the input. You guys have been great.:rockon:

 

[Lord Tauk]

$210 for ARP head studs isn't a bad price.

If you aren't planning on pulling the heads off again, why not just go with the factory TTY head bolts unless they're super expensive? Regular head bolts and studs always have the possibility of being stretched after taken out of a used application, probably rare though.

 

[flashlight]

$210 for ARP head studs isn't a bad price.

If you aren't planning on pulling the heads off again, why not just go with the factory TTY head bolts unless they're super expensive? Regular head bolts and studs always have the possibility of being stretched after taken out of a used application, probably rare though.

$210 for 20 studs and nuts is a lot. You can get them for a SBC for $132 and thats 32 studs and nuts. I dont really want the TTY's because of all the crap you have to go through to bolt them down.

 

[Lord Tauk]

$210 for 20 studs and nuts is a lot. You can get them for a SBC for $132 and thats 32 studs and nuts. I dont really want the TTY's because of all the crap you have to go through to bolt them down.

Yeah, it's somewhat expensive but I've seen headstuds costs a ton more. Whoever makes the H11's for the Powerstrokes, I dont think you can get them for less than $600, they average around $750. ARPs for them costs an easy $400. There's a few more studs and nuts but come on.. now that is nuts.

 

[flashlight]

Yeah, it's somewhat expensive but I've seen headstuds costs a ton more. Whoever makes the H11's for the Powerstrokes, I dont think you can get them for less than $600, they average around $750. ARPs for them costs an easy $400. There's a few more studs and nuts but come on.. now that is nuts.

Note to self. Powerstroke BAD.