Headers

[Chancey]

Im thinking about installing a set of Stainless Works headers on my ride. I have a couple of questions I need advice on. How hard are they to install on the 13 GT500? I put a set of American Racing Headers on my last 2017 mustang GT, and they were pretty tough on that one! And has anybody put a set of the Stainless Works headers on their own car? And finally what is the best headers for our car? Im thinking about the Stainless Works set because I love the sound. Opinions? Thanks guys...

 

[PhoenixM3]

I went with American Racing Headers, but choice is yours. I’d recommend dropping the K member as it makes the bolts a lot more accessible. Also, don’t get O2 sensor extensions as it will likely throw a code. It can be done on four jackstands, but a lift of course would be better. Good luck.

 

[Chancey]

I went with American Racing Headers, but choice is yours. I’d recommend dropping the K member as it makes the bolts a lot more accessible. Also, don’t get O2 sensor extensions as it will likely throw a code. It can be done on four jackstands, but a lift of course would be better. Good luck.

Thanks man. Did you pick up any noticeable power from the American racing headers?

 

[boduke0220]

I would Definitely recommend doing it on a lift. 5.8 makes it tight. I had my buddy install my Kook 1 7/8 for me. They sound perfect with the stock mufflers.

 

[dennisdiecast]

Got Stainless Works on mine and they sound great! The install was a lot easier on the passenger side compared to the driver side. Just like others have said, do not use the O2 extension, and also try using as many of the original studs as you can.

 

[Chancey]

Got Stainless Works on mine and they sound great! The install was a lot easier on the passenger side compared to the driver side. Just like others have said, do not use the O2 extension, and also try using as many of the original studs as you can.

Thanks man.

 

[Chancey]

I would Definitely recommend doing it on a lift. 5.8 makes it tight. I had my buddy install my Kook 1 7/8 for me. They sound perfect with the stock mufflers.

Thanks!

 

[Robot_trainer]

I went through the pain of doing it myself...sort of. I went Kooks 1-3/4 since I'm not racing and dont plan on doing any sort of larger blower/cams/pulley changes and it has clearance to clear the steering shaft without denting a pipe or going aftermarket. I also went green cat/H-pipe. With the K-member in place, Everything comes out relatively easy, however there is absolutely no room for anything.

It will take you 15 minutes to strategize which type of wrench/extension/shallow/deep/swivel or any combination of the mentioned to use on any particular aspect of the job. You will have very little room to swing a wrench and your hand will get tired. The passenger header goes in OK. The drivers side is a nightmare. I gave up and had someone install it that has done several. He does it without pulling the K-member but he wouldn't divulge his secret.

If you are planning on pulling the K member, your best bet is get yourself a small motorcycle jack. Its the safest way to do it. Buy new studs and nuts. They are cheap! You will have to cut the passenger side front lower stud and one other stud in the middle on the drivers side to clear the pipe. Also, do yourself a favour and get a Lokar flexible dip stick. The stock one is a PITA to get back in. There is no clear visual on where the hole is since its blocked by the filter housing and headers. Rig something up to hold the steering wheel in place when you disconnect the steering shaft. If it spins around you will smoke the clockspring (all of the wiring that runs the steering wheel controls). I would recommend getting the headers ceramic coated. It keeps the heat down and stops them from turning blue/yellow and looking like crap.

What ever you do, do not take the EGR pipe out completely. I made that mistake. I was hoping to get more room behind the engine to work with. It took hours to get it back in and ruined the insulation wrap (I had to re-wrap it). You will need a 1" wrench or adjustable to work with this. Disconnect it at the manifold end, and just loosen it at the EGR end. You may need to tweek the EGR tube or the tube on the header to get it to line up.

Everyone mentions not using the extensions but no one tells you what do. I found that information almost impossible to find. Here's what you do. Unplug all of the sensors from the harness. The worse one will be the front passenger side as its behind the engine above the bell housing. You will need a long skinny screw driver and pair of long needle nose. Grab the back of the pig tail with the plier and push on the release with the screwdriver. You then have to unclip the harness from the bell housing and pull all of the clips along both sides of the transmission. What you are going to do is pull the whole harness over the bell housing and to the passenger side of the transmissions. Plug the passenger side sensors back in, and bring the driver side sensor connectors under the transmission and cable tie them to the transmission.

If you already have a tune, chances are you wont need to do anything unless you plan on not running the rear sensors (no cats). If this is the case, those sensors need to be turned off or it will light up the bad light. Headers will lean it out somewhat at WOT. If you plan on racing it will be in your best interest to dyno tune it and bump the ratio a bit. For day to day driving the Closed Loop system will take care of everything else. Some run into trouble because the O2s are further back and sometimes dont heat up fast enough in which case the transport delay in the tune will need to be changed (I haven't had a problem with that myself). The other problem you might see is if you use high flow cats. These don't work as efficiently as the stock ones or the green cats. It might trip a converter efficiency fault in which case you by the vibrant restrictors (J shaped tubes you screw into the O2 port and then screw the O2 into the tubes) or, as mentioned have the tuner turn off the rear O2 sensors (you will no longer have cat protection)

My experience with the headers so far is that at idle it has a little more rumble (Corsa Sport mufflers). Once you get on it or drive at around 2500rpm you can definitely hear it, but its a nice tone, not ignorant. The throttle response is alot better and my gas mileage got better. Good luck to you!

 

[Chancey]

I went through the pain of doing it myself...sort of. I went Kooks 1-3/4 since I'm not racing and dont plan on doing any sort of larger blower/cams/pulley changes and it has clearance to clear the steering shaft without denting a pipe or going aftermarket. I also went green cat/H-pipe. With the K-member in place, Everything comes out relatively easy, however there is absolutely no room for anything.

It will take you 15 minutes to strategize which type of wrench/extension/shallow/deep/swivel or any combination of the mentioned to use on any particular aspect of the job. You will have very little room to swing a wrench and your hand will get tired. The passenger header goes in OK. The drivers side is a nightmare. I gave up and had someone install it that has done several. He does it without pulling the K-member but he wouldn't divulge his secret.

If you are planning on pulling the K member, your best bet is get yourself a small motorcycle jack. Its the safest way to do it. Buy new studs and nuts. They are cheap! You will have to cut the passenger side front lower stud and one other stud in the middle on the drivers side to clear the pipe. Also, do yourself a favour and get a Lokar flexible dip stick. The stock one is a PITA to get back in. There is no clear visual on where the hole is since its blocked by the filter housing and headers. Rig something up to hold the steering wheel in place when you disconnect the steering shaft. If it spins around you will smoke the clockspring (all of the wiring that runs the steering wheel controls). I would recommend getting the headers ceramic coated. It keeps the heat down and stops them from turning blue/yellow and looking like crap.

What ever you do, do not take the EGR pipe out completely. I made that mistake. I was hoping to get more room behind the engine to work with. It took hours to get it back in and ruined the insulation wrap (I had to re-wrap it). You will need a 1" wrench or adjustable to work with this. Disconnect it at the manifold end, and just loosen it at the EGR end. You may need to tweek the EGR tube or the tube on the header to get it to line up.

Everyone mentions not using the extensions but no one tells you what do. I found that information almost impossible to find. Here's what you do. Unplug all of the sensors from the harness. The worse one will be the front passenger side as its behind the engine above the bell housing. You will need a long skinny screw driver and pair of long needle nose. Grab the back of the pig tail with the plier and push on the release with the screwdriver. You then have to unclip the harness from the bell housing and pull all of the clips along both sides of the transmission. What you are going to do is pull the whole harness over the bell housing and to the passenger side of the transmissions. Plug the passenger side sensors back in, and bring the driver side sensor connectors under the transmission and cable tie them to the transmission.

If you already have a tune, chances are you wont need to do anything unless you plan on not running the rear sensors (no cats). If this is the case, those sensors need to be turned off or it will light up the bad light. Headers will lean it out somewhat at WOT. If you plan on racing it will be in your best interest to dyno tune it and bump the ratio a bit. For day to day driving the Closed Loop system will take care of everything else. Some run into trouble because the O2s are further back and sometimes dont heat up fast enough in which case the transport delay in the tune will need to be changed (I haven't had a problem with that myself). The other problem you might see is if you use high flow cats. These don't work as efficiently as the stock ones or the green cats. It might trip a converter efficiency fault in which case you by the vibrant restrictors (J shaped tubes you screw into the O2 port and then screw the O2 into the tubes) or, as mentioned have the tuner turn off the rear O2 sensors (you will no longer have cat protection)

My experience with the headers so far is that at idle it has a little more rumble (Corsa Sport mufflers). Once you get on it or drive at around 2500rpm you can definitely hear it, but its a nice tone, not ignorant. The throttle response is alot better and my gas mileage got better. Good luck to you!

Great explanation Robot_trainer! Just what I was looking for... I really appreciate you taking the time to explain the install in detail, and the performance results after the fact.

 

[Robot_trainer]

Great explanation Robot_trainer! Just what I was looking for... I really appreciate you taking the time to explain the install in detail, and the performance results after the fact.

I hate to see others suffer.

 

[Robot_trainer]

I should mention, either high temp silicone and re-use the existing header gaskets (new ones are a million dollars) or buy Cometics (I bought new Cometics. I did not silicone the new ones. Others will say you should, but I have no leaks).