Heads and Cam Questions

[Orion1123]

I would like to add about 100+ hp this winter to my mostly stock Cobra (mods in sig) Would it be possible to get that type of increase with the following mods:

1. Aftermarket heads..possibly Trick Flow TW
2. Aftermarket cam ... whatever matches my heads
3. Longtube headers
4. o/r h-pipe
5. Cold air intake

with maintaining the stock bottom end and stock upper and lower intake.

I mainly drive on the street with little track time. I would like to keep the powerband in the range of 2500 - 5500 RPM's. Which heads and cam do you guys think would work the best for this setup. Thanks in advance:beer:

 

[Rob_03Mach]

I would like to add about 100+ hp this winter to my mostly stock Cobra (mods in sig) Would it be possible to get that type of increase with the following mods:

1. Aftermarket heads..possibly Trick Flow TW
2. Aftermarket cam ... whatever matches my heads
3. Longtube headers
4. o/r h-pipe
5. Cold air intake

with maintaining the stock bottom end and stock upper and lower intake.

I mainly drive on the street with little track time. I would like to keep the powerband in the range of 2500 - 5500 RPM's. Which heads and cam do you guys think would work the best for this setup. Thanks in advance:beer:

Yes, it's very possible. This link should give you an idea as to the power your are trying to achieve.

FORDMUSCLE webmagazine: Installing and Dyno Testing Small Block Ford AFR Heads

Rob

 

[cobra186]

With those mods listed you will probably gain around 80rwhp. The stock cobra intake will be a bottle neck with the TFS or AFR Heads.

 

[red95gts]

You might sit down and crunch the numbers on a supercharger setup. It would likely make the power you are looking for without having to crack open the engine.

The new Vortech V-3 setup can be had for about $1900 new. Add in some injectors, MAF, fuel pump, and a tune and you're in business.

 

[Orion1123]

You might sit down and crunch the numbers on a supercharger setup. It would likely make the power you are looking for without having to crack open the engine.

The new Vortech V-3 setup can be had for about $1900 new. Add in some injectors, MAF, fuel pump, and a tune and you're in business.

That's the 5-6psi kit right (w/ no intercooler)? How much of a hp gain can you expect with that amount of boost?

 

[red95gts]

According to Vortech's site, you'll see an extra 50HP on a stock 5.0L with the 5-6 psi kit. But, with the addition of the fuel pump, injectors, MAF, and tune, I would hesitate to throw a different pulley on it to make more boost. Keep in mind their numbers also assume it's a bone stock car with their kit. If you have any additional mods (exhaust, etc) it would result is a greater power increase.

We've all seen 93 Cobras that make 450-500rwhp with a stock motor and a Vortech with 12-16psi. It can certainly be done, but the power and the reliability lie in the tune.

 

[Kevins89notch]

Yup, S-Trim is the way to go! I don't think I will EVER own a 5.0 without one(unless like my 93, its all stock, and I'm keeping it that way). They make great power, are easy to work on, plus the sound at idle...ah, music to my ears!!!!

 

[Orion1123]

With the 5-6 psi kit would these upgrades cover it:

1. 42 lb injectors
2. 80mm Pro M MAF
3. 255 fuel pump
4. dyno tune (and lose the FMU)

or would I need some kind of a MSD box or anything else?

 

[red95gts]

That should be more then enough fuel for the 5-6psi setup and should give you the flexibility to add more boost in the future. I do seem to remember there being multiple models of 255lph pumps and some being more desireable than others, but I forget the details.

An MSD would be a good upgrade as well, although the same can be said for a N/A combo as well.

FWIW, this is basically what I plan for mine as well. The 235HP it came with stock has been fun, but let's face it - this thing is slow. Time for a change!

 

[Red Turtle]

You might sit down and crunch the numbers on a supercharger setup. It would likely make the power you are looking for without having to crack open the engine.

The new Vortech V-3 setup can be had for about $1900 new. Add in some injectors, MAF, fuel pump, and a tune and you're in business.

That would be the way I would go.

That's the 5-6psi kit right (w/ no intercooler)? How much of a hp gain can you expect with that amount of boost?

LOL, we didn't have inner/aftercoolers back in the early 90's and the cars ran great then.

Yup, S-Trim is the way to go! I don't think I will EVER own a 5.0 without one(unless like my 93, its all stock, and I'm keeping it that way). They make great power, are easy to work on, plus the sound at idle...ah, music to my ears!!!!

What he said.

With the 5-6 psi kit would these upgrades cover it:

1. 42 lb injectors
2. 80mm Pro M MAF
3. 255 fuel pump
4. dyno tune (and lose the FMU)

or would I need some kind of a MSD box or anything else?

With the 5-6psi kit, you would get by with your 24lb injectors. I would get the MSD 6BTM if they still make that. It retards the timing as the boost increases, so this way you don't have to set the timing in the dirt. :shrug: Maybe tuning abilities have negated this, but that is what we did way back when...

Your original plan would probably benefit from a different intake. I didn't want to go that route and had my stock intake Extrude Honed and Port Matched my lower.

 

[Kevins89notch]

My 89 notch was 100% stock when I got it. With headers, h-pipe, flows, 36lb injectors(matching Pro-M), crane ignition, and a S-Trim, I went 11.9 at 116, and thats without ever having it tuned.

 

[mgerman93]

"I would like to add about 100+ hp this winter to my mostly stock Cobra (mods in sig) Would it be possible to get that type of increase with the following mods:

1. Aftermarket heads..possibly Trick Flow TW
2. Aftermarket cam ... whatever matches my heads
3. Longtube headers
4. o/r h-pipe
5. Cold air intake

with maintaining the stock bottom end and stock upper and lower intake."

It's very easy to add 100+ rwhp naturally aspirated with a stock shortblock and the factory cobra intake. It will run on pump fuel and have excellent driveability.

 

[Orion1123]

With the 5-6psi kit, you would get by with your 24lb injectors.

Can't you just adjust for the larger injector with a tune or can the injectors just be too big for that low amount of boost?

My 89 notch was 100% stock when I got it. With headers, h-pipe, flows, 36lb injectors(matching Pro-M), crane ignition, and a S-Trim, I went 11.9 at 116, and thats without ever having it tuned.

How much boost were you running? Slicks?

 

[Kevins89notch]

CHow much boost were you running? Slicks?

Oh yeah, and some 26x10.5 M/T ET Drags. :thumbsup:

The S-Trim was stock pullied, which was 7-8psi. This was on a cool 30 degree day. I had 100% stock suspension, and still managed a 1.68 60' leaving the line like I stole it. :rockon:

 

[Red Turtle]

Can't you just adjust for the larger injector with a tune or can the injectors just be too big for that low amount of boost?




How much boost were you running? Slicks?

I was thinking mainly of a cost issue. If you are not going to run more than the 5-6psi then you will be fine with the 24lb inj. and a BAP. But yes, you are correct that 42lb injectors are probably too much for the 5-6psi.

 

[Red Turtle]

My 89 notch was 100% stock when I got it. With headers, h-pipe, flows, 36lb injectors(matching Pro-M), crane ignition, and a S-Trim, I went 11.9 at 116, and thats without ever having it tuned.

Yep, those sound like the type of numbers that you would see at the track week after week. Going back to the early/mid 90's tuning was listening for pinging under boost and retarding the timing....

 

[Orion1123]

I was thinking mainly of a cost issue. If you are not going to run more than the 5-6psi then you will be fine with the 24lb inj. and a BAP. But yes, you are correct that 42lb injectors are probably too much for the 5-6psi.

I can get the 42 lb injectors and the 80 mm MAF for a really good price. That is why I would like to know if I could use them. I also was thinking about the option of getting a different pully to run 7-8 psi.

 

[Red Turtle]

If you can buy the parts for a good price, than go for it. I just thought it was overkill for 5-6psi, but if you are going to run 7-8(which will then turn into 10psi) go for it.

 

[JoeRacer]

If you aren't tuning it yourself (PMS, FAST, etc) with a wideband, then I would speak with whatever tuner you are going to go with before buying a bunch of parts. You will want to purchase parts that your tuner is familiar and comfortable tuning with. The 42# injectors shouldn't be an issue but needs a good dyno tune (and maybe a few tweaks after a little street driving), and a good tune will be better than BTM. a BTM setup with boost dependent FPR is okay if you don't have a dyno tuner available and don't want to invest the $ into a wideband/handheld (or standalone) setup. If you have a dyno tuner available then you should go with that as retuning the ECU with a good matched set of MAF + 42# inj (PMAS is my preference, C&L isn't the best for a lot of boost applications, once again speak with your tuner on his recommendations and what he wants to tune). The reprogrammed ECU will adjust the timing but be a lot more accurate than a BTM, and adjusting fuel tables is a lot more accurate for fuel control vs. using a boost dependent FPR.

In the end you will be very happy with the results but don't be discouraged if it takes a little tweaking to get the bugs out of it . Just take it slowly and don't push it until you are sure you have a good tune.

 

[Red Turtle]

If you aren't tuning it yourself (PMS, FAST, etc) with a wideband, then I would speak with whatever tuner you are going to go with before buying a bunch of parts. You will want to purchase parts that your tuner is familiar and comfortable tuning with. The 42# injectors shouldn't be an issue but needs a good dyno tune (and maybe a few tweaks after a little street driving), and a good tune will be better than BTM. a BTM setup with boost dependent FPR is okay if you don't have a dyno tuner available and don't want to invest the $ into a wideband/handheld (or standalone) setup. If you have a dyno tuner available then you should go with that as retuning the ECU with a good matched set of MAF + 42# inj (PMAS is my preference, C&L isn't the best for a lot of boost applications, once again speak with your tuner on his recommendations and what he wants to tune). The reprogrammed ECU will adjust the timing but be a lot more accurate than a BTM, and adjusting fuel tables is a lot more accurate for fuel control vs. using a boost dependent FPR.

In the end you will be very happy with the results but don't be discouraged if it takes a little tweaking to get the bugs out of it . Just take it slowly and don't push it until you are sure you have a good tune.

Sounds like you have it dialed in!!

Like I have said before, all of my experience was prior to tuning being available for the A9L. Back then you either set your base timing at 2*-5* or ran a 6BTM and had more pep on the bottom with safety on the top.