Help! Few issues

[Black01Vert]

Ok so I have a mach that I'm doing an eaton swap on,

I had the timing cover off and I decided to remove the water pump, as I pulled it off a ton of coolant poured out and most of it made it's way inside the engine and straight down into the oil pan. What is the best way to ensure I get all of it out? Is this a big issue? Will just the oil drain plug get all of it out?

On the crank I used a jaw puller to remove the harmonic balancer and I managed to mess up with first 2-3 threads as I was being careless and didn't see the pullers threaded "shaft" digging in the hole.. What can I do to clean up these first few threads?

Thanks for all the help!

 

[DannyBoy08]

I hope that you're planning to build the lower motor to handle the additional pressure from a supercharger. Sure both motors are 4 valve...but without the Cobra Manley Rods and the forged Crank, you may as well put this block back together with wingnuts to make your next (and soon) rebuild easier. If you read about the development of the cobra (Iron Fist Lead Foot), you'll find the standard stock components had VERY short dyno lives.

If it were me, and I dropped coolant in the pan, I'd drain the oil and maybe flush it with an extra quart of oil once it is drained. A little water/coolant would steam off of an engine with heat. I'd be more worried about displacement of the oil. In other words, oil and water don't like each other, as you likely know. If droplets of water make their way to engine components , the oil will not be lubricating that part.

As far as thread damage, a tap and die set would be the most prudent way to repair damaged threads.

Best of luck with your project.

 

[Mystic03]

I hope that you're planning to build the lower motor to handle the additional pressure from a supercharger. Sure both motors are 4 valve...but without the Cobra Manley Rods and the forged Crank, you may as well put this block back together with wingnuts to make your next (and soon) rebuild easier. If you read about the development of the cobra (Iron Fist Lead Foot), you'll find the standard stock components had VERY short dyno lives.

If it were me, and I dropped coolant in the pan, I'd drain the oil and maybe flush it with an extra quart of oil once it is drained. A little water/coolant would steam off of an engine with heat. I'd be more worried about displacement of the oil. In other words, oil and water don't like each other, as you likely know. If droplets of water make their way to engine components , the oil will not be lubricating that part.

As far as thread damage, a tap and die set would be the most prudent way to repair damaged threads.

Best of luck with your project.

i hope you're not refering to the terminator motors "having short dyno" lives as far as the mach1 internals i agree with you with the "ticking time bomb" OP if you run the stock 3.65 you should be ok with the life of the motor but if you're into that much of a build i would get the motor built!

 

[DannyBoy08]

I was referring to the development of the engine. From what is said in the book, the standard Ford internal components did not handle the supercharger well. The final engine required several upgrades over the standard ford rods and cranks, so that they could handle the boost pressure. The final terminator engine is well built and was a phenomenal success on the dyno and on the track. The mods and HP upgrades that a stock cobra motor can handle is proof of this.

If someone goes with a 4valve motor that is from a naturally aspirated cobra or Mach 1, I feel that they will eventually see the same failures that SVT experienced before they upgraded the internals. Here is another reference discussing the difference between a Cobra and other ford 4valve engines. http://proweldperformanceparts.com/id31.html

I think we're saying the same thing...if you want an engine to last, you can't just bolt an Eaton on a stock 4 valve naturally aspirated motor such as a Mach1.

 

[Black01Vert]

Thanks for the help!

And yes I know I'm on borrowed time with the mach1 motor.. They come with a forged crank, and the "safe" hp is around 450hp with the higher cr and rods/pistons. I plan on running just 8lbs and building up the motor next winter.