help me please
- Thread starter 1989Gt.
- Start date
no shit- what are you saying? does something look wrong with your new crank?
Okay so here's the deal put together. Mmr 900 block rotating assembly put it in my car week later I saw low oil pressure stoped running it took it back apart bearings are done have to take some off the crank too. Cast crank I mean not even 50 god Damn miles the guy that tore the shoet block apart said he thi.ks the holes were not chamfered correctly.
Its called "chamfer" and he's referring to the crank journals, specifically the oil holes, and i always do, just dont go crazy, a small chamfer is good, but you should re-polish if you do, any good new crank should already have that done.
highly doubt that, MMR makes great shit and has a great reputation, the bearings will be the tell tale sign, and sounds like there was some contaminants in your oil, which in turn got pumped through your crank journals, onto your bearings, wearing them along with the journals creating a greater bearing clearance, resulting in lower oil pressure, not good dude, engine building is definitly a white glove operation.
That's what I thought anyways well the damage is done now had to get the crank cut. Oh more bad news I had a machine shop do all the work to my block and now another one is tellkng me they messrd up the machine work and that's a contributing factor if not biggest to why my bearings got chewed
so the shortblock was disassembled used or bought new from MMR? either way, depending on damage- remachine and replace bearings. are your cylinders scored too? what oil pump are you using?
makes no sense that your oil galleys got plugged and now your block is messed up. can you take some pics? what oil pump are you using? why did you take your block to another machinist than the one who did the original work?
Ok im going to put this into what he told me. (guy repairing my motor has been doing just modular motors for 10 years) initially he said that the crank didnt look l like it was chamfered correctly as if debris or something wasnt cleaned right. I had a new crank from mmr which i thought id lean and install, so then he sent the block to get checked by a well known machinist in my area. They said my first and rear mains are out of round .005 which is alot am i correct? My engine mechanic guy said that is why my bearings got ate up he thinks. Also why when it was warm would i lose oil pressure cause it would expand, long story short i need to know if i can have the block repaired he said he didnt think it could be without my rear main leaking somehow (i think this is what he said) Oh and btw the first machine shop i went too that did my bore and hone said they never checked for a line hone which pisses me off cause they told me the block was good and straight. Im sorry if this seems long but ive only had my phone for awhile now and im bumming someones computer!! thanks ahead of time for the help
sounds like when the motor was built - a bearing clearance check was not performed. not all bearings are created equally. so let me get this right: you have a block that needs a hone, a crank that need polishing and balancing. and you need parts wise- a new rear main seal (not plate, but just the seal), and bearings that are appropriate for your crank?
A little advice.
1. These sound like questions you should be asking your machinist. The advice you get on a message board can be sketchy. I'm sure a large portion of the members haven't even witnessed a line bore machine in action, let alone know if 5 thousandths will work or not.
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2. Going from machine shop to machine shop is not a good way to go, If you have (had) 50 miles on the new motor, then the shop who did the original work "Should" stand behind their work.
I'm assuming that there is a reason on why you took it to a different shop?
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