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Mustang Forums
2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Help with verifying correct suspension setup
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<blockquote data-quote="D1984" data-source="post: 16122200" data-attributes="member: 170122"><p>Toe is something that can be knocked out of whack by large potholes, curbs etc just like anything else in your alignment. However mine has never changed much even though we don't have the best roads around here. Toe is the angle of your tires from side to side. Think of it as looking down on the car, toe out means a V angle where the tires are angled away from each other at the front. Toe in is where they are angled in to each other at the front. Some toe in is usually good and will give your car more stability in a straight line, but less steering response. I used to have a fair amount of toe out and my steering response was insanely fast compared to factory spec, however it ate up my tires so fast and tramlined so much where it wasn't even worth it since I don't track the car (DD and canyons). I have it as close to 0 as possible now and the steering is still awesome. It was a lot slower and more vague when I first zeroed it out, but after getting my Steeda competition control arms and extended ball joints the steering is almost as quick as my old aggressive toe out, and way more precise with almost 0 tramlining.</p><p></p><p>As for camber bolts, I don't use them. I wouldn't recommend them due to being a failure point on some cars</p><p></p><p>BTW I am on H&R Super Sports which lower the car 1.7" in the front and 2.4" in the back and it handles amazing with my other suspension components and alignment. I hang with 911s on Skyline Blvd. on a regular basis (very windy road south of SF with low speed and high speed corners)</p><p></p><p>For what's it's worth, besides the H&R Super Sports and Steeda control arms I have Koni orange non adjustables, BMR rear lower control arms, Whiteline rear lower control arm relocation brackets, and a J&M adjustable panhard bar. Factory sway bars, no strut tower bar.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="D1984, post: 16122200, member: 170122"] Toe is something that can be knocked out of whack by large potholes, curbs etc just like anything else in your alignment. However mine has never changed much even though we don't have the best roads around here. Toe is the angle of your tires from side to side. Think of it as looking down on the car, toe out means a V angle where the tires are angled away from each other at the front. Toe in is where they are angled in to each other at the front. Some toe in is usually good and will give your car more stability in a straight line, but less steering response. I used to have a fair amount of toe out and my steering response was insanely fast compared to factory spec, however it ate up my tires so fast and tramlined so much where it wasn't even worth it since I don't track the car (DD and canyons). I have it as close to 0 as possible now and the steering is still awesome. It was a lot slower and more vague when I first zeroed it out, but after getting my Steeda competition control arms and extended ball joints the steering is almost as quick as my old aggressive toe out, and way more precise with almost 0 tramlining. As for camber bolts, I don't use them. I wouldn't recommend them due to being a failure point on some cars BTW I am on H&R Super Sports which lower the car 1.7" in the front and 2.4" in the back and it handles amazing with my other suspension components and alignment. I hang with 911s on Skyline Blvd. on a regular basis (very windy road south of SF with low speed and high speed corners) For what's it's worth, besides the H&R Super Sports and Steeda control arms I have Koni orange non adjustables, BMR rear lower control arms, Whiteline rear lower control arm relocation brackets, and a J&M adjustable panhard bar. Factory sway bars, no strut tower bar. [/QUOTE]
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Driveline/Suspension
Help with verifying correct suspension setup
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