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FordGT08

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Hi,

So I'm having an issue after returning my car back to stock (including tune) with the exception of 3.73 gears.

What was taken off and returned to stock:

Supercharger
Full exhaust including LT Headers
10% lower
JLT cai
Throttle body
Heat exchanger
Tune
BAP
Injectors

One thing to take into account is the stock supercharger I put on was from a 2011 gt500 and the throttle body is from my 07. The other, 3.73 gears are still on it.

I took the car to Ford to have it reprogrammed thinking it might have been that but it did not do anything. The car idles higher than normal. When I explained my supercharger was from a 2011 gt500 ford told me they wouldn't diagnose the issue because of that.

I can literally put the car in gear and the rpms are high enough to pull the vehicle and it doesn't stop. If I'm driving at high speed and put it into neutral the car will idle around 1800-2000 rpms and stay there.

A question also is it acting like this because the supercharger is off a 2011?

I've included a pic below of the code being thrown.
 

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Imatk

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What supercharger did you have on before you removed it and what tune?

You should have been able to simply program your vehicle to "Return to Stock" once you removed your other supercharger.

I'm not sure but I BELIEVE the 2011 blower is the same as your other one aside from the paint.

I would speak to whoever tuned your vehicle when you bought the aftermarket blower and get a stock tune back from them. There's no telling what the Ford techs did to your ecu.

If you return the vehicle back to stock from the aftermarket tune and you're still idling high I would suspect you have a vacuum leak somewhere... too much air getting into the system.
 

spitin venom

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Hmmm....

From what I understand, the superchargers are the same except the colors. The early models are black and the later models are gray. The supercharger should not be the cause unless it is damaged.

These are in no particular order but I would...

- Look for vacuum leak.
- do idle relearn
- did you transfer over the dowels and rubber gasket from the supercharger and throttle body
- make sure 02 sensors are tight and plugged in
- Make sure everything is plugged back in. I had a clip break on my TB that would cause the connection to go in and out. I got a new connector and repinned it and it fixed the problem.
- check old BAP connections. Especially if you didn't get a plug and play BAP.
- make sure the injectors/fuel rails are in nice and tight and not leaking
 

FordGT08

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What supercharger did you have on before you removed it and what tune?

You should have been able to simply program your vehicle to "Return to Stock" once you removed your other supercharger.

I'm not sure but I BELIEVE the 2011 blower is the same as your other one aside from the paint.

I would speak to whoever tuned your vehicle when you bought the aftermarket blower and get a stock tune back from them. There's no telling what the Ford techs did to your ecu.

If you return the vehicle back to stock from the aftermarket tune and you're still idling high I would suspect you have a vacuum leak somewhere... too much air getting into the system.

I had a Whipple on the car with a lethal performance custom tune. I flashed over the stock tune with my sct handheld after returning it to stock.

I've double checked everything and cannot find a leak. It's extremely frustrating at this point.
 

FordGT08

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Hmmm....

From what I understand, the superchargers are the same except the colors. The early models are black and the later models are gray. The supercharger should not be the cause unless it is damaged.

These are in no particular order but I would...

- Look for vacuum leak.
- do idle relearn
- did you transfer over the dowels and rubber gasket from the supercharger and throttle body
- make sure 02 sensors are tight and plugged in
- Make sure everything is plugged back in. I had a clip break on my TB that would cause the connection to go in and out. I got a new connector and repinned it and it fixed the problem.
- check old BAP connections. Especially if you didn't get a plug and play BAP.
- make sure the injectors/fuel rails are in nice and tight and not leaking

I was under that same assumption.

I will check everything again to make sure I didn't miss anything.
 

NightRide

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I bet 100 dollars it's the tune or tb, blowers are exactly the same. Might have to pay for a dyno tune to get it running right. Plus a shop will be able to diagnose the problem right away while it's in front of them. Forget about ford being able to fix it.
 

FordGT08

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I bet 100 dollars it's the tune or tb, blowers are exactly the same. Might have to pay for a dyno tune to get it running right. Plus a shop will be able to diagnose the problem right away while it's in front of them. Forget about ford being able to fix it.

I couldn't imagine it being the throttle body. The thing had about 15k miles on it but it's always a possibility. I plan on selling it so that would suck if I had to get a tune because I sold my handheld tuner.
 

Joewee500

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Check the voltage going to the TB. I don't see how that could have changed but it's worth a shot. I had to swap voltage back and forth between tunes when I had the KB 75. If I didn't swap voltages it would idle like you describe. 1500-2000.
 

ZOMBEAST

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Maybe you need to do a KAM reset as mentioned above. It's a procedure to totally drain power from the PCM so it can relearn idle characteristics.

Stock upper pulley back on?

Also, the P1000 means you've not driven the car long enough at certain rpms for the O2 sensors.
 

FordGT08

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Check the voltage going to the TB. I don't see how that could have changed but it's worth a shot. I had to swap voltage back and forth between tunes when I had the KB 75. If I didn't swap voltages it would idle like you describe. 1500-2000.

Did you have to swap voltage by tune or is there another way?
 

FordGT08

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Maybe you need to do a KAM reset as mentioned above. It's a procedure to totally drain power from the PCM so it can relearn idle characteristics.

Stock upper pulley back on?

Also, the P1000 means you've not driven the car long enough at certain rpms for the O2 sensors.

You do the KAM reset by disconnecting the battery for about 20-30 min?

Yes it has stock upper pulley.
 

ZOMBEAST

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You do the KAM reset by disconnecting the battery for about 20-30 min?

Yes it has stock upper pulley.

Got this from another site:

It is very important that anyone who loads in a new calibration file, fuel pump, MAF Sensor or throttle body (no matter what TB) resets the "keep alive memory".. especially but not limitted to the 2010 -2011's

resetting "KAM" in these cars means first disconnecting the negative battery cable then turn on the head light switch. Do this for at least 20 minutes with the head lights turned on
(head lights on because the power that is stored in the PCM goes to the head lights)

Then turn head lights off after 20 minutes and reconnect negative cable. start car,
do not touch gas pedal or turn steering wheel and make sure the A/C and heat is off and let the car idle for at least 2 minutes.. an erratic idle is not abnormal when doing this procedure seeing as how the car is searching for an idle.

After the car learns its idle it should be fine moving forward. Then you can/should turn on the AC for a min for the computer to adjust to that change and into gear (if automatic) Then take it out for normal average driving to complete the process and allow the proper time for the computer to go through it's adaptation (usually 50 or so miles)


http://stangsunited.com/showthread....ive-Memory-quot-when-doing-mods-to-your-Ford&
 

SCGallo2

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Check these vacuum line connections that are not used with a Whipple but are used on the stock s/c. One line goes to the intake tube and the other goes to the passenger side of the s/c (this side may have a plug in it).

Boost bypass valve vacuum lines.jpg
 

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